TheSamba.com

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 36 IDF Italian mod.

Author: modok
Posted: Today 10:25 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 7

laker wrote:

Im talking about the the idle air bushings

Yes, I understand.
I am not saying it is necessarily wrong, only that in my experience the idle air bleeds do not require changing in most applications.
_________________
Glen Urban

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Do I have to have my case welded to instal 94 mm cylinders

Author: SRP1
Posted: Today 10:18 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 11

the_kid wrote:

Thank you for your sharing of knowledge. I have heard a lot of people going to 1915s and this was the first that I had heard of having to get the case welded. I am sorry my grammar was incorrect I will try to not use texting talk.

Were this probably came from is the older. "H" series and earlier cases are rather thin behind the #3 cylinder. Back in the day when there where allot of these old cases around people wanted to build them into 1915cc engines. What would happen is at times the case cutter would open up a hole right through the back of the case. It had to do with being thin and also core shift in the material.
Also before the advent of the deep set #3 upper stud the case was easily subject to cracking across the back.
So the cure was to weld up the week area prior to machine work to thicken the material as well as add strength.
With the newer cases AS41 etc, they are thicker in the back and come with the upper #3 upper stud deep set from the factory so there's no.need to weld it.

What you should do if you're going to bore for the 94's and use the 10mm studs is have your machinist offset the case savers out a little away from the bore prior to matching so that when the case is bored open it doesn't cut into the side of the case saver and open up an oil leaking fissure. It's also a good idea to instll two case savers (it's like 1 1/2) above the the #3 deep set case saver to keep from opening up a channel down along that deep set hole. Then what you do is just drill the threads out of the added case savers out so the stud can pass through and. thread into the original bottom case saver.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: On and off sputtering during idle and acceleration

Author: rs58rag
Posted: Today 9:55 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 5

as jesse1914 said, also check coil for correct ohms and use wire wheel to clean the years of oxidation from copper spade connectors on + and - on coil. Every connection needs to be clean and snug fitting.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: I broke a valve spring on my MOFOCO heads....

Author: Quokka42
Posted: Today 9:51 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 14

OK, you do that.

The rest of us have seen Roy resurrect the company and lift standards.
_________________
Most of us come to the internet to GAIN information. (I'm not nearly as bright as some folks think I am.) But it turned out that 'expertise' was based on the number of posts a person made rather than their knowledge.
-Bob Hoover

Grammar is important.
Capital letters are the difference between "helping your Uncle Jack off a horse" and "helping your uncle jack off a horse."

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 1915cc hydraulic lifters heads

Author: SRP1
Posted: Today 9:42 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 6

mlotfy wrote:

Hey any issues with keeping deck hight at .065 and the head at 42cc with 40x35.5 valves and a mild round port job

That will be fine, but no more.....
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 36 IDF Italian mod.

Author: laker
Posted: Today 9:33 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 7

miniman82 wrote:

Lol, the Italian Job.

Miniman, the Italian job was a great movie,

I also like your location. LOL!!!

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Tims super stocker head build. Pictures and run video

Author: rs58rag
Posted: Today 9:32 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

jfats ... That should be a good running and very responsive engine build. Had a similar 1776 cc engine w/ same size valves in heads back in 80's. Used 44 idf's w/smaller chokes and jetting (only set of carbs I had at the time). Use to be my daily driver 40 miles one way, this was in a '65 sunroof with 4.12 r/p trans. Very dependable combo with no issues.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 36 IDF Italian mod.

Author: laker
Posted: Today 9:27 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 7

modok wrote:

Ah, ok. I was doing these 8-10 years ago, maybe 10 years of extra crud in the pumps makes a difference eh?
All of my carburetors from alfa romeo and all DRLA and most DHLA dellortos have 190-220 idle airs. I only have ONE set of the 36 IDF left, but no engine small enough to put them on

None of the engines had poor gas mileage, but maybe it is the altitude. I just always though harney was too rash with that, you know, maybe try 160?
I think he was going to try a series of sizes but never completed the project.

Modok you lost me, are you talking about the air correction jets 190-220?

Im talking about the the idle air bushings on the carb body (on this 36 idf's are 2.0 or bigger that is why they require a bigger idle jet to compensate compare to a spanish or usa model that are1.10-1.20)... not the air correction jet on the jet stack.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: I broke a valve spring on my MOFOCO heads....

Author: highroller
Subject: broken spring
Posted: Today 9:20 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 14

Personally I'd stay away from MOFOCO products.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: VIN
Posted: Today 9:16 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

That's because 36 HP engines didn't have doghouse coolers
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Empi 38/38 EGAS carb.

Author: 1641Buggy
Posted: Today 9:10 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 70

jvulich..........
I was able to find a couple 132 main jets but no idle jets so far. I adjusted the choke like you suggested. What does the adjuster screw located below the choke do? I rotated the throttle a couple times and still cant figure out what its for. I will see how it runs with the 132 jets in it tomorrow
Do the A/F screws let in fuel or air on this carb and can I just open up one of them being that they dump into a common plenum?

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: Quokka42
Posted: Today 9:05 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

Well, that's about as close to consensus as you'll see on the Samba once something like cams or oil has been asked!

You're going for a smaller head more suited to what you want, and a cam a bit milder than originally.

SRP's recommendation of the 2242 or similar is going to pretty much give you what you are looking for in combination with the milder heads and you'll find the combo a lot easier to tune and drive when you are done.
_________________
Most of us come to the internet to GAIN information. (I'm not nearly as bright as some folks think I am.) But it turned out that 'expertise' was based on the number of posts a person made rather than their knowledge.
-Bob Hoover

Grammar is important.
Capital letters are the difference between "helping your Uncle Jack off a horse" and "helping your uncle jack off a horse."

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 36 IDF Italian mod.

