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thom
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2006 10:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you're not up to spending $200 on a stud gun, try this: http://vintagebus.com/howto/dent.html

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Bus Registry
1952 Type 11c
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vdubvr6
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice Thom! now i just need to go out and spend $200 on a welder. Wink
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wcfvw69
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great link Matt! Did you have to shrink any of that metal? If so, did you use a small tip torch and then quinch it with a wet rag?
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My 1970 bus refresh thread- http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=598191&highlight=

1970 Westfalia Bus
1969 Convertible Bug
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coW
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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That larger (it looks larger, anyway) dent along the bottom, would that need to come out more or is this enough to be filled with compound?
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 9:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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So now i am basically welding up any holes, cracks and broken spot welds that need repair. Now is a good time to look it over because over the years problems tend to form with years of use on the old vehicles.

I did straighten the bottom brace that runs on the backside of the panel and rewelded it to the panel. Now that it is all welded i will clean the inside of the rear quarter panel under the tray where the holes were and POR-15 the inside of that to seal up the welds and give that area protection from the elements

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I am welding all of the corners in side and out as the spot welds have broken away from the body.

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Here is the 110v mig i bought. It is a Hobart made in the USA by Miller. I did hook up the gas and i am using .030 wire in it. I also spoiled myself with a new auto darkening helmet. The welder works great and will weld everything i need with out any problems.

Alot of people use a Tig welder or do it the old fashioned way with a torch and rod called "Gas Welding" all really work well but for me it is Mig.
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*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2006 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Now we are getting somewhere. I did go back after the welding was finished and cleaned up all of the welds. I went back and tapped out the remaining low spots and cleaned up the area with acetone to remove any oil or what not from the surface prior to filler.

This is the base filler i will be using. Seeing that it has so many holes to weld i want to be sure the are completely sealed so for this i will be using Duraglas made by USC. This product is a fiberglass based product, it has great adheasion and will not soak up moisture. I will be mixing a small ammount and spreading over the welded areas to make sure all the weld pin holes are completely sealed up. This is a catalyzed product and it does not take a whole lot of cream hardener to get it going. Just remember as with any product like this take some time and make sure to really mix the two parts together.

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I scuffed the entire area with 40 grit paper to give the filler something to hold onto, then as you can see i spread the Duraglas over the welded areas and around the tailight hole to give it a little extra strength. I press the Duraglas into all the welded areas by really pushing hard on the spreader, it does not take alot as you can see and a majority of it will be sanded off prior to the regular filler.

The mixing board is a neat item. When you are done using that sheet you simply tear it off to reveal a fresh sheet..........zero clean up.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Pipo
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Here is the 110v mig i bought. It is a Hobart made in the USA by Miller. I did hook up the gas and i am using .030 wire in it. I also spoiled myself with a new auto darkening helmet. The welder works great and will weld everything i need with out any problems.

Alot of people use a Tig welder or do it the old fashioned way with a torch and rod called "Gas Welding" all really work well but for me it is Mig.[/quote]

Matt
This is a great do it yourself post, thanks for the info. I am looking for a MIG welder on ebay, but not knowing anything about it makes it more difficult. Do you know the difference between the one you show and a gasless MIG welder? What type of gas does it use? Is gas better or easier? I am working on my third bug project, I can do the mechanical work, but I am tired of paying lots of $$$$ for the poor workmanship I get on body work.

Thanks,
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67halifax
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pipo wrote:
This is a great do it yourself post, thanks for the info. I am looking for a MIG welder on ebay, but not knowing anything about it makes it more difficult. Do you know the difference between the one you show and a gasless MIG welder? What type of gas does it use? Is gas better or easier?

The gas it uses is an inert gas to displace the oxygen during welding, to prevent oxidization within the weld.
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2006 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pipo wrote:
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Here is the 110v mig i bought. It is a Hobart made in the USA by Miller. I did hook up the gas and i am using .030 wire in it. I also spoiled myself with a new auto darkening helmet. The welder works great and will weld everything i need with out any problems.

Alot of people use a Tig welder or do it the old fashioned way with a torch and rod called "Gas Welding" all really work well but for me it is Mig.


Matt
This is a great do it yourself post, thanks for the info. I am looking for a MIG welder on ebay, but not knowing anything about it makes it more difficult. Do you know the difference between the one you show and a gasless MIG welder? What type of gas does it use? Is gas better or easier? I am working on my third bug project, I can do the mechanical work, but I am tired of paying lots of $$$$ for the poor workmanship I get on body work.

Thanks,[/quote]
Pipo, basically this welder is set up for both types of wire. The "Flux Core" wire which is used with out the aid of the gas and a "Mild Steel" wire that is set up for gas. The gas is a mix of CO2 and Argon. Both types of wire work well, but most prefer a gas shielded mig because the results are much cleaner with the gas.
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Body Fillers: There are several different brands on the market with names like Z-Grip, Dynalite, Rage and Carbo-Fill to name a few.

