TheSamba.com

Body/Paint :: RE: Binks 7 vs. Harbor Freight : spray guns

Author: Doug C
Posted: Today 3:42 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

I'll be shooting single stage urethane.
OK - if the HF HVLP is a better choice how about this... while doing research I read a brief statement on another forum where someone mentioned switching out the needle and cap in the HF gun for the needle and cap from a Binks Mach1 hvlp gun. Supposedly they are made in the same design. They said it greatly improved atomization and flow. I'd be willing to invest the additional $15 for the needle. I see them on ebay... but I do not see a "cap" there for a Binks Mach1. Anyone heard of this? Anyone have both guns and would be willing to check compatibility?

Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: W1K1
Posted: Today 3:25 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

this is my daily driver, I didn't want to spend another 10 grand on paint and body work like the 2 cars we have in the garage. I drive it and enjoy it, and get to park it wherever I want

750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u45/CDNBullyboy/SQUARE/IMG_1340.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />
_________________
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1973 super
1961 beetle
1965 squareback 1500E

Body/Paint :: RE: Just tried the HF HVLP sprayer.. UPDATED

Author: stu in wichita
Posted: Today 3:07 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 270

I thought this thread had died. I first read it a year or so back and decided to try the HF gun. I'm not novice to painting, but I don't consider myself very talented either. Here's what I experienced with various paints.

2K primer - I thinned it about 30% and was pretty happy with the result. It is real easy to build the paint quickly without runs. It went on a little bit "orange-peely", but I think more thinner and/or a smaller nozzle would help. No matter - I was block sanding the car and most of the primer became dust anyway. I primed and blocked 3-4 times and used the HF gun for all coats.

Single stage urethane paint - This was a solid color (red). I thenk metalics would be another story altogether. The results were similar to the primer, but it leveled out a lot more as it hardened. The orange peel was pretty easy to color sand out. I switched to a conventional gun to shoot some of the larger panels, but now that it's done, it all looks identical.

John Deere Blitz Black - This is one of the hot rodder's favorite satin black paints. It's an old fashioned acrylic enamel that can be shot with or without hardener. It turned out pretty good with about 20% extra thinner. Again, more thinner, smaller tip would be better. I know some guys shoot this stuff reduced to 50%.

Overall, it's a good, cheap way to get some color on a car. If your're willing to experiment with the viscosity and do some sanding and buffing, you can get a pretty good paint job. I'll try it again on my next project.
-Stu

Body/Paint :: RE: Hood / decklid latch modification

Author: PANZERVW
Posted: Today 2:53 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 2

risk wrote:

What about a door holder magnet? you would need a flat striker plate inside, and would have to open the hood by grabbing the edge somewhere..

750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/2507502_lg.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />

I was thinking of using a front hood release and modifying it to the rear deck lid thus eliminating the T handle. Trying to shave of as much as possible before I start to weld the trim holes on the panels.

Body/Paint :: RE: Binks 7 vs. Harbor Freight : spray guns

Author: vaughn bros.
Posted: Today 2:42 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

Years ago when I got a degree in auto body science, we were taught using only Binks No7 guns. They used to be an industry standard, hence being used in colleges around the country and in tons of bodyshops. But that was then, this is now. Great for painting Lacquer.

Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: veedubfreak59
Posted: Today 2:36 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

This is how I found my car. Some would call this patina. I call it rust. That is the OG paint. Well the hood and one corner got resprayed sometime in the early 60s because the woman who owned it rammed something. How is this in any way a good look?
750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://i.imgur.com/rfh5ql.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />

Body/Paint :: RE: Hood / decklid latch modification

Author: risk
Posted: Today 2:26 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 2

What about a door holder magnet? you would need a flat striker plate inside, and would have to open the hood by grabbing the edge somewhere..

750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://www.northerntool.com/images/product/images/2507502_lg.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />

Body/Paint :: RE: Binks 7 vs. Harbor Freight : spray guns

Author: Doug C
Posted: Today 1:24 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

jspbtown wrote:

.....

Something like this would be better:
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-69705.html

It has a 1.4mm tip which is better for your paints/clears

OK that's the one I already have.

