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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6405
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 Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 3:42 pm Post subject: Front Beam Photos |
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I need a favour from all of you. Anyone with a digital camera and a loose front beam :
The bolt pattern for the beam where it mounts to the frame changed in mid-69 and I need to establish which bolt pattern I have. What I need is a picture of either the beam, or frame, where the beam bolts to the frame, to establish a visual reference for the bolt pattern. Two of the bolts are in the same place, the other two changed. If anyone can post those pictures here along with the year of bus and the VIN number if possible, I would appreciate it. If this whole thing comes together nicely, we can reference it in a sticky, it will make a handy reference for anyone with a 69 who needs to establish what beam they have, as well as anyone looking at a new beam and needing to identify it. Thanks. |
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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to give a rough idea, here's a snapshot I took tonight, but really I dont think it is of much use as it isnt far back enough to establish scale. If anyone has a beam taken off that they can shoot a pic of, or better yet, some actual dimensions of the bolt pattern, or hey while we're still dreaming, can someone speak up and tell us when the serial number break actually occurred on the line? Or was it spotty? Who knows!
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killswitch
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posts: 38
Location: Atlanta, GA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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Here's a shot of my driver side frame. It's a '73 and the vin is 2332250706. Let me know if you want me to take any measurements.
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steponmebbbboom
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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Nice.
Yes, some horizontal measurements of the bolt spacing would help. Just by looking at those pics I would guess I have the early bolt pattern, the bottom bolt spacing looks a fair bit further in yours. Thanks. |
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killswitch
Samba Member
Joined: December 21, 2004
Posts: 38
Location: Atlanta, GA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:28 pm Post subject: |
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| From center to center, the top holes are 4.75 in. apart and the bottom holes are right at 8 in. |
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 5:39 pm Post subject: |
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thank you!
Anyone have the early bolt pattern measurements? Or photos? |
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jeremyrockjock
Samba Towbar Builder
Joined: January 01, 2002
Posts: 4910
Location: Richmond, Verjinya
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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_________________
Why buy what you can build.
Step away from the fiberglass and no one gets hurt!! |
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
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| Posted: Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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 Well!
Jer, thank you once again.
Now for the final question, anyone got a shot of a late beam cheek? Unless there's a bulge in this spot I dont see why a late beam cant be drilled to match the early pattern, and then we're in bidness. |
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steponmebbbboom
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 10:24 am Post subject: |
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Can we try this again? One more piece to the puzzle.  |
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pyrOman
Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003
Posts: 10141
Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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I though of doing just that to the fatchick beam I installed on my '65 Dormy. Went the cheap easy way and just welded an inch bead into it. If I need to remove the beam, a little grinding will do. Fact is the I had this same beam on my previous bus so I grinded it off and installed it on this one. If you do a search for my pictures you'll find this one and others on it. 
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise. |
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steponmebbbboom
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| Posted: Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:49 pm Post subject: |
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What was keeping you from drilling it, Ivan? Would that not have been easier?
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pyrOman
Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003
Posts: 10141
Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:02 am Post subject: |
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| steponmebbbboom wrote: | | What was keeping you from drilling it, Ivan? Would that not have been easier? |
A few issues. Main one being lack of proper tools at the time. Proof of that is obvious as seen in the pictures how crudely the cuts were made. Not just that but even the welding wasn't done at home. I did the best I got with what I could, managed to get it in place and bolted the top 4 bolts, then "eased" it to my friend the welder for the spots. The next issue which I did look at was that even if drilled, the area where the head of the bolt would go is NOT flat so that would also need some attention, fabrication or some such. Lastly, the beam was a freebie from hub to hub so I was determined to install "it" any way I could. The only costs involded were the brake pads and the turning of the rotors. I already had a fatchick master cylinder.
All that said and done, if I didn't have it and was contemplating on doing it, I'd rather go the correct way and get the early ball joint beam and then add the disc spindles. Again, I did what I did with what I got at the time which was about 10 years ago and have had NO ISSUES whatsoever with this set up. BTW, one thing I "meant to do" but never got around to it was to "re-cover" the inside area where I cut to make it fit the frame. 
I still may go the correct way with an early beam. Then I could go all out, put adjusters on it, narrow it, do all the "goodies" to it, and it would be just a weekend swap! 
But hey, good luck with whatever you end up doing. If you put your mind to it you can get anything done. God knows many times even the so called "experts" have told me "Forget it! It just CAN'T be done!"  To which I go back and rub it in their noses! 
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise. |
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steponmebbbboom
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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| That wraps it all up, Good job guys. |
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Hippie
Samba Tinner
Joined: August 16, 2004
Posts: 1781
Location: Iowa: The Mud State
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| Posted: Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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| pyrOman wrote: | | God knows many times even the so called "experts" have told me "Forget it! It just CAN'T be done!" To which I go back and rub it in their noses! |
True enough.
My dad built a duplicate Winnebago motor home in the early 70's from a delivery truck chassis.
The truck chassis was too short. No problem. He bought an arc welder and taught himself how to weld.
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steponmebbbboom
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Joined: May 01, 2004
Posts: 6405
Location: gone. for good.
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| Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2006 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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with permission:
| Karl wrote: | No, the beams are different where they bolt into the body. The bolt pattern is different. Only 2 of the 4 bolts on each side match the holes.
211 401 061 K 68 to the end of 69.
211 401 061 M 70 and up. For 71 and up with power brakes, you need to also get 211 401 213 mounting. Then VW subbed the beam to part number 211 401 061 N for 70 to the end of 79. Comes with the servo bracket already installed.
Split bus people put on 68/69 beams on 65 to 67 buses and swap spindles to 71's so they have disc brakes. The beams have the same bolt pattern as split buses. 70 and up beams will not bolt in. Some say it raises the front 3", some say it stays the same...... |
and...
| Quote: | You can put a 64-67 beam in a 63/earlier bus with no problems. The only practical difference is that the steering damper attached both end to the beam on the later beam, one end to the beam and one to the bus on the earlier style.
From 1 144 282 AUG63 up to chassi # 215 036 650 SEPT64 the front beams had a inner reamed bushing and a exterior needle bearing bushing on each trailing arm. Before this each trailing arm used two reamed bushings. From chassi # 215 036 651 OCT64 each trailing arm now had two needle bearings. These needle bearings last just about forever if greased regularly every 3,000 miles. Where the reamed earlier bushings ovalize slowly but surely despite regular greasing.
Then you have the wider brake shoes on the bay beams..... |
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