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  View original topic: Ignition Housing Swap
Air-Cooled Head Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:31 am

So my ignition switch is shot, and I've about given up finding a replacement.
But I don't want to add a switch to a non-original location either.
Can I swap a late switch housing/column like this http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=125026
into my 63 Notch?
Not worried about originallity since the car is pretty modified already. And I don't have a stock steering wheel, so that's not an issue either.

Will this work?

vwfye Tue Jan 11, 2005 11:51 am

i have a 72 steering column and switch in my 64 notch. shouldn't be a problem.

tomnotch Tue Jan 11, 2005 12:58 pm

somewhere in my notchback ramblings on my site, I mentioned how I did this to my '64. I used a '69 bug one (same as a T3 then).

Air-Cooled Head Tue Jan 11, 2005 1:44 pm

Thanks guys! That should make my life easier (I think :? )

EverettB Tue Jan 11, 2005 3:56 pm

Yes, you can swap it in.

What's wrong with your original ignition? I might want to buy it since I;ve good luck repairing them.

fastback1971 Tue Jan 11, 2005 4:05 pm

Watsons street works (www.watsons-streetworks.com)sells an ignition switch with an accesory position that should fit for @ 30 bucks

PIMPPRIDE Tue Jan 11, 2005 5:24 pm

fastback1971 wrote: Watsons street works (www.watsons-streetworks.com)sells an ignition switch with an accesory position that should fit for @ 30 bucks

yes lets all go buy parts from someone that basically calls your car the biggest piece of shit ever engineered in his first sentence LOL :roll:

watsons-streetworks.com wrote: " Almost from the first day that a Beetle drove the roads, VW restoration products were needed "

I doubt they sell any switch that fits the original VW column

Anthony / ISP WEST

Bobnotch Tue Jan 11, 2005 8:43 pm

tomnotch wrote: somewhere in my notchback ramblings on my site, I mentioned how I did this to my '64. I used a '69 bug one (same as a T3 then).

Yeah, I did this to my 65 using a hard to find 71 unit ( 1 year only ign switch :roll: ). My install happened shortly after Tom did his, but I did my upper anchor part differently, and I used the 71 t-3 shaft instead of the earlier parts (used the colapsing column). I guess you guys didn't notice this at the Invasion. :shock: Like Tom, I wanted something reliable, and easy to find replacement parts for. I'll tell you this though, using the late VW column was easier than installing the GM tilt unit that's in my Roadster. :shock:

tomnotch Wed Jan 12, 2005 2:46 am

Bob, mine actually has a bug column tube in it, I *think* its a bug anyway as it was laying around here. I found the early T3 tube was just a tad short........ hmmmmmm, maybe I should update that?

The 69 unit is like a 3 year part, but extremely easy to find as they were in the T3 and bugs and maybe more (?????). I also re-keyed the door locks to match as they were the same sort of blank, one key fits all now.

Another plus is the replacement turn signal switch for a '69 is a "world" part. This means it has the wires and contacts for the side parking lights to work as old school parking lights.

Adventurewagen Wed Jan 12, 2005 10:38 am

ok, so along the same lines. My lock cylinder is cracked and Im missing two tumblers now. I have a 63 notch. Ive read that for the years of 61-67 the ignition switch is the same minus some differences in keys. Ive found 68+ switches and separate lock cylinders, but somewhere somebody mentioned the old style switches were one piece, is this correct? My Bentley hasn't arrived so I can't answer this myself, but if my switch is ok could I replace just the lock cylinder in my 63 with a lock cylinder from a 68 unit or is it actually one unit? Russ had good pictures of his switch repair but it fails to mention the year of the switch?

or

Does anyone know what year bugs had the same ignition switch as the early T3's. Tomnotch mentioned using a 69 beetle switch with an early notch. I could then expand my search.


-----------Question Answered, Thanks Martin at DDB---------------------

Air-Cooled Head Wed Jan 12, 2005 1:18 pm

Bob/Tom, From what you're saying, this is more than "off with the old, on with the new" type operation. Besides the wiring fun, what other forms of surgery must be performed.

Ev, the plastic plug got lost and the whole thing sorta fell apart. (See the story here

I've looked at everything I can find on repairing it, including your instructions in the above post, and Russ's site, and will try to rebuild/repair. I'm just working out "Plan B".

BTW, what does the "P" terminal cn the switch control? In Russ's pictures, there's nothing on "P", buy mine has something attached.
Thanks for the help.

Bobnotch Wed Jan 12, 2005 3:27 pm

Air-Cooled Head wrote: Bob/Tom, From what you're saying, this is more than "off with the old, on with the new" type operation. Besides the wiring fun, what other forms of surgery must be performed.
Thanks for the help.

It's mostly a plug a play deal. The biggest conversion centers around attaching the column head to the dash. On mine, I split the captured nut assembly (the early cars are narrower in spacing), and shimmed my column down a little (the rubber pad also needs to be split unless you use the later style), as it sat a little to high for my taste. I also used the lower tube from my 65, as like Tom mentioned the stock 71 tube was about 3 to 4 inches too short. Both early and late tubes are the same diameter though. The wiring was actually pretty easy, in that you're only using 9 wires, 3 for the ignition (2 large red and 1 large black), and 3 for the turn signals, and 3 for the horn and dimmer control switch (all brown or brown with a white stripe). I think it took me part of a saturday to do the entire swap. :shock: I hope this helps.

Russ Wolfe Wed Jan 12, 2005 5:20 pm

Air-Cooled Head wrote: BTW, what does the "P" terminal cn the switch control? In Russ's pictures, there's nothing on "P", buy mine has something attached.
Thanks for the help.

The "P" is for some countries "Park" lights. When you pull the key out, theat terminal becomes hot. Side marker lights.

tomnotch Thu Jan 13, 2005 12:28 pm

The wiring is a direct swap out, all the connections and color codes are the same.

If the ign. switch doesn't have the "P" wire, you just hook the circut to an always hot fuse. You now have the park lites working when parked and the signal is in a turn position, plus when driving they will light up as a turn light like a Caddy 8)

It really is an extremely easy swap.

Notched Thu Jan 13, 2005 3:27 pm

I'm looking for an ignition switch for my '66 – mine is missing completely. The PO took it out... If you guys find one, let me know.

Air-Cooled Head Mon Feb 07, 2005 5:31 pm

OK, I got started on this project over the weekend.

I pretty much got the old column off, except for 2 wires that I can't seem to detach. Perhaps I need to get the switch out of the housing first?

Which brings me to my question: How do I get the switch out of the housing?!? :oops:
I tried prying in the little slot, but was afraid I'd break something. What is the correct procedure?

EverettB Mon Feb 07, 2005 8:02 pm

Air-Cooled Head wrote: I pretty much got the old column off, except for 2 wires that I can't seem to detach.
The 2 brown wires or? Try following the wires to their ends and un plugging them.

Air-Cooled Head wrote: Which brings me to my question: How do I get the switch out of the housing?!? :oops:
I tried prying in the little slot, but was afraid I'd break something. What is the correct procedure?
What slot? Stick the key in and make sure the key is not in the "locked" position. I insert the key and use it to pull the ignition out. You have unsolder one of the wires from the block at the bottom of the column first.



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