Author: modok
Posted: Today 8:47 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 7

Ah, ok. I was doing these 8-10 years ago, maybe 10 years of extra crud in the pumps makes a difference eh?
All of my carburetors from alfa romeo and all DRLA and most DHLA dellortos have 190-220 idle airs. I only have ONE set of the 36 IDF left, but no engine small enough to put them on

None of the engines had poor gas mileage, but maybe it is the altitude. I just always though harney was too rash with that, you know, maybe try 160?
I think he was going to try a series of sizes but never completed the project.
_________________
Glen Urban

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: SRP1
Posted: Today 8:38 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

SRP1 wrote:

baxsie wrote:

Thanks again for all the thought and advice that you are putting into your replies. I really appreciate the knowledge flowing over me

I have seen some guesses on RPM, please accept my apologies for not stating my intended redline of 6000. Will probably rev-limit it to lower for everyday driving, but I would like the design to be able to withstand 6000.

I have intentionally not set a HP goal. The reliability and drivability are more important than brute strength. This is why I went with the thickwall 92, balancing, extra oil cooling, standard fan shroud, etc. However, I think a 2085 should be able to be set up for good (even if it is not great) power and still have the reliability and driveability.

I really want to make an engine that will have good power, and also be robust, reliable and have long life. I do not want to stick him with a high maintenance engine that needs special attention and special driving techniques. It does not have to be a racer, but I do want him to be able to merge into traffic safely.

SRP1 wrote:

Well if the compression is going to stay at 8:1, put an Engle FK-44 in it and run CB's 1.3 rockers. Or a Web 110 with stock rockers. It will pull like a mule! . . . Pretty good compromise if you asked me. . .

Assuming that "pull like a mule" means good torque at the low end, I think that may be the first positive comment in this whole thread! Thanks for the great suggestion, and the reasons you like it. Really, thanks.

Your welcome!
You know; based on this last post and now that I know exactly what your intentions are with this build, and who it's for. I would look for a cam that has an advertised duration of around 293*ish a duration @ .050 of around 252* or so, and a lift of around .420" at the cam.

Possibilities would be the CB 2242 (same parts supplier there!) The SLR XV290 or the Engle 120. All these cams are very close to one another.
In any case I would set my compression ratio at 8.5:1 and keep the deck as tight as possible to help control detonation.

These cams will all play well with the lower compression, be easy to tune, offer long service life, and be a little nicer at the gas pump than the larger cams mentioned earlier.
I agree with Modok's comment on the heads too, step those down a notch. Those are a little to hot for what you want.
Sorry for drawing this out, reading your initial build sheet it looked like you wanted an engine that was going to really haul the mail, but after seeing all the details this is more about a high quality performance build that is just a super awesome mellow driver for a 15 year old.
Have fun with it!

I need to correct my above typo, and Modok caught it, Thanks!
Also I think the OP inverted two numbers from 2243 to 2234 which is really small cam.

CB Cam 2242

Adv. Duration 298�
Dur. @ .050" 248�
Lift @ cam .389"
Lift w/1.1:1 Rocker Arms .428"
107 degree lobe centers
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: cb wrist pin weight ?

Author: modok
Posted: Today 8:35 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 1

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=488266&highlight=weight+pin

the longer a pin is the more it weighs
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: cb wrist pin weight ?

Author: esde
Subject: cb wrist pin weight ?
Posted: Today 8:21 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 1

looking at these
http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=1213
the description states that they reduce weight by 92.8 grams (total). Of course it would be too much to answer my emails asking for the actual pin weight..
I have weighed several pins
stock- ranging from 105-110 grams (they may have some crud inside to account for the range)
aa- 110 grams
Mahle- 134 grams !
So CB are roughly 23 grams lighter per pin than what? Mahle? AA and stock are 24 grams lighter than the Mahle pins too! Or are they lighter than stock? Does anyone have a set to weigh for me or notes from their build? The Mahle pistons are a good deal lighter than the AA of the same size, it seems a shame to weigh it back down with a heavy wrist pin.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: RevMaster 049 Heads

Author: CUBA
Posted: Today 8:13 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

Clean and look bullet proof, thats all I'm saying...
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: RevMaster 049 Heads

Author: CUBA
Posted: Today 8:12 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

mark tucker wrote:

hmm I was at nasa last week, and I agree there are lots of guys that cant do squat and then there are some that could work there.I think I could work there....not like it's rocket science or any thing..... but somebodys got to drive that darn thing!!!! I do like the chamber style he has.

Kennedy Space Center...?
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: mark tucker
Posted: Today 8:09 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

Ive not seen a oe 36 dogystyle,Ill keep my eyes open for it.....

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 36 IDF Italian mod.

Author: laker
Posted: Today 8:02 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 7

modok wrote:

These are no doubt the best bang for the $$ out there.
I have two questions.

How did they run before you replaced the idle air bushings? I found they ran fine without having to do this, so I wonder...why?

What is the advantage of the shorter acc pump rather than drilling the ones that come with the carb?

Modok have you measure the idle/air bushings on your on this carbs?
they are so far off on every single set i have run in to.

The only way i could get this carbs to run, my idle jets were in the mid 60's (i believe on set was 64 on one side and on the other was 66...due to the large and not even in the idle/air bushings...the gas mileage was terrible.

That is why i had the idle air bushings made...everything as fas jetting started to fall in to place.

the reason why i went with 050 pump is because of the volume variance from one discharge jet to the other one, we cut one open and saw decay so even you drill the tip the inside passage is all distorted, like i said in the OP, 20 to 40% volume difference., so you on some cases it would stumble and hesitate.

Unless you are lucky and your set of carbs have good discharge passages in the pump jets you should try doing a volume test and see what you end up with.

I tried to modified f50's tube and got them working pretty good but at the end i just wen't with the f11.

