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  View original topic: Storing a car
Double A Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:31 pm

I'm planning on storing my car for the winter next week. Besides fuel stabilizer and taking out my battery is there anything else I should think about doing to it? Car is stored inside a non heated garage.

56_in_714 Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:34 pm

http://thebugshop.org/goresto.htm
Scroll down till you see "Page 22"

Miguel Arroyo Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:35 pm

Hi, hope the following helps.

You probably know all this but I rather repeat it than risk you forgetting it. If it was my car I would:

1. Put a can of fuel stabilizer in the tank. Fill the tank with premium fuel. run engine for 10 to 15 minutes to make sure the fuel stabilizer makes it all the way to the carburator. Top off the fuel.
2. Change the engine oil
3. Change the gear oil
4. Replace the brake fluid starting at the furthest wheel and finishing with the front left.
5. Grease the front beam
6. Change the oil in the air filter if you have the stock one
7. Adjust the valves
8. Do a full tune up. New plugs, point, fuel filter, rotor, cap, etc.
9. Replace the rubber fuel lines.
10. Clean the engine compartment
11. Clean the underside of the car
12. Inflate all tires to the maximun recomended on the side walls.
13. Fully detail the car, including a top quality wax job and dressing of all plastic and rubber parts. Park car inside of garage.
14. Jack the car so the weight is not held by the tires.
15. Remove each plug and pour in about 1 to 2 ounces of regular engine oil. Using a wrench or the starter (remove coil cable to distributor since you do not want the engine to start) rotate the engine a few revs to get the oil on all upper portions of the cilinder head.
16. Put steel wool on the exhaust tip. Put a piece of platic also at the end beld in place with a rubber band. Prevents critters from nesting in your exhaust.
15. Using a large plastic bag put it over the fan assy and air filter inlet to prevent critters making it in that route.
16. Make sure all the hoses in the heating system are in good shape and connected at the ends. Metal ones are better to prevent animals from comming in.
17. Remove the battery. Clean area, if you find rust treat it with POR 15 or equivalent. Top of the battery cells and store battery in a cool dry place (above freezing).
18. Get 3 platic containers. Fill with cedar shavings, then put in trunk, cab, and engine compartment.
19. Get 2 damp rid. Put one in the trunk and another in the cab.
20. Close the doors, trunk, and lid. But do not fully compress the rubber. This is specially important with the doors and pop out windows. Note: Dress all rubber gaskets.
21. Get a sheet of plastic and lay below your car. This prevents moisture that comes up thru the slab from causing any rust in your car.
22. Get a breathable cover and cover your car.
23. Check the damp rid and cedar shavings at least every two weeks and replace as needed.

The above may sound excessive but your car will last longer and it will be very easy to get back on the road come spring. By the way to get back on the road i would change the oil again, put tire pressure back to normal, re-install the battery, remove the steel wool and plastic bags, remove damp rid and cedar containers, and wash & wax again.

Good luck.

Double A Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:44 pm

Thank you, Looks like I will have some things to keep me busy

bill may Thu Nov 11, 2004 12:52 pm

rather than"adjust valves/rocker arms" remove the rocker arm assembly to take load off of valve springs and do the valve gap shuffle in the spring. in the early 70's the vintage vw club of america stated " more than one vw is called a chuffle of vw's" why then is vw trends having people come up with a name for a group of vw's when the correct name is a chuffle of beetles(or busses or ghias or etc)???

chickengeorge Thu Nov 11, 2004 1:10 pm

[quote="bill may"]rather than"adjust valves/rocker arms" remove the rocker arm assembly to take load off of valve springs and do the valve gap shuffle in the spring.[quote]

I agree.

Glenn Thu Nov 11, 2004 1:21 pm

I put mine away for 4 months here what I do.

1) Add Sta-Bil to fuel and run for 10 minutes
2) Over inflate tire by 15psi to eliminate flat spots
3) Disconnect battery
4) Plug exhaust to prevent mice from making nests
5) Leave ashtray and glove box open to prevent mice from making nests
6) Leave window open slightly to prevent moisture buildup
7) Place small dish of moth balls inside... mice again

Once a month I crank the engine until I get oil pressure. This keeps the engine lubricated, prevents the rings from freezing in the cylinders and opens and closes the valves and prevents the springs from sitting in one position too long.

If you plan on storing it longer, then there's alot more to be done.

jfpvw Thu Nov 11, 2004 1:31 pm

glenn, about how many rotations does it take until you get oil pressure?

Glenn Thu Nov 11, 2004 1:32 pm

jfpvw wrote: glenn, about how many rotations does it take until you get oil pressure?

Never bothered to count. I have a mechanical gauge and usually takes a few seconds. I'll click it for a few time before I let it crank.

my59 Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:18 pm

What they said, plus chock the wheels and dont set the hand brake- the shoes can freeze to the drums.

Glenn Thu Nov 11, 2004 6:30 pm

my59 wrote: What they said, plus chock the wheels and dont set the hand brake- the shoes can freeze to the drums.

Very true... i never use the e-brake when it's parked in the garage.

Miguel Arroyo Fri Nov 12, 2004 5:36 am

Yes, I forgot about not using the e-brake. I will add it to my list. Here in Florida I do not use it for the winters, however when I have gone to long term work assigments out of the state I have basically done all the items on the list. Thanks.



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