Body/Paint :: Dry-Erase Paint

Author: jcmyers
Subject: Dry-Erase Paint
Posted: Today 1:22 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 0

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-Sp...Z5JyLXOtBk

http://www.lowes.com/pd_310290-15765-01027_4294696...les_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

considering taking my sandrail body panels in to be blasted and have them painted with this stuff.

anyone familiar with it or have an idea how well this type of paint holds up?

edit: after reading reviews, i think i will be using the ideapaint brand (though it is more expensive)

Body/Paint :: RE: spot repair

Author: benchracer1
Posted: Today 10:59 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

I resprayed and while not as bad as first time still need for improvement. I was using my iwata lph 400 with the paint mixed 4.1.1. The instructions say up to 1 quart per gallon. At that ratio I was getting major orange peel. I wondered if it might just be trying to shoot acrylic urethane from that gun was not working. I broke ou the devilbiss siphon gun and still had the problem. I added some more reducer and it took care of the problem. How is the best way to determine viscosity for a given gun?

Body/Paint :: RE: Binks 7 vs. Harbor Freight : spray guns

Author: jspbtown
Posted: Today 10:04 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

The nozzles in those guns are both too big for automotive paint (1.8mm and 1.7mm). They would be better for shooting primer.

Something like this would be better:
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-oz-high-volume-low-pressure-gravity-feed-spray-gun-69705.html

It has a 1.4mm tip which is better for your paints/clears

Body/Paint :: Binks 7 vs. Harbor Freight : spray guns

Author: Doug C
Subject: Binks 7 vs. Harbor Freight : spray guns
Posted: Today 9:38 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

Hey guys - I was talking to an old aquaintence of mine who's always done many paint jobs of his own and they always come out looking great. I was telling him I would be painting my own car soon, and one piece of advice he gave me was along the lines of "get yourself a chinese knock-off of the Binks 7 spray gun." (I had told him I was on a tight budget). I don't know anything about the "7" in particular except that it's generally excepted as being a good spray gun and apparently universally excepted in the field. The guy I was talking to said he'd used a Chinese version that was just as good as the real one he has.

Anyway, I already have Harbor Freight's good HVLP (plastic inverted cup on top, purple handle) and had planned to use that to paint my car. However, after hearing this advice I checked out HF's website again and noticed that they offer two guns with the aluminum cups on the bottom that they specifically describe as being "automotive paint spray guns". Does anyone know if either of these are copies of the Binks 7 ? Would it be best to stay with the HVLP one that I already have? Pro's and Con's? Here are the guns -

http://www.harborfreight.com/industrial-paint-spray-gun-43760.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/32-oz-automotiveindustrial-siphon-feed-spray-gun-69708.html

BTW - My compressor is a Central Pneumatic 3HP 21gal unit that works at 115psi. It delivers 3.5scfm @ 90psi or 8.8scfm @ 40psi .

.

Body/Paint :: RE: A Pillar/Wheelhouse Repair

Author: scumerset
Posted: Today 7:20 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 11

My eye is much better, so back to work on the car.

Everything is welded into place. Started with some filler on the wheelhouses, A pillar sections that will be showing after carpet is reinstalled, dash and a section on the left front quarter that I patched last night. One PO had mounted a single mount antennae. Used weld only to fill it. And I did it myself.
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Then I've laid down two layers of filler on the right side.

And one layer on the left, left upper (for the antennae mount holes) and the dash.
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For now I'm gonna block sand and then air sand later this weekend.

Nicked my gas gauge bezel, but that's the extent of latest injuries.
_________________
67 Type 1 : Driving Project born Sep 66

"Brakes, they just slow you down." - Stuart Jones

Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: volksaddict
Posted: Today 5:48 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

Quote:

Half the Tom Tom was bare metal and it still looked better than the respray.

Not!
_________________
Collect the whole set!

Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: pig-pen
Posted: Yesterday 11:56 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

VintageVulture wrote:

asking advice on the samba is, well, kind of a crap shoot at best.

yeah... i kinda got that. I think a repaint makes sense, the rest of the car isnt in too great a shape either, now that I have removed more.

Body/Paint :: Hood / decklid latch modification

Author: PANZERVW
Subject: Hood / decklid latch modification
Posted: Yesterday 11:02 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 2

Anyone know a way to modify the latches on the hood and deck lid of an early Oval?
Trying to shave off the handles and cant figure out hot to make it work...

Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: VintageVulture
Posted: Yesterday 6:44 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

Asking the same price for a rusted " patina " car as a fully restored car, bus, bug, impala, what-have-you, that's the real fad. Seriously, thinking a patina'd out car with a big motor or slammed suspension is full-tilt is fine. It's a sought after look, I built my own bug that way even. No reason to get all panty bunched here. But... There is a huge difference between patina and what the original poster is asking. Patina is original fade, rusted metal through paint that's on surviving factory paint work, and on and on. This bug has numerous paint jobs on top of the factory work. My suggestion is to just make it shine again. We all have our opinions, asking advice on the samba is, well, kind of a crap shoot at best.
_________________
The best things in life aren't Things
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Body/Paint :: RE: Can this be fixed and blended?