This Carbs work fantastic as you know once you know what to do with them on any motor from 1.6 to 1.9.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: Todd66
Posted: Today 7:53 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

I got mine from cip1. They offered new genuine vw tins. Mine fit well.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 36 IDF Italian mod.

Author: miniman82
Posted: Today 7:45 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 7

Lol, the Italian Job.
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mark tucker wrote:

make up your own##s.that way you will still sound like an exspert.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: I broke a valve spring on my MOFOCO heads....

Author: David Wayne
Posted: Today 7:44 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 14

Roy, I referenced "MOFOCO" in the heading of this thread, not to disparage your product, but to indicate I was not dealing with cheap Chinese junk. I had no idea surface rust would have such a destructive affect on springs or I would have replaced them when I had the heads off. These heads were purchased in the summer of 2011 if my info was right, and sat, installed until I got them last Jan. What springs are you putting on your 042's these days?
Dave

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Quick CB Performance Rod installation question

Author: Dale M.
Posted: Today 7:36 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 1

Yes..... If crank is laying flat as when it is assembled in motor, the two rods to right have tangs down and the two rods to left have tangs down..

Dale
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: Quick CB Performance Rod installation question

Author: ErcseRacing
Subject: Quick CB Performance Rod installation question
Posted: Today 7:28 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 1

The directions say to install the rods with the "bearing tangs down". Do I install them the same way as Volkswagen says? In the "Christmas tree" form? Thanks

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: kme9418
Posted: Today 7:26 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

VIN wrote:

Did you try awesome powder coat?
I got all my OEM stuff from him wasn't cheap though

http://www.awesomepowdercoat.com/

^^Here is the link...Clark does great work and has everything you need.
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1969 VW Beetle

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: Glenn
Posted: Today 7:22 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

There's plenty of good used OE tin out there. You just have to look and plan ahead.
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74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Building a 74 mm Stroke by 88 mm bore with 042 or 044 heads?

Author: Danwvw
Posted: Today 7:17 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 307

Things are moving again. The Crank Gear puller finally arrived from So Cal and got a call from the local machine shop today. Taking a stock flywheel in to have it drilled and balanced on the crank! Screwed up did not get the heavy pulley in time to have it on there too. Probably go with the stock pulley for a while! Got Japanese bearings for the Motorola Alternator and it is together with new brushes etc. Taking my pistons and rods in for balancing too. The old stock heads are in the box to get new Single HD Springs, Guides, Valves? etc. Porting etc. Hope the shop has some manifolds to port match! Should I go with 37.5 MM intakes?
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Smokin'!

Author: mark tucker
Posted: Today 7:12 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

sounds like guides but if you heated it a few times it might also be pulling past the rings when there is no pressure to blow it back down,out of round cylinders could also do this somewhat, why does it matter???do you have a skeetteer issue??? just add some bugspray to the oil and spray away!!!

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: RevMaster 049 Heads

Author: mark tucker
Posted: Today 7:07 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

hmm I was at nasa last week, and I agree there are lots of guys that cant do squat and then there are some that could work there.I think I could work there....not like it's rocket science or any thing..... but somebodys got to drive that darn thing!!!! I do like the chamber style he has.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: RevMaster 049 Heads

Author: jfats808
Posted: Today 7:04 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

Darren did my wedgies back some years back. Awesome job. Hes a real smart cat i agree.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: #1 intake valve issue

Author: KombiMarc
Posted: Today 7:04 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 3

Update found set of dual port heads part #311101375d. Assume this is for a type 3. Will these work on a #111xxxxxxcase? Other then getting the proper intake manifold and tins etc? What concerned me is that my heads are flat on the bottom, appears a round gasket would seal jug to head, on the 311 heads the bottom has a recessed area for a gasket that appears to be a single bigger gasket?

Refer to third picture here
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1105676

Just don't want to buy incorrect heads

Thanks
Marc
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Thanks Marc
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: mark tucker
Posted: Today 7:03 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

my new scat shroud did the same,but I did get it at a deal & it was new, thats the only reason it's chrome.
I wont go into names, but I ordered a new shroud for my 356 (36 hp dogy style) 1st it wasent dogy style, 2nd one looks like it was folded in half during the mfg&welding, still awaiting on #3, I first ordered it in early may or feb. sometimes you get what you pay for sometimes you dont. sometimes these big wharehouses are just that. good thing Im just collecting parts slowely.( I might should of asked the manufacture/ brand of it first but these days even that dont do much good) I realy dont know what got into me to buy something I hadent seen & knew nothing about, but it's a fricken shroud.....dont they all come from china???

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Question about axle tube retainer preload?

Author: flemcadiddlehopper
Posted: Today 6:53 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 3

got it. It is easier to judge the preload by twisting the axle tube, rather than using an up and down motion.
Four gasket papers seamed to do the trick.

gordo.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: MotoGreg
Posted: Today 6:44 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

Quote:

Did you try awesome powder coat?
I got all my OEM stuff from him wasn't cheap though

I emailed him about an hour ago, so hopefully I'll hear back tomorrow. If not, then I guess I'll see about the rusty one I found in the classifieds.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: VIN
Posted: Today 6:43 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

Did you try awesome powder coat?
I got all my OEM stuff from him wasn't cheap though
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Smokin'!

Author: bowtiebug
Posted: Today 6:40 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

sounds like valve guide issues
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: MotoGreg
Posted: Today 6:27 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

Did that. Didn't find any OEM.

