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Sun Jan 23, 2005 4:01 pm

I tried my empi 46mm axle nut tool with a breaker bar and a four foot helper bar with me standing on it. It did not even think about coming off. What is the easy way.

Sun Jan 23, 2005 7:03 pm

Air Tools ? With a Empi type 46mm nut wrench I've had better luck with a Big hammer with sharp blows than longer bar extensions. I'm not sure what your doing but you don't have to remove the Axle nut on Vanagons to remove the brake drum like on the earlier buses.. but you knew that already I'm sure ...

Sun Jan 23, 2005 7:22 pm

I can feel some play in the bearings. thought I might tighten them or repack them. Just finished installing new front bearings and rotors so while I was in the mood Why not do the rear bearings. I started to soak the nuts with liquid wrench. I will soak each day for a week.

Mon Jan 24, 2005 8:18 am

I think you're doing it the easy way. use your oil and keep working it, also make sure you dont have a piece of old cotter pin in there,and of course try not to get any oil on the brake shoes.

Mon Jan 24, 2005 8:19 am

I think you're doing it the easy way. use your oil and keep working it, also make sure you dont have a piece of old cotter pin in there,and of course try not to get any oil on the brake shoes.

Mon Jan 24, 2005 8:38 am

I have found that a little bit of well place heat can help. Use a propane torch to heat the nut so it expands some. Not too much that you heat everything... maybe 10-15 seconds just on the nut.

Mon Jan 24, 2005 5:06 pm

Bar is too short (or you are too svelte!).

Mike's miracle method.

Get adequate tools (3/4" breaker bar, Appropriately sized socket, six (yes, six) foot cheater bar, six-foot length of 1/4" thick 2 1/2" x2 1/2" angle iron).
Drill hole near end of angle iron appropriate for wheel lug (9/16" gives adequate clearance)... not too close to angle or you won't be able to get wrench on nut.

Remove road wheel and support car on jack stand (your side). block both wheels on other side from rolling in either direction.

Put angle-iron bar on one stud and tighten down nut most of the way.

Rotate wheel in direction you wish to turn nut until next lug is close, add a nut to this lug to protect threads, turn wheel until it angle bar is bearing on nut. Tighten nut holding bar to wheel.

IMPORTANT: make certain you are actually turning the nut in the direction to remove/install as appropriate (doh!).

Put socket, breaker bar and cheater on nut. Stand on end of cheater. bounce. Bounce harder. Nut WILL come off.

Tightening is the reverse of removal but with a bar "blueprinted" in length for your mass to achieve pretty close to appropriate torque... For me just standing on the breaker bar (18" 220#) is plenty, then jump to align to next cotter hole.

As to why you are doing this...

Rear axle bearings are not adjustable. If the end-play is excessive (dunno the figure) or they growl then they just have to be replaced.
I just did this so I can testify that it isn't a horrible job (much easier than on the bay-window units) but...

You need a high qulity LARGE snap ring plier.

The half-shaft need not come off but life is easier if you do. If you undo the lower outer bolts on the CVs first, then all the inner bolts, drop the inner end and then do the outer upper bolts you need not rotate the wheel to get it off (and tranny, etc...).
Do yourself a favor and remove the entire housing!
Be careful of the brake backing plate as it likes to stick to the shear stud locating it at the bottom.
Ditto for the brake hyd. line as they tend to corrode.
Back off the brakes before pulling the drum or you may end up buying a new wheel cylinder (DOH!).
A slide hammer makes pulling the hub flange much easier (it isn't on there with Conan force but it shouldn't just slip on/off either).
You don't have to dis-assemble the brakes (just leave them attached to the backing plate.
Use lots of high quality Moly disc-brake axle grease when you assemble. Make certain you thoroughly grease the bearings!
Grease the seal lip before assemly to prevent accidental tearing.

I did it in a half-day in freezing weather (in the driveway) so if you have a garage, use it!

lol

Mike!

Tue Aug 16, 2005 2:40 am

I suppose your tool bar which locks on the lugs prevents the drum from turning by contacting the ground. I have not done this but I would be careful about the forces I applied to the van while it is on the jack since that hub nut is supposed to be at 320?ftlbs, more if rusty. I am still trying to figure out a good way to torque mine since I cannot get a socket thru the wheel to the hub nut with the wheel mounted as Bentley advises.
Any bright ideas? I could take the whole hub into a shop I guess.

Tue Aug 16, 2005 6:00 am

Ryan Keating wrote: I tried my empi 46mm axle nut tool with a breaker bar and a four foot helper bar with me standing on it. It did not even think about coming off. What is the easy way.

Your method will work very nicely if you (or a helper) tap on the axle nut tool with a hammer while you're applying your weight to the four-foot helper bar. Just a few light taps is usually enough to break the nut free this way.