Author: swhitcomb
Posted: Yesterday 4:30 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 13

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Painted. Color sanding comes on Friday.
_________________
My 71 Ghia Been in my family since 1980
My 71 Super Driver
Our VW Club in the WV Panhandle PanairVWs.com

Body/Paint :: RE: Rear bumper repair panels?

Author: fla2smoker
Posted: Yesterday 3:13 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 6

Try VW Heritage
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Bumper-bracket...tartRow=20

Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: Doug C
Posted: Yesterday 1:26 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

Doug C wrote:

Paint store can not find .... Stone Grey.

oops, I typed "stone" but meant "Rock".. am sure I had the paint guy search the code L264 Rock Grey. Had it written down for him.

Body/Paint :: RE: Rear bumper repair panels?

Author: cormac
Posted: Yesterday 1:04 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 6

ok but what about England anyone gott a view on English pannel
cheers

Body/Paint :: RE: Metal shape'n and fabrication going on at GAB-FAB

Author: smokeykombi
Posted: Yesterday 12:02 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 101

Hey Danny I am your guy if your still interested! My collar bone is healing nicely and all most back to normal! Are you going to bugorama this weekend? Hopefully we can talk more about this there.

Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: Mike Fisher
Posted: Yesterday 11:23 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

Rock Grey.
_________________
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69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,71,71,71 AT,72,72 AT Parts
56 & 57 oval ragtop $2,500

Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: Doug C
Posted: Yesterday 10:48 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

Paint store can not find Jupiter Grey and/or Stone Grey. The codes both pull up Porsche colors that are no where near the VW colors. Frustrating. Anyway I have the anthracite and mouse grey samples to spray.

Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: Doug C
Posted: Yesterday 8:36 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

Scoops wrote:

Hi Doug, here are those pics. As you can see Rock Grey has a definite green tint...

Thanks for posting those Scoops!! What an awesome looking color and car in general, kudos on your build. This is getting tougher all the time. Right now I'm liking the anthracite, mouse grey and rock grey. I'll lay down samples of all three I guess and go from there.

Body/Paint :: RE: CA water based paint

Author: AlteWagen
Posted: Yesterday 7:46 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

Thanks for the info!! Nice to hear something good about the new systems. I personally have seen the metallic and thats what turned me off about the paint. Maybe the painter did not use the low pressure step as the panels looked "flat".

As for the clears can you still use flattening agents?

I will be doing sections at a time in a "converted garage" for a booth with a hurricane fan pulling out a window and filters in another, will this suffice as an air mover?

Thanks again

Body/Paint :: RE: A Pillar/Wheelhouse Repair

Author: scumerset
Posted: Yesterday 7:12 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 11

Then onto the driver's side.
The wheelhouse repair was about the same, but the hinge on the A pillar was solid. Just the inside of the A pillar towards the front was crusty.
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Forgot to remind my friend to watch the wiring harness and got a little melty on the sheath, but no wiring damage done.

Monday night was eating dinner and rubbed my eye. Ended up getting a metal flake stuck in my cornea. Tuesday morning I went to the doc and the optometrist had to twease it out and us a drill bush to remove the rust. Gonna try to get back into it tonight and get some welds cleaned up and work some body filler. Wash those hands and faces!
_________________
67 Type 1 : Driving Project born Sep 66

"Brakes, they just slow you down." - Stuart Jones

Body/Paint :: RE: A Pillar/Wheelhouse Repair

Author: scumerset
Posted: Yesterday 7:04 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 11

But once the door was on, here's how it hangs...
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Okay here's the worst looking part. Ended with to much of a curve at the bottom. The bottom gap looks, well, bad. Also the fold where the A pillar outer and the wheelhouse skin meet is not so great as it goes towards the bottom.
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_________________
67 Type 1 : Driving Project born Sep 66

"Brakes, they just slow you down." - Stuart Jones

Body/Paint :: RE: A Pillar/Wheelhouse Repair

Author: scumerset
Posted: Yesterday 6:58 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 11

Then I couldn't stop and did the dash.
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The next day we started with the back side plate for the A pillar and then the A pillar. Then onto the wheelhouse skin.
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We also had to make a plate for the underside.
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Made sure to take multiple measurements, but the cut out for the lower hinge rose up as welding/shrinkage was done. In hindsight I wish we would have secured the lower area with welds and left a bit more on the top of the repair panel. I had to use a flat tip to peel down the opening so both hinges would enter the body. Also had to drill out the backing panel to feed the hinge screws in. Ended up about 1/8 inch too high.
_________________
67 Type 1 : Driving Project born Sep 66