EDIT: After 10 or so searches using different search words I finally found one. It's rough, but useable.
But I'm still curious about my original question... has anyone else ran into the problem of the aftermarket piece incorrect? Is there an aftermarket version that fits? Yes, I know that obviously all aftermarket tin will require a little modification, so I'm not talking about that minor alteration stuff, what I'm talking about is the square hole being a full inch out of place so that there is no way what so ever it will fit. They sell a bazillion of these things, so what is everyone doing to make it work?
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: Glenn
Posted: Today 6:24 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

MotoGreg wrote:

Quote:

Next time buy all German

Where? Can you direct me to a source for an OEM doghouse firewall tin? I don't have the time to travel the country to swap meets looking for one.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php
_________________
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74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: 1835 best single carb

Author: sandhopper
Subject: 1835 best single carb
Posted: Today 6:16 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 0

I have a 1835 vw in a fiberglass buggy , has a 36 dellorto carb the has a gas leak
Thinking of changing carb to a differnt single , what would be the best for set up for all around driving ? I don't want duals
It seems the dellorto wants to run rich and I have to be on the gas most of the time , no real cruse speed . I'm sure the MPG sucks
Thinking of Zenith if I can find , but what others work ?
Larry

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: MotoGreg
Posted: Today 6:15 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

Quote:

Next time buy all German

Where? Can you direct me to a source for an OEM doghouse firewall tin? I don't have the time to travel the country to swap meets looking for one. I've been looking online for the past half hour. I saw a photo of one, and sure enough, the square hole appears to be about an inch to the side compared to my cheap POS piece... just where it needs to be.

Quote:

Still the best fit hands down

I don't think that's news to anyone. Obviously everyone would love to have an endless supply of perfect condition OEM German parts easily available at the local shop. But since that isn't the case, so where do I get something that actually fits?
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 6:03 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

Whistlebritches wrote:

Baxsie, if your engine builder doesn't already know all of this, or you don't trust his choices, or if it's all up to you to buy parts for him/her to sort out, or he doesn't have time to answer these questions, then I STRONGLY suggest you call a reputable builder who'll take care of you from start to finish. I mean this with total respect.

Are you ready right now to pull the trigger on this? if so, then
make some phone calls to builders like:
Paradise Motorsports or Gary Berg or DRD or Steve Tims or..
Tell them your concerns and they will make you happier than a pig in poop.
They can break the motor in and help tune carbs etc..

Keep on educating yourself man.. I certainly am. Tons of great info here.

X2
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Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Smokin'!

Author: larryvance66
Posted: Today 5:54 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

I have no idea. The bad news is that it's a 1835 with thin walls. I put in new cylinders then dealt with the jetting and heated it pretty good a couple times. It is still a very strong motor for it's size with just a couple baby Webbers and stock everything else as far as I know. It does blow by pretty bad since the overheating issues.
_________________
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: bugguy1967
Posted: Today 5:50 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

Next time buy all German. Still the best fit hands down.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: one side of engine much hotter than the other. going crazy!

Author: john@aircooled.net
Posted: Today 5:45 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 23

a quick check is to swap carbs from side to side and see if the issues moves or stays.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: one side of engine much hotter than the other. going crazy!

Author: RocketA
Posted: Today 5:37 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 23

Slow 1200 wrote:

do the compression test, if you have a valve issue it will probably tell

I won't be able to do the compression test until tomorrow because my buddy borrowed my tester.

I checked my valves today so I could just get into the test tomorrow and found that the exhaust valves on 1, 2, and 4 had tightened from .006 to .003-.004 in just about 400 miles. The intakes on 2, 3, and 4 had opened up to around .008 in the same amount of miles.

I'll still do the test tomorrow but these valve readings are telling me something, right?
_________________
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: POS Scat tin

Author: nextgen
Posted: Today 5:36 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

lucky you didn t buy the chrome fanhousing.

It rusted in the first rain. I have to admit the flaps and all fit on mine.

750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://i451.photobucket.com/albums/qq238/nextgenusa/P1010273.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: JRKman
Posted: Today 5:13 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

I'll just bring it with my other pile that's going to the shop. Might as well.
_________________
1969 Type I
House paint red
Future host of a 1915cc single port with modified 34 pict

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Smokin'!

Author: modok
Posted: Today 5:05 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

How many miles on your valve guides?
_________________
Glen Urban

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 36 IDF Italian mod.

Author: modok
Posted: Today 5:04 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 7

These are no doubt the best bang for the $$ out there.
I have two questions.

How did they run before you replaced the idle air bushings? I found they ran fine without having to do this, so I wonder...why?

What is the advantage of the shorter acc pump rather than drilling the ones that come with the carb?
_________________
Glen Urban

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: Smokin'!

Author: larryvance66
Subject: Smokin'!
Posted: Today 5:04 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

Took the little bug for a ride this Fathers Day and admit I ran her right hard to be sure there was no problem. Been dealing with overheating problems and finally feel like I have it under control after getting the jetting dialed in. This time I noticed some white/blue (not black) smoke coming out the stinger on deceleration. When I would downshift it would smoke not while revving down but more like as it got down to a normal coasting RPM. No smoke while idleing or getting down on it. I'm wondering if this is a sign of anything specific. Worn rings, bad valve guides?? Any help or opinions appreciated. I respect you guys opinions here in the performance forum. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: modok
Posted: Today 4:58 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

Shade-tree method:
Look at the wear marks on the pistons, if none are worn at funny angles then the rods are probably straight, then you wiggle the pistons and gauge how worn the pin bushings are, then check the center main.... less than .001 out-of-round? ok.......it's "probably" good enough. Look at the bearings too for uneven wear.
All this assumes the engine has run for awhile, and from the brown coating on it I'm guessing it did eh?

Proper method.........
Go to the machine shop, bring money
_________________
Glen Urban

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: JRKman
Posted: Today 4:55 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

Jesse1914 wrote:

JRKman wrote:

Jesse1914 wrote:

Take it to your local Vdub shop for inspection. Question...Why a single port 1915?

Why not? For the fun, and I don't have to buy anything.

