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top install question
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vmx12vmx12vmx12
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 8:35 pm    Post subject: top install question Reply with quote

Do I need to have a Retaining Strip on the top bow to install a new top to a used but good frame? There is also a retaining strip for the rear of the car, do I need that one?.....The top I bought (from California) came with about a dozen regular pop rivets to install it...Do I not need the large hammer on rivets?

Also, how will I know how much material to use under the header bow.....I don't want the top too tight or loose...

Thanks;

Morgan
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Thingster
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2006 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do need a front strip for the top, but basically any strip of metal can be used as the retainer strip.

As for getting the top right, it's actually pretty easy. You install the top frame on the car in the "up" position. Then attach the top to the loops at the back of the car and then work the top material forward. Once you get it as tight as you like it, cut the top off in front of the header bow and then rivet it all together.

Justin
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bucko
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Where can I get the wide head rivits to install the top to the front piece? I have an NOS top to install, but no rivits, and I'd like to use the "correct" ones. Any vendor carry these?
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vmx12vmx12vmx12
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Convertible Top Rivet Set
$7.70

Part Number: 181871RIV

the thing shop
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe the Thing Shop will sell you their installation CD/video? That would help installing your new top...
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vmx12vmx12vmx12
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assume they will use every possible item they sell to install a top...but I was wondering if these 2 strips are necesary, and what do they do....

also if a regular rivot will suffice or should I get the ones they advertise
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regular rivots won't work. They will poke through the top or tear up the rubber seal on the windshield. The Thing Shop rivets are very easy to use and work just like they are supposed to.
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The top is actually glued to the retaining strip and gives the rivets something to attach to. Without the strip, the rivets wouldn't be able to hold the top in place. The top gets sandwiched between the frame and the strip.

The rear strip prevent the holes in the top from stretching and tearing.
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bucko
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 5:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"The rear strip prevent the holes in the top from stretching and tearing."

What do you mean by "the rear strip"??? I have the metal front strip that as you say is used to "sandwich" the front top material between the frame and front strip, but I don't know what you mean by the "rear strip".
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The rear strip is fitted between the fabric at the back edge of the top. On my old top, the strip came out. On the new top from the Thing Shop, the strip is sewn in place.
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Joe 20
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 10, 2006 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vmx....
The rear strip they are talking about is a metal strip sewn (glued) in the top itself on the back edge of the top where it meets the vehicle. I know the Thing Shop top has one but I'm not sure about other companies tops. I think its only purpose is to keep the rear edge from puckering. You do need the front strip however. Regarding the rivets, standard pop rivets will work just fine. I used them after asking the tech at the Thing Shop who said they'd be ok. Theirs are compression rivets, most people don't have a pop rivet gun so they have to use the "hammered" type. If you're worried about the heads not expanding enough, you can always use the washers made for the rivets. Just my 2 cents worth. Very Happy
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bucko
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 11, 2006 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gotcha. Now I know why I've never seen the rear strip, as it is sewn in as well on my replacement top.

Thanks for the replies.
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dv8
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi guys. Sorry to dig up an old thread, but I was doing a "manual search" (I can never get any results form the search feature..) and this thread clarified lots of stuff for me.

But being anal myself, I just want to clarify something. I have a '74 thing with a ripped top - I recently found a '73 that wasn't in as good of shape body-wise as the '74, but had a very nice top & windows. So I bought it to switch tops and resell.

Then I found that the front sheet metal part of the "good" top was rusted out. So now instead of switching the whole assembly, I have to remove the canvass's to switch.

From reading this thread, I can simply drill out the rivets from each, switch the tops & rerivet them? I have a pop rivet gun, what size is the hole/rivet barrel?

Anybody want another thing?

Thanks for any replies.

Chris
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Woreign
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need these rivets:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Pop rivets won't work very well. They would extend too far inside the top bar and tear up the weather seal.
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kubelmann
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

German Motor Works sells the best quality rear bar.. Bucko has my old OD soft top and it is of the highest quality and has the bar already sewn into the top. I have seen a good number of soft tops installed poorly. I also have a good number of pals who install soft tops with no worry or care and they come out perfect every time. It is a poor idea to istall a soft top without both the front and rear bar and the Thing Shop rivets. At the same time there is a group of expert soft top installers out there that can do it just right as a result of repeated experience. Like me with CVs, brakes, suspension, eshaust, wiper motors and more. After you have performed certain processes repeatedly you have no doubts and can be successful without all the things a novice requires..
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radioman
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2006 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DV8: You must use the proper rivets. Standard pop rivets will not work. Get the real thing from The Thing Shop..........just what Woreign (sp) just posted. And borrow or purchase the video from TTS...it is not perfect but it does show the correct steps in the procedure.
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Joe 20
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well. If standard pop rivets don't/won't work I guess I'll have to take my top off and drill them out and put in the "proper" ones. Very Happy

Like I said, a tech who does the installing at the Thing Shop told me that regular pop rivets work just fine (I did use washers) but most people don't hace a rivet gun so they sell the compression (hammer on) type. I thought 7.70 was a rediculous price for a few rivets.

Speaking of tops, the whole frame, etc. sure is a strange system when you get to looking at it. Does anyone know if it mimics the origional kubelwagen? The old Willys jeep system was a whole lot simpler.

Joe
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