TheSamba.com :: View topic - '79 vert: Good Resoration Book/Video/? +Bonus questions!

Sun Nov 28, 2004 4:00 pm

So, I bought this '79 vert. PO started a restoration on it, but did not finish. Unfortunately, he took a lot of little parts and do-dads off of the car. Some are missing and some aren't. However, when I order new parts, I haven't a clue where they go or if I even need them. For example, ordering a deluxe rubber kit that includes things like window wedges. Heck if I know where they go. Seeing things like aluminum mounting strips in catalogs. Don't know if I need them -doesn't look like I have them. My doors are completely minus any rubber. Obviously, this is my first vert (bug even), so I'm basically clueless. Need a good resource. Already have Chilton's, Idiot Book and orig owners manual. Those aren't cutting it. Ideas?

Thanks,
DeMinimis
PS: Have these two "y" shaped tubes with a ton of holes drilled into them. They have insulating covers. What the heck are they and where the heck to they go? I'm guessing some sort of heat exchange as they have a flap (well, one still does anyway). Also, what controls the cables to the driver's and passenger's rocker panel heat vents? Nothing I do seems to make them move (getting heat out of passenger side, but not driver's side and no heat coming through any of the defroster vents (just cold air)). Just discoverd the wiper motor doesn't work. Tell me it will all be worth it in the long run.

Sun Nov 28, 2004 4:59 pm

Best money you will ever spend will be the Bentely manual for your model. A Volt Ohm Meter will pay for itself in short order also. On sale at Sears right now for $10.

Try finding a restoration site where someone has completely restored one. Loads of help. Glenn with his 74 and Blakely with his 65 come to mind. I am sure there are others out there.

BTW those are the tubes that channel heat from the rear where it comes from to the front where you want it. You want them to be all they can be.

I would be buying my german window and door seals from oeveedub and bus depot if I were you. They will really fit if you buy the german stuff. Sometimes it costs more to do it right, but you only have to do it once.

Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:09 am

Pick up a catalog from Mid America or Wolfsburg West. Their drawings usually are pretty clear where all the rubber goes. As for the kits, sometimes they are designed for multiple year applications, there may be things in it you have no use for.

Use the catalogs like I mentioned and they'll get you if not all, at least 95% there. Pick up a digital camera and next time you attend a show, or see a car on the road like yours, shoot alot of detail pics. You'll learn alot.

-jeffrey

Mon Nov 29, 2004 7:37 am

Having those tubes in place will help channel the heat either to the foot wells under the rear seat, or up to the front foot wells and the defroster. In combination with the electric fan, the defroster works really well. You also have a couple vent controllers on the dash that will help direct the heat toward you or up to the defroster.

It's been a real long time since I messed with this so I may be off but you have two cable controllers in between the front seats, one controls the amount of heat, or the valves directly on the heater boxes, the second controls the two valves under the seat which will direct the heat to either the foot wells under the rear seat, or up to the front foot wells and the defroster.

If you are only getting heat to one side, then check the valve on the corresponding heater box and make sure it's operating properly. Make sure everything is connected properly and sealed. It doesn't need to be air tight but the tighter the better. Make sure the valves completely close when in the off position or the heater will always be on. A little graphite lube in the tubes won't hurt. Although WD40 will help loosen things up, it's basically a solvent and will eventually dissipate. Graphite works best.

One last thing, whilst the motor is idling, it only generates a little airflow into the cabin, enough to start warming things up a bit, but not like the airflow in contemporary cars. The electric fan on in the dash helps speed things up a bit, specially in the defroster. There are small tubes [1”?] that run from the heater channels down in the front foot wells up to heat exchanger behind the dash. Make sure those are present and hooked up as well. I’ve never had to mess with anything forward of these tubes so I can’t give you any clues to the ins and outs of the heat exchanger.

Good luck, and yes, it’ll be all worth it when you are done. Take your time, use the best parts available, no shortcuts and it’ll all pay off in the long run.

jeffrey

Mon Nov 29, 2004 2:10 pm

Hi all, thanks for the OE Veedub recomendation. Phew, that door/window kit isn't exactly cheap at $800+. Now, Cip1 has a kit (seems a little more complete) for $479. That $400 difference is a big one when one is just a lowly government employee. Do you all think I'd be flushing my money down the drain if I went with the Cip1 kit? Talked with both vendors. I think the Cip1 would be fine, but you all have the experience here.

Thanks again,
DeMinimis

Mon Nov 29, 2004 3:19 pm

Not to discount the product provided by OE VeeDub but check out both Westcoast Metric and Wolfsburg West

http://www.westcoastmetric.com/
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/

Both produce a product far superior than that of CIP1 and Mid America Motorworks.

-jeffrey

Mon Nov 29, 2004 4:07 pm

BINGO! Not too much more than cip1 AND and lifetime guarantee. Thanks, West Coast Metric it is. Ok, back to work!

DeMinimis