Just curious, haven't seen it done really. Curious how she turns out. : )

Anyone else done a SP 1915?

Here's a link to where I'll be posting build progress if you want to follow. Gonna be starting the head port work soon.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=557169&highlight=
_________________
1969 Type I
House paint red
Future host of a 1915cc single port with modified 34 pict

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: modok
Posted: Today 4:53 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

Sounds good. I might go for the 2242 cam and somewhere around 8.5-1 cr Never tried that 2234, but it looks awfully tame
_________________
Glen Urban

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: POS Scat tin

Author: MotoGreg
Subject: POS Scat tin
Posted: Today 4:45 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

I got all new shroud and tin from Scat, every piece is from them. There was some minor alterations that had to be done to a few pieces as you'd expect, but what the hell is the deal with the piece that goes across the back of the motor? Has anyone else dealt with this? It doesn't fit the top of the engine case what so ever, not even close. Then, hole for the throttle cable and the square opening for the doghouse exhaust are both in the wrong place... they're both about a full inch too far towards the 3/4 side of the engine!

For the throttle cable I can just drill a new hole in the correct spot. But there is no way to assemble the doghouse exhaust so that it can go through the rear tin. At this point I'm so damn frustrated, I wanted to drop it all off at the powdercoater tomorrow... but it looks like that isn't going to happen now. Do you guys just try to find an OEM VW rear tin piece or what? Has anyone ever been able to use this piece of crap Scat rear tin piece? Help!
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Dropped Valve Guides

Author: Quokka42
Posted: Today 4:43 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 25

Agree with Mark - someone like Roy can give you a really good idea how long they will last.

Certainly worth a few dollars to find out, and a few more if they are repairable - and from your description that is possible.
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Grammar is important.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: RevMaster 049 Heads

Author: MotoGreg
Posted: Today 4:33 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

The ones I pictured above are these... https://www.drdracingheads.com/xcart/DRD-L7-CNC-ported-type1-heads.html

DRD gets the 049 bare castings from Revmaster (without guides installed I would have to assume) and then does his own CNC porting, etc. I believe that he uses this same casting for every level of heads (L3, L5, L6, L7) that he sells, but I'm not positive since I only asked about the L6 and L7. I think he said that he just switched over to the Revmaster castings at the beginning of this year.

On a side note, I've been in the car business since '86 so I'm constantly talking to people about car stuff on a daily basis. Most people don't have a clue... but Darren really knows his shit, after talking with him for a while you begin to realize that he's overqualified for what he does. He's one of those guys who should be working for NASA or something, rather than building VW engines.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: JRKman
Posted: Today 4:33 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

I'm not gonna counterweight it. Won't ever hit above 4.5k rpm and I'm trying to keep it as cheap of a build as possible. If everything checks out to spec, does it look like I can just polish it up with emery cloth?
_________________
1969 Type I
House paint red
Future host of a 1915cc single port with modified 34 pict

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: Whistlebritches
Posted: Today 4:24 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

Baxsie, if your engine builder doesn't already know all of this, or you don't trust his choices, or if it's all up to you to buy parts for him/her to sort out, or he doesn't have time to answer these questions, then I STRONGLY suggest you call a reputable builder who'll take care of you from start to finish. I mean this with total respect.

Are you ready right now to pull the trigger on this? if so, then
make some phone calls to builders like:
Paradise Motorsports or Gary Berg or DRD or Steve Tims or..
Tell them your concerns and they will make you happier than a pig in poop.
They can break the motor in and help tune carbs etc..

Keep on educating yourself man.. I certainly am. Tons of great info here.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Dual kadron stumble under load

Author: alexvw
Posted: Today 4:12 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

HRVW wrote:

Oh yes, before doing the above verify correct dist timing at 7.5 BTDC.

I think it is around 10-12 at idle with it being timed at 30 degrees BTDC at full advance with the vacuum line plugged. Is that OK? I read that once you set your full advance let the idle timing go where it wants. Correct me if I am wrong I am trying anything and everything now!
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: What is the differance in transmissions

Author: insanityranch
Posted: Today 4:09 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

vwracerdave wrote:

A fiberglass Buggy is 400 Lbs. lighter then a Bug that the transaxle was built for. Unless you want to do drag race starts and smoky burnouts, then a stock transaxle with a 4.12 R&P gear should hold up fine.

GOOD TO KNOW

THANK YOU

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 3:46 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

JRKman wrote:

Jesse1914 wrote:

Take it to your local Vdub shop for inspection. Question...Why a single port 1915?

Why not? For the fun, and I don't have to buy anything.

Just curious, haven't seen it done really. Curious how she turns out. : )

Anyone else done a SP 1915?
_________________

Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Dropped Valve Guides

Author: mark tucker
Posted: Today 3:36 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 25

and the non steped guide..... I would atleast send them to roy since he has steped up and told us he sent bare heads, and he has the knohow&equipment to check them out and fix if feazable to do so.or add to his scrap pile. hm rock crusher crushing rocks..... reckon we should of seen it coming ??? karma go's around and gets you down if you have a frown and act like a clown.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: I broke a valve spring on my MOFOCO heads....

Author: cdupuy
Posted: Today 3:29 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 14

As an added service requirement to ANY spring one should BUFF Polish them before use, that avoids stress risers.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: mark tucker
Posted: Today 3:27 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

clean& inspect, then decide what to do, I would add some counterweights to it.......or get a good one that has them .but yes a non counterweighted crank can last a long time.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: JRKman
Posted: Today 3:16 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

Jesse1914 wrote:

Take it to your local Vdub shop for inspection. Question...Why a single port 1915?

