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Super Beetle engine removal-Help
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ricekooker
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:17 am    Post subject: Super Beetle engine removal-Help Reply with quote

I have done some searches but can't find any "how to's" on engine removal only. Does it come out of the bottom only? I thought that the rear section would come out like my bus but it doesn't. I have taken all of the bolts out that I thought held the rear section and it still won't budge. Maybe it's just too crusty? Any help would be appreciated.
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Livens
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never pulled an engine, but everything I have read says it has to drop out of the bottom.
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focuszx3r
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to drop it out of the bottom. There are plenty of good guides out there and in the Bentley manual aswell. I did it my first time in about 2 hours.

First result on Google:

http://www.type2.com/library/engineg/kuhn7.htm
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zenjeep
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

there are three 17mm nuts and 1 17mm bolt that you will have to remove. you have to reach in behind the doghouse on the right side of the engine compartment to loosen the first one. this one is also the bolt that holds the starter on the tranny. next one is above the clutch assembly. this is actually a bolt you have to remove. the other 2 nuts are at the bottom of the engine. make sure you have a jack under the engine just barely supporting the engine. you grab the engine by the doghouse and the exhaust and work the motor towards you. periodically you will have to lower the jack to be able to work it off the tranny spindle. then when free you lower the jack down. now you want to make sure you have disconnected all the wiring from the engine, the back-up switch wiring on the right side, the gas line, the accelerator cable and the heater cables from the engine before you start pulling the engine from the tranny. i think that is all. i am able to remove and install the engine by myself in 30 minutes
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Kelley
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

zenjeep wrote:
i am able to remove and install the engine by myself in 30 minutes


Yep, once you have your routine down, it's easy. Pay attention to the details and order of events, they're important.
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matt175
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

you may have to loosen your dizzy, so you can turn it out of the way of the rear apron, and also your clamps holding your tail pipes on might get in the way.
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Bugorsh
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear apron is bonded to the body where the fenders connect. It can be removed and replaced (usually only done if apron is damaged). It can be made removable using Dzus or similar type connectors, this is usually done by racers who need to pull the engine more often or more quickly. Otherwise, drop it out the bottom like everyone else said.

Jacking the car up high in the rear and or removing a rear wheel will help you get the engine out from under the car once it is removed.
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ricekooker
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2006 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all of the replies, it's nice to have some helpful comments than the "you should already know" ones.
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68IHscout
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This seems easy enough , old thread but the info its worth its weight in gold .
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71beigeSB
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found out my apron was riveted on. Drilled them out & off it came. Made get'n engine out easier as our jack wouldnt get body high enuff.
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

71beigeSB wrote:
Found out my apron was riveted on. Drilled them out & off it came. Made get'n engine out easier as our jack wouldnt get body high enuff.


I found that putting blocks of wood on top of the jack gives great height or if you have an engine hoist you can lift it up with that. I used a fork lift Laughing
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68IHscout
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So how high must the back end be to remove motor from inderneath so it clears?
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

68IHscout wrote:
So how high must the back end be to remove motor from inderneath so it clears?


That depends do you have the shroud on? About 2 1/2 feet - 3 (max) feet with shroud on, 2 feet with it off. This is all approximate as I have never actually measured it.
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RDbugger
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled one off a 74 STD.You have to lift it until 3 holes on the jack stand is showing.Slide the jack stands with 3 holes showing under the rear torsion bar and drop her on them to sit.Makes sure you choke the front wheels and remove all the wire that come from the fire wall to the engine get them out of the way.Probably would be easier to have a removal rear apron modification done it would be a hell lot easier.Support the engine with your jack.After removing the bolts jostle her until you feel her slide down.Slide her down slowly on with your jack not too fast.Just nice and smooth.
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68IHscout
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great , thanks for the info ..
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are fun to watch:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_s7x_etYgs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JgSxzVr0qPc&lis...ature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WZ8oXfKW64k
http://www.justkampers.com/videos/watch/refitting_an_engine
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MAb5uHnXgSU
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jtgh
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

my flash slide show.

installing, for removal play it backwards. with left arrow.


http://ac-vw-remove.com/flash-show/install-the-engine/resized/swf/install%20my%20engine.html

only 2 bolt/nuts, and 2 stud nuts (bottom) hold it in. (cables detached)
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Last edited by jtgh on Fri Apr 27, 2012 3:01 pm; edited 1 time in total
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jtgh
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

video #4 , IS GOOD ! justkampers... you can see he is at 24" clearly.!


i used 24" at tail end of car , today.
no problems. going in.

see my 2x6 board, at the Y on the frame.

key points:
gen pulley off (save key is an envelope)
distributor out.
pull #4 and #2 spark plug caps ,so it dont get cracked.
remove the fuel line first to remove engine (pump to frame head)
when installing put that line on last.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 12:22 pm    Post subject: Rear wheel remove too...I just did it Reply with quote

Reviving an old thread...Sorry.

I just did all that the experts suggested, but my wimpy 2.5 ton jack stands weren't going to give me the 27.5" of lift between the ground and the bottom of the rear apron. I only got @ 22" between the grond and my apron. I could have removed the shroud, carb etc. but there had to be a more smarterer Rolling Eyes way to do this.

So, there I was, Engine down on a jack, resting comfortably with no way to get it out from underneath the car.

Then I saw the post about removing a rear wheel... Voila! slid out from the side with @ 2 " to spare.

New engine will go back in the same way after:

1. Install new rear shroud seal
2. Install new firewall seal (the top one)
3. Install new T/O bearing and Trans main seal
4. Install new busining on T/O Fork (the rebuild kt)
5. Install new rear trans Mounts
6. Install new front trans mount

7. Oh...Clean up the engine bay and paint some POR-15 on the metal to keep it from becoming a rust bucket before starting on #1-#6
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