"Brakes, they just slow you down." - Stuart Jones

Body/Paint :: RE: A Pillar/Wheelhouse Repair

Author: scumerset
Posted: Yesterday 6:49 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 11

Disclamer! My friend has no formal welding training. Be kind (but honesty is okay).
So Saturday night I disassembled the fenders, took off the doors and removed the gas tank
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First we cut out the right side. I knew it was the worst but was pleased to see the heater channel only had a small blow out.
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The first day we only got about 4 hours in. We had to run to the store to for more cut off discs.
My buddy showed me a few things with his welder. He is using a straight electric model. He made the mistake of leaving it at my house I decided since the heater channel would not be showing, I'd give it a try.
750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1064258.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />
[/img]
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Body/Paint :: RE: Removable rear apron: Karmann Ghia

Author: SoCalJes
Posted: Yesterday 6:16 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 6

I made mine a little different. I kept the bottom fixed so there is no distortion and made the top removable.

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71 Ghia

Just because it did not come that way does not mean it should not have...

Body/Paint :: RE: CA water based paint

Author: 58silvert
Posted: Yesterday 2:51 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 4

I use it everyday, although many of the old school painters do not like it, my personal opinion I think is great , the metallic colors are easy to lay out and the solid colors for vdubs are very easy to blend.

Since you got a new compressor , all you need to get now is a 3 way filter for it. One to trap oil,2nd to trap moisture and the last one is to dry the air I think.

With waterborne paint you absolutely want to make sure the panels are finish with 600grit sand paper, and 1000 grit for blend panels.

Also make sure the panels are clean first with the recommended cleaner for the paint you buy, and finish the panel with prep all spray can to remove any impurities left on the panel. Do not use lacquer thinner to clean the panels, it will bite you in the ass later.

When you clean the panels, you need to use both hands, make sure you wear gloves, the oils from your hands will react with paint. Water and oil don't mix.

After spraying panel with cleaner, with a clean rag on your left hand move one direction, follow by your other hand drying right behind it. Do not smear the cleaner on the panel, also do not let the cleaner dry on the panel, you won't see it at first, but when you apply your clear coat , streaks from the dry cleaner will be visible an there is nothing you can do but wait for it to dry, and start over again.

Once your panels are completely clean, blow it off with low pressure followed with a tacrag. .

I've have use Sherwin Wiiliams, Sikkens, Basf, Glasurit and PPG, they all follow the same procedures, only difference is the products names.

Now for the fun part, laying out your base.

Do not shoot this paint to heavy, it will never dry, and worse yet it will run really easily, it is water. I use the Iwata SuperNova base and clear coat guns. Beautiful guns. They are Hvlp guns, base oat you want to shoot about 25.5 psi. My clear coat I shoot it about 28psi fast and wet.

Lay out you base at a even flow from left to right with a 70% overlap, once you are done with your first pass, you need to dry it with an air mover. ( forgot to mention you need to buy an air mover) this is the best way to dry your paint fast and even. If I remember correctly, the paint it self contains acetone and the air helps it cure.
Continue with your second coat till full coverage is achieve.

If you are shooting a metallic, after complete coverage is achieve, you need to apply an orientation coat. You do this by lowering your air pressure to about 15psi, pull back about 12" from the panel and kind of mist the paint over the panel to have the flakes lay out even and give you that pop once you clear.

Forgot to mention, you need a 1.3 fluid tip on your gun for waterborne. Anything bigger, the paint gets to wet.

It is very important that each coat is completely dry before you apply the next.
I use a laser thermometer to check this. First point your thermometer to a panel you are not painting, your shot panel should be at the same temp once the paint is dry to apply more coats.

Once this is all done, tac rag and apply your clear. If you are painting at home, I recommend Hpc21 clear from sherwin Williams , or Ch800 from Ppg.
This clears are amazing, they air dry in 10 minutes, ready to buff in 20 no heat need it.

Hope this helps a bit.
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Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: Scoops
Posted: Yesterday 12:37 am (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

Hi Doug, here are those pics. As you can see Rock Grey has a definite green tint...