Why not? For the fun, and I don't have to buy anything.
_________________
1969 Type I
House paint red
Future host of a 1915cc single port with modified 34 pict

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: baxsie
Posted: Today 3:11 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

So dropping the straight cut gears and going to the dual spring heads, here is where we are:

� DELETE 1399 Straight Cut Cam Gears
� 1525 Eagle Cam Gears (helical)
� 1677 Los Panchito CNC Ported - Dual Spring (40 x 35.5) 94mm bore (each)
� 1684 CB Super Stock Rocker Arm - Complete Kit 1.1:1 Ratio (stock)
� 2234 Eagle Racing Camshafts:

◦

I assume with this more mellow build that it is OK if I stay with the 1311 Stage 1 - 1700lb. 200mm Kennedy Clutch ?
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: What is the differance in transmissions

Author: vwracerdave
Posted: Today 3:04 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

A fiberglass Buggy is 400 Lbs. lighter then a Bug that the transaxle was built for. Unless you want to do drag race starts and smoky burnouts, then a stock transaxle with a 4.12 R&P gear should hold up fine.
_________________
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: New member First build need advice on a 1915 please

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 2:51 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 5

Ok, sounds good. Now we can get somewhere! lol!!!
I run a 1915 and I like it. My current setup is as follows:
AA 94mm p & c's, engle 120 cam ( nice on the freeway and in the higher rpms, lots of hills as u stated I would go a different route. like a 110 or equivelant.) I have a single Weber 40 idf. If I had it to do over I would go dual 40's. I'm running a 009 distributor (because it came with the car and I'm poor, lol) I think I read somewhere that the 010 would be good with my setup, but Glenn would know better than I. Los panchitos heads would be a good choice. My heads have 42 x 37 valves in it. They are too big, don't do it. I have heard nothing but good things about the panchitos heads and most likely will be my next large purchase. I would definately recommend solid shaft rockers. The stockers with the wavy washers don't do so well once you change out your cam to something bigger. I run dual valve springs and would suggest you do the same (some will argue that, but to each there own) Stock crank is fine (69mm) just have it inspected. Take the rods and the crank in to be balanced as a whole. 12lb flywheel. stock clutch, Kolbenschmidt bearings, full flow the case, remote cooler with fan and thermostat. I run the "freeway flyer" trans but I commute 60 miles a day on the freeway. If your doing a lot of hills, take gearing and tire size into consideration as this will effect performance and proper cooling. Build it yourself. take your time. ask questions, you will build the short block more than one time before it makes it to the car so don't let that discourage you. In fact, long block too...lol By doing the build yourself you will save about 500 on just assembly labor. Expect to pay for machining etc.....
_________________

Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: New member First build need advice on a 1915 please

Author: vwracerdave
Posted: Today 2:45 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 5

A fiberglass Buggy is lighter then a Bug and you do not need a huge engine to have fun. You should take a good look at this 1800cc engine build if you want to do it yourself, and stay close to your $1800 budget. This combo will have 25-30 more HP then a stock 1600 and will be plenty for your Buggy, get over 30 MPG, and last many trouble free miles. The AJ engine would be your best to build a performance engine. Use the B engine if you just want a stock 1600. Don't be afraid of dual carbs. You can get better MPG with them and offset their higher cost.

http://www.aircooled.net/1800cc-vw-engine-no-machine-combo/
_________________
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Dropped Valve Guides

Author: roy@mofoco.com
Posted: Today 2:36 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 25

vwracerdave wrote:

RC is in jail.

I would throw those heads in the trash and buy a new set of heads. There Is no way to tell how long they will last after being rebuilt.

It's at least worth $18 to send them to me and I can either fix them or trash them.

In jail huh? Yeah, I still have to finish one of his jobs. He got paid the money from the customer and I am finishing the heads for free.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Dropped Valve Guides

Author: vwracerdave
Posted: Today 2:29 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 25

RC is in jail.

I would throw those heads in the trash and buy a new set of heads. There Is no way to tell how long they will last after being rebuilt.
_________________
2010 Sportsman ET Champion - Mid-America Dragway - Arkansas City, KS
1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK
Featured in Dec. 2001 HOT VW's Magazine page 63

Watch my racing video's http://www.youtube.com/user/okvwracer/videos

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: Quokka42
Posted: Today 2:28 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

As Jesse said, someone here who has run that cam with singles will probably chime in or you could ask CB for advice. From it's specs on paper it looks like it could run singles if you use lightweight lifters and HD aluminium pushrods.

You don't need straight cut gears in any case, just run the cam bearings with double thrust. Straight cuts are only necessary on gigantic engines with ridiculous cams and springs. You know - 600lbs of pressure and lift 50 thou in a fifteenth of a rev. And the sound is really annoying in a street driven vehicle.
_________________
Most of us come to the internet to GAIN information. (I'm not nearly as bright as some folks think I am.) But it turned out that 'expertise' was based on the number of posts a person made rather than their knowledge.
-Bob Hoover

Grammar is important.
Capital letters are the difference between "helping your Uncle Jack off a horse" and "helping your uncle jack off a horse."

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: New member First build need advice on a 1915 please

Author: scooby223
Posted: Today 2:20 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 5

Jesse1914 wrote:

What will be the primary purpose of your motor? Daily Driver? Weekend Warrior?

I would like to put as many miles on it as weather will allow here in Pa.

I would like it to be fun to drive too not just run through the gears and putt putt around. Some power would be nice and It is really hilly around here.

That was just the thing with both quotes I got either person would give me a brake down of parts, I am new and do not want to be taken advantage of I would hope a reputable builder would not do that, however you never know.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Bus stroker motor advice based on parts accumulated: 94x?

