TheSamba.com Forums
 
  View original topic: First 40HP Motor have Questions? "Valves, timing etc...
low64 Fri Nov 05, 2004 2:38 pm

Just picked up a new ride with a 40Horse...

I've never had a beetle with anything other than a 1600... I have a few Questions about 40Horse and info would really be appreciated...

:arrow: Here is the Engine Code D212548X is it a 1200??

:arrow:I adjusted the Valves today to .008 I think they might have been adjusted to .006 before.. According to my book 40HP motors with a nut and washer on the the rockers are long studs and should be adjusted to .008... Its this right?? I did notice a very slight power loss

:arrow: What should set the timing be set too..

EverettB Fri Nov 05, 2004 3:43 pm

D engines are 1200s. The X on the end indicates a factory/dealer replacement case though but it is probably still a 1200.

Yes, long rocker studs mean .008. A nut and washer doesn't indicate this though. This thread http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=82918 details how to determine if you have long studs.

Timing - Do you have the stock distributor too?

low64 Fri Nov 05, 2004 4:13 pm

It's Stock but I'm not sure if its the right one for this motor...

I'm second guessing my self now about the long studs... I'm going to go out in a little a check...

low64 Fri Nov 05, 2004 4:14 pm

How far out the back of the head would they come??

EverettB Fri Nov 05, 2004 4:35 pm

Short studs are flush with the head according to that thread.

gerg Fri Nov 05, 2004 5:00 pm

Stick your fingr up between any cylinder's push rod tubes and feel if there is a stud coming off of the landing (surface where outer ends of push rod tubes seat on head) going towards the engine block like 2" or so. If you push your finger as far upwards as you can without feeling a stud then you are not long stud. The studs run parallel to the push rod tubes. There are really easy to install press in threaded seats that use bolts instead of the long studs. Getting the old studs out is the hardest part.

low64 Fri Nov 05, 2004 8:56 pm

That clears things up a bit and explains why I had some really weak power today..

On one head the studs are flush on the back on the other side I feel it coming out just an 1/8 of an inch....

I guess being an Exchange motor they did things kinda weird on this one....

Going to readjust the valves in the morning and hopfully that makes a Difference.....

bill may Sat Nov 06, 2004 4:44 pm

.008 intake .012 exhaust until nov.64 chassis # 115 429 385 engine # 9205700 it is .004 int. and exhaust since working at dealership late 60's and 70's i always set them at .006"

low64 Sun Nov 07, 2004 9:05 am

Well its been two steps forward and now one step back... I readjusted the the valves and their pretty right... The backs of the adjusters are pretty worn so its kind of made it a bitch...

I have a Factory Rebuilt 30Pict-2 which I've put and now leaks so I'm going to throw back on the other 28Pict and see where it goes...

bill may Sun Nov 07, 2004 4:02 pm

if the 30pict-2 leaks try retightening the bowl screws and stuff to see if it stops leaking.. i prefer the 30pict-1 (67 carb) as opposed to the 68-2

low64 Sun Nov 07, 2004 4:31 pm

I'm not big on the the 30PICT-2 Either..... I think its jetted too big for a 1200 it was smoking like crazy "Black Smoke"....

I ended up putting back on the 28Pict...



Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group