I don't receommend trying this with the vehicle on jackstands - it's way too unstable when you're applying this much torque to that axle.

Tue Aug 16, 2005 6:07 pm

NO JACK STANDS. Do it on the ground!

Yes, heat helps. Adding Liquid Wrench helps. Let it soak. Be sure the whole cotter key is out. Sometimes tightening a bit first helps.

BIG, BAD ASSED Breaker bars are the best!

Do not go the wrong direction. DUH.

Tue Aug 16, 2005 7:20 pm

:D someone above said to "tap" it while someone standa on the bar. That might work, But the two little flanges on the tool are so you can BEAT THE HELL OUT OF IT... With those things, if you don't need a new tool when you are done putting things back together, either they wern't tight to begin with, or you didn't put them back on tight enough.. When you think they are on tight enough, and you are about to put the pin in, stop, get out the hammer and rotate it to the next hole..... :twisted: :twisted:

Tue Aug 16, 2005 7:31 pm

Ericthenorse wrote: :D someone above said to "tap" it while someone standa on the bar. That might work, But the two little flanges on the tool are so you can BEAT THE HELL OUT OF IT... With those things, if you don't need a new tool when you are done putting things back together, either they wern't tight to begin with, or you didn't put them back on tight enough.. When you think they are on tight enough, and you are about to put the pin in, stop, get out the hammer and rotate it to the next hole..... :twisted: :twisted:

Tapping it with enough torque applied works very well, and doesn't risk damaging you or the vehicle.

Beating the hell out of it might work, if you can find someone foolish enough to hold the tool while you try to apply 500-1000 pounds of force with a sledge hammer... :lol:

Sat Aug 20, 2005 10:02 pm

Another way is to buy 2 new nuts, then drill and split the immovable ones. Cheaper than high priced tools for a job that you may never do again. Worked for me.

Sun Aug 21, 2005 1:19 am

Sunbird wrote: Another way is to buy 2 new nuts, then drill and split the immovable ones. Cheaper than high priced tools for a job that you may never do again. Worked for me.
I would rather use the BFH. I think those would be a little hard to drill. More chance for an expensive error. Take longer. Not as much fun. :D
VW does recommend you replace the nuts though! The hammer tool is as cheap as a socket. About $12-20? You can put in on your keychain and tell your friends it is a bottle opener.

Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:02 pm

OK, my turn to remove my rear axle nuts. I have a nice 40" long 1" drive breaker bar, 46mm Impact socket, and 6" extension. I also have an extension piper if needed.

OK now for my first shot. No can do due to 46 mm socket way too big in diameter to fit in the opening of the wheel. I am not sure if there is even a 46mm socket that is small enough to fit in the wheel hole. Seems way too small.

Now I have alloy wheels and not steels. I am thinking the steel wheel would work fine allowing plenty of room. Problem is I have no steel wheels !

No one or the Bentley mention you need to do this work using the steel wheel.

Is this correct or am I out to lunch on this one.

Well I am going to try to find a cheep steel wheel at the pick a part tomorrow.

Sun Feb 01, 2009 9:55 pm

If you post a request for help and the place where you live you may be able to easily score a loaner steel rimmed wheel to use. :)

I'd help but I am on the wrong coast.

Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:29 pm

walrus wrote: Sunbird wrote: Another way is to buy 2 new nuts, then drill and split the immovable ones. Cheaper than high priced tools for a job that you may never do again. Worked for me.
I would rather use the BFH. I think those would be a little hard to drill. More chance for an expensive error. Take longer. Not as much fun. :D
VW does recommend you replace the nuts though! The hammer tool is as cheap as a socket. About $12-20? You can put in on your keychain and tell your friends it is a bottle opener.

Cost me 10 at vee dub parts unlimited.

Real nice. However I thing it would pull your pants down if you were to put it on your keychain, it's pretty heavy....

I recently saw a guy on youtube get a stubborn lug off by using a floor jack to push up on the breaker bar. Any one see/try that one before?

Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:05 pm

If I want to loosen the rear axle nut, I have to put on an old steel rim in order to get the Empi "socket" on the nut. I had a 4-foot solid pipe welded to the Empi tool. I soak the axle nut with Kroil, then heat it, and jump up and down on the breaker bar. Works fine. Pete000, if you live near me (near San Fran), you can come over and borrow my tools.

Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:18 pm

Thanks for the offer. I am near LA though.

I will have to hit the Junk Yard and score a steel wheel this week.

I will post some pictures when I get this thing going...

Sun Feb 01, 2009 11:33 pm

Have a look HERE:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219816

And scuttle down to your local tool rental.

:twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

Best!