Author: KevinMc
Posted: Today 2:11 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 21

Thanks,
K

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 1915cc hydraulic lifters heads

Author: mlotfy
Posted: Today 2:05 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 6

Hey any issues with keeping deck hight at .065 and the head at 42cc with 40x35.5 valves and a mild round port job

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Dropped Valve Guides

Author: baked beetle
Posted: Today 2:03 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 25

/\/\ The most important FACT in this thread.
_________________
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____________________
66' His
57' Theirs
63' Hers
62' Drag Bug - Theirs 13.1 @ 101 mph (GONE)

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 2:03 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

Dual Springs may not be required, but are excellent insurance. I never have personally run HD singles, but Im sure someone has and will chime in...
_________________

Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 2:00 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

Take it to your local Vdub shop for inspection. Question...Why a single port 1915?
_________________

Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: New member First build need advice on a 1915 please

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 1:48 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 5

I very well may be wrong here and please correct me if I am, I think a stock crank can spin up faster than 4500 when balanced. 1915 engine does not mandate a dual carb setup. Sounds like a sales pitch to me....A single carb does work, but MUST be setup right. If you go single, buy a quality HEATED intake. Heated manifold is the key to success with the single carb setups.
(NO EMPI carb!!!) Dual carbs would perform better than a single, but a single is doable.

As for the other quote, seen many an engine cost more than 4500. But what are the specs of that build? hard to say what the better choice is...

What will be the primary purpose of your motor? Daily Driver? Weekend Warrior?
_________________

Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: baxsie
Posted: Today 1:47 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

OK, as a reset to make sure I am reading everything right, here is what I think has been proposed, sticking with CB parts for now:

� 1675 Los Panchito CNC Ported - Single Spring (40 x 35.5) 94mm bore (each)
� 1684 CB Super Stock Rocker Arm - Complete Kit 1.1:1 Ratio (stock)
� 2234 Eagle Racing Camshafts:

◦

Is the "Single Spring" in the head OK, given the 6000 RPM redline? There is a 1677 Dual Spring version available.

If I stay with the single spring, then I can go away from the straight-cut gears, right?
_________________
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"I'm not getting older, I'm getting bitter."

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Bus stroker motor advice based on parts accumulated: 94x?

Author: sactojesse
Subject: Re: Bus stroker motor advice based on parts accumulated: 94x
Posted: Today 1:42 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 21

KevinMc wrote:

sactojesse wrote:

KevinMc wrote:

I will not be convinced on dual carbs; I've tried it both ways, so I'm not interested in that argument

Listen to the experts. I'm no expert, but your Luddite approach, i.e., irrational fear of dual carbs, is compromising your build. If you want all-around driveability, your best bet is with dual IDFs or DRLAs. You will bet better mpg as well.

This is my build, not theirs. I am not normal, so don't worry about me . Interesting you know all about my fear of duals; I've run them more often than not, for many, many miles.

This will not be a street/strip racer. We will eventually be driving this rig to Alaska and back, often to the middle of nowhere out West, with lots of camping and offroading on a regular basis.

A single carb is somewhat restrictive, yes. It moves the power band lower, duals move it up. One carb means no linkage, half the potential for clogged jets and such, less than half the parts, and a super sweet sheathed cable setup, so no clogged or frozen accelerator cables. Driving rough trails for long periods of time, I have had zero flooding issues with a single center mount... just a clogged idle jet once after months of desert dust conditions. Its the only carb setup in 20k miles I've basically never had to screw with from sea level to 10k feet, cold, hot, doesn't matter: absolute reliability. This is of the utmost importance to me, not power.

My apologies. I stand corrected. I had thought your insistence on running a centermount IDF was based on ignorance, as is the case with the vast majority of similar threads I see. However, your logic makes sense to me once you explained it, particularly the part about extensive off-road usage. Please carry on with your "abnormal" build.
_________________
1966 Karmann-Ghia convertible

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Dropped Valve Guides

Author: roy@mofoco.com
Posted: Today 1:01 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 25

Buellistic wrote:

Damn! Yeah, it was probably put together incorrectly in the first place. These were MOFOCO heads. Rock Crusher did the porting work, but the guides came with the heads from the factory I think.

3 out of 4 valve guides literally just fall out of the head into my hands. No scratches on them or anything. I honestly hope that MOFOCO is to blame. Then at least once the machine shop fixes the issue, it wont happen again.

I sold him BARE heads with nothing installed.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: I broke a valve spring on my MOFOCO heads....

Author: roy@mofoco.com
Posted: Today 12:59 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 14

I buy springs from Scat, CB and Pioneer.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 1915 build. Advice needed!

Author: 69bajaguy
Posted: Today 12:55 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 218

I believe the mains are 115.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Is this a good motor to start off with

Author: insanityranch
Posted: Today 12:55 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 1

I have a 68-69 single port motor that according to the book is 1500 53hp(autostick motor)
and a 74-79 1600 duel port 50 hp

How can a 1500 single port motor (53hp) have more HP then a 1600 duel port (50hp)

which is the better motor to build

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Turbo/EFI on a budget NOVEMBER UPDATE!!!!

Author: Steve Arndt
Posted: Today 12:51 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 330

Just checking. I knew you guys knew better considering boost is involved. My sensor is in my filter cover... I only make about 10 Kpa of boost peak through my throttle bodies.

Steve

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 1915 build. Advice needed!

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 12:45 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 218

My brief .02 guess is main circuit jetting. sounds like the idle circuit is good...main comes on around 2500. whats the main jet sizes? maybe go bigger?
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Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: RevMaster 049 Heads

Author: mark tucker
Posted: Today 12:45 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

ok still has the dogleg in the port, not for me.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: New member First build need advice on a 1915 please

Author: Alte Blechdose
Posted: Today 12:43 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 5

http://www.aircooled.net/vw-performance-engines/

I did a 1904 based off AC.nets recommendations . I had previous experience with stock 1776 and 1600 engines but never did a stroker till this one , Turned out good if I say so myself . The number 2 quote if your not gonna do this yourself would be the one to look into . Simplicity would be keeping it stock .