Here are examples of the products that i am used to using, now when it comes to filler it really is a matter of personal preferance.

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From L-R;

Evercoat's "Kitty Hair": This product is made up of fiberglass "Hair" and resins. This product is great for adding strength to fiberglass repairs, strengthening weak metal areas. Water proof and very tough. This product is very strong when dry.

Evercoats's "Everglass": This product is similar to Kitty Hair but the "Hair" is much shorter and finer. It works great for fiberglass repairs that need a little strength behind the repair or weak areas in metal prior to filler.

USC's "Duraglas": This is a tough, water resistant fiberglass based product ideal for filling over welded areas prior to regular filler, filling in small holes and for repair of fiberglass. This product is stronger than regular body filler and is good where the metal may be thin or just needs a little extra strength prior to regular filler.

Evercoats' "Rage Xtreme": An excellent body filler. Bonds great, sands easy and goes on almost "Pin Hole" free. A super filler for all around use. I would highly recommend this product.

Evercoats's "Metal glaze" This is a great polyester putty. Ideal for fixing chips, small dings, scratches and other imperfections before and after primer. You will need to primer over this product before any paint goes over the top of it as it may produce blemishes if painted directly on.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sanding Blocks. There are so many shapes and styles of sanding blocks, one for every purpose. Whether you go with a regular "Sticky" type sandpaper or a "Velcro" type, there is a block for you. I have seen Sanding blocks on the market that are made from Wood, Metal, Fiberglass, Plastic, Hard and Foam rubber.

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Here are a few i usually use:
The two on the left use "Velcro" type of sandpaper which means you can go from grit to grit by just peeling the paper off and putting a different piece on. The longer blocks are good for making longer areas straight and flat..

The two in the middle use regular "Sticky" sandpaper. I will use the smaller one to wet sand primer prior to paint as well as flattening out clear to give the painted panels a true "Flat" look.

The two on the left are just different blocks to have when needed. The top one is great for small dings and hard areas to sand and the bottom one is called a "Taco Pad", it uses a full sheet of Velcro D/A paper and is good for curved areas.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Air Tools: If you have a compressor and want to use some air tools, then here are a few that are handy to have around. Many companies sell all sorts of air tools from the inexpensive to the costly.

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Here is an example of some of the basics;
From L-R:
A Hutchins "Air File". I will use this to "Rough in" the area of filler and then switch to a hand sand block to finish it off.

A Hutchins " Dual Action Sander. Great for general sanding.

(TOP) A regular 5" Grinder. Great for smoothing out welds, grinding off small areas of paint, rust and filler. I also use it to put good scratches in the metal prior to body filler so the filler has something to really good to grab onto.

(BOTTOM) An Angle Grinder. great for all sorts of small uses. Will accept all sorts of wire, abrasive and grinding pads as well as cut-off wheels.
_________________
This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2006 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Abrasives:

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As you can see there are all types of abrasives on the market to suit your needs. Everything from sandpaper to cut-off wheels are available to make our lives easier and the repair that much better.
_________________
This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Ok so basically we have scuffed the Duraglas with some 36 grit to give the filler something to bite onto. With my bondo board in hand i spooned out a 4" diameter glob of Rage Extreme onto the board then added about a 1/2" line of blue hardner to it and mixed it completely together until the filler was a light blue shade..........it is very important that the hardner is completely mixed in because it is the chemical reaction that causes the filler to set up. Then i spread the filler onto the panel, i press somewhat hard to make sure the filler gets into the nooks and crannies.

I make sure to cover the areas that need the filler with nice even coats. Remember to spread the filler as smooth as possible because the flatter it is applied the easier it is to sand.

Now it is time to sand. For the first coat of filler i knock it down with 36 grit on my flat block to get the shape roughed in then i will apply a second coat of filler and when its hard i will sand the filler with 80 grit to rough the shape and then finish with 150 grit.

With the block i not only sand up and down and back and forth but i will go at an angle to get the shape i am looking for. Now the high spots will peek through the filler and if they are too high i will gently tap them down.

You are trying to get the body work as straight as possible before the primer goes on.........do not rely on the primer to make it straight, the primer is an aid not a cure.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Now that i am satisfied that the bodywork is straight, it is time for primer.

Here is my gun, it is a Sata KLC with a 1.8 tip in it and instead of a cup i use a PPS system..........this is Sata's version, it works great for primer but i prefer 3M's system as you can spray with the gun upside down and Sata's version you cannot.

This system uses a hard cup with a liner for the material and a lid. You place the liner in the hard cup, pour in your material(in this case it is primer) then attacch the lid and put the set up onto the gun and you are ready to spray...........when finished i have the same set up ready but with a thinner in it to clean out the gun. Simply detach the primer cup add the solvent cup and clean out the gun.

Using nice even patterns i spray 3 coats of primer onto the panel using the manufacture's suggestions on flash times in between coats. For this i am using PPG's NCP 280 grey. I