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750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i257/tonywalters/TnyCb2048.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />

750){ this.height = Math.round((750/this.width)*this.height); this.width = 750; }" onclick="javascript:window.open('http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i257/tonywalters/mike4.jpg','','scrollbars=1,toolbar=0,resizable=1,menubar=0,directories=0,status=0')" alt="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." title="Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen." />
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Teach him how to fish, and he will sit in a boat and drink beer all day.

Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: Malokin Martin
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 10:21 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

Half the Tom Tom was bare metal and it still looked better than the respray.

Body/Paint :: RE: Just tried the HF HVLP sprayer.. UPDATED

Author: DurocShark
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 9:20 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 270

Nice to see this thread's still going! I'm dubless at the moment, but I was reminded about this thread by a thread on a Saab site.

I've used the HF gray a bunch of times now to spray furniture finishes. I definitely like it better than the blue/black cheaper one.

I was looking at the jar and thinking I could cut one up and use the threaded portion as an adapter for a smaller jar. In my copious spare time... Sigh.
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Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: Doug C
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 7:59 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

Yea I'm not trying to stick to any particular year. The mouse grey has been on my radar too. Fontana I've dismissed as too light for my taste but I'll give it another look also. Thanks for the tips. I'll try to get another couple of samples.

Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: L378
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 6:44 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

I'm assuming by all of this that you're not tied to a grey for a specific year, so I'm going to suggest two for you to look into - a later bug color - fontana grey and one of my favorites - mouse grey -yes, its a bus color but its sharp and its sometimes good to not be tied to a correct stock color. You could go outside the norm with pearl white panels matching the bus combination. Just tossing you an idea or two. Good luck, I'm sure it'll look right whatever color you go with.

Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: Doug C
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 6:01 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

I hear ya'.

It's kind of amazing though, that with so many pictures that gets taken at these 'get togethers' and VW meets - that few pictures get snapped of cars with similar but different paint codes.. for the sole purpose of showing the differences. Of course some would be newly sprayed and some sun faded.. so it still would have it's draw backs I guess.

Anyone care to take a guess at the color I'm looking for ? Anyone got a good shot of Rock Grey L264 they care to share?

Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: abritinthebay
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 5:36 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

pig-pen wrote:

jeez. could you be any ruder?

Oh that was me being nice about that style. It's not specifically aimed at you directly, but at the bizzare faux-patina crowd in general.

Quote:

my car is a shit heap

Nothing wrong with a heap - some terrible cars started life as a heap. My own bus is only a few steps away from being a bit of a heap - but the point is that I know it's condition and I'm trying to improve it. Make it better. Not somehow pretend it's cool and laud it as awesome by preserving the worst parts. That's why I have a problem with the "patina" movement.

Quote:

but you know what, I am going to rub it all back with an angle grinder, slam the car so that it sparks, then torch it for fun. just to annoy you.

Eh, won't annoy me much, it'll more be a waste of your money. But sure...

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Body/Paint :: RE: Removable rear apron: Karmann Ghia

Author: thewreckingsoul
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 4:48 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 6

^Thanks!
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Body/Paint :: RE: Patina - Keep or repaint?

Author: pig-pen
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 4:16 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 30

abritinthebay wrote:

Yes, that's real patina. The BS "patina" that we see at the top here? That's the fad.

It's basically rat-look but not wanting to admit it's a shit-heap. That's the fad. Charging extra because it's beat to hell and has "patina"? That's the fad.

Cars fading in the sun and with some wear? well that's a taste thing. Not the same thing.

jeez. could you be any ruder?

OK, so I called it the wrong thing, and my car is a shit heap, but you know what, I am going to rub it all back with an angle grinder, slam the car so that it sparks, then torch it for fun. just to annoy you.

Body/Paint :: RE: The difference between Jupiter Grey and Anthracite ?

Author: L378
Posted: Tue May 21, 2013 4:08 pm (GMT -7)
Topic Replies: 16

Doug C wrote:

How about this color - anyone know it?

http://53standard.up.seesaa.net/image/569726.jpg

Given that its a 53 standard it very well could be Jupiter, just very washed out in the photo (overexposure) from the sun - weird thing is look at the bumper - is that pearl grey?

or from this thread I started over in the oval forum about beige paint various codes can appear very similar.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5...highlight=
specifically this photo of 2 cars side by side.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/843271.jpg (I did not put the image in so as to not distract from this discussion). to the untrained eye, wouldn't know they are not the same color.

With Jupiter and Anthracite, the formulas show that they are going to be close and neither of the cars you've posted appear to be Jupiter or Anthracite, although it could just be lighting in the case of the 53.

There's also vert only greys and ghia greys as well, so with the original car in question - who knows