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: Jesse1914
Posted: Today 12:35 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

Whistlebritches wrote:

If you want him to learn about and maintain his engine, don't start him out with all that Mega Squirt Programmable GoobleGobble. I suggest that you keep it simple and go carbs.
EXCELLENT ADVICE!!

This may seem "debbie downer", but at 60mph, that kiddo would be loving life with a stock 1600 with a header. Let him learn to adjust valves, change oil and such.. Then step him up.

Once again....Great Advice!!!

If you choose a ratio rocker cam, make certain your builder sets up the rocker geometry correctly. If you are REALLY wanting a longer lasting valvetrain with your combo, I'd suggest a W120 with 1:1 rockers, single springs and 9:1 comp. Your kiddo would love it.
Agree with this one too, sort of....I am currently running an Engle 120, 9:1 and single springs. Not too fond of the single springs. If your going to do 1:1 rockers, run solid shafts. I break my warpy washer springs regularly. BTW, 9:1 with the 120 cam RUNS LIKE ASS on 87 octane "mexican" fuel. at least mine does. quality premium fuel only here! I would agree with starting on the 1600dp. room to go bigger in the future, room to learn (relatively cheaply).

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Quote:

You have to heat the tips up until they are a straw color... Then quench them in Soy Sauce.

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Do I have to have my case welded to instal 94 mm cylinders

Author: the_kid
Posted: Today 12:34 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 11

I don't know I'm taking it down to the local Vw shop after work to go ahead and bore it

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: What is the differance in transmissions

Author: insanityranch
Posted: Today 12:28 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

SO FAR I AM GETTING THE MESSAGE TO JUST STICK WITH A STOCK TRANS AND IM GOOD FOR THE MOST PART??????

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: What is the differance in transmissions

Author: insanityranch
Subject: Re: What is the differance in transmissions
Posted: Today 12:26 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

vwracerdave wrote:

insanityranch wrote:

Which would be better for a fiberglass buggy with a mostly stock 1600

VW never gave their transaxles a name so none of them mean anything.

With an almost stock 1600 you don't need any fancy gearbox. You don't have enough power to pull a taller gear. All you need is a stock 67-68 swingaxle or stock 69-71 IRS.

There is no such thing as a 'Super Beetle' mainshaft. The 3.78 1st gear mainshaft were also used in regular Bug, Ghia, Thing, Bus and Type III.

Thanks for help
one more thing as I said before 99% town 1% fwy and a dirt rd now and then
HOWEVER I MIGHT WANT TO PUT A HOMEMADE TEAR DROP TRAILER NOW AND THEN, MAYBE 600 LB ??????

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: What is the differance in transmissions

Author: insanityranch
Subject: Re: What is the differance in transmissions
Posted: Today 12:23 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

jfats808 wrote:

insanityranch wrote:

Hello everyone
This may be a dumb question butt!

I the Hot VW I see ads for Transmissions

what is the difference between

SUPPERSTREET AND FREEWAY FLYER ?

Other than $10.00

Which would be better for a fiberglass buggy with a mostly stock 1600

Dont get Dave started. Freeway flyer is advertising nickname( ploy to others) for a 3.88 rp gear box utilizing stock 1st thru 3rd gears ( 3.80/2.06/1.26) and a bus or after market 4th gear of .082 ratio. This unit can have a superdiff, hardened key, steel forks, welded gears etc.

A superstreet unit normally is a stock ratio trans that have steel forks, hardened key on mainshaft, superdiff, welded 3rd and 4th gear hubs utilizing a 3.80 mainshaft, 4.12 RP, 3.8/2.06/1.26/ 0.89 4th.

An upgrade is a superbeetle main shaft which is a 3.78/2.06 combo. It has less teeth making the gears on that mainshaft bigger, equalling "stronger" than an 3.80 counterpart. Lost yet?

A stock engine imo should get a stock trans. 4.37 RP is fine if that guy is never going on the road. If its going on the road id do a 4.12. The whole purpose of these gearings is to try to maintain a given rpm at speed to keep your car running cool. A freeway flyer is not for your combo so dont do it.

lost ......yse
buggy will be for around town....99% 1 % frw maybe a dirt road now and then

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: 1915 build. Advice needed!

Author: 69bajaguy
Posted: Today 11:51 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 218

Now I've got the engine broken in and the carburetors adjusted pretty good with the snail synchrometer. The snail is showing right around 5.5 on all four barrels. The engine idles pretty good, but is still hesitates a lot on acceleration around 2500 rpm. It helps a little to pump the gas pedal a tiny bit whenever it starts hesitating, but it's definitely not drivable right now. Does anybody know what might be causing this hesitation?

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: HPMX not responding

Author: cecil
Posted: Today 11:42 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

For those of you that are familiar with Type 4/914 heads, there is an insulator-spacer between the head and manifold. The gasket on the carb side of the spacer had sucked in and left a small gap. Hope this is the problem.
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: RevMaster 049 Heads

Author: CUBA
Posted: Today 11:36 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 15

RM makes the head and DRD installs the and laps the Vavles?

Good question... How much did the heads cost total?
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Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: RE: Pandora's Box: Want Cam advice for driveability+performance

Author: Whistlebritches
Posted: Today 11:35 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 58

^^ that's some dang good basic info right there

Performance - Engines/Transmissions :: Check out my rod's and crank :P

Author: JRKman
Subject: Check out my rod's and crank :P
Posted: Today 11:29 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 8

What do I need to do to this crank/rod set to be able to run it again? I will be replacing bearings but as far as the actual crank and rods, what do I do? Here's what I'm working with.

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750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1075487.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />

-Josh
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1969 Type I
House paint red
Future host of a 1915cc single port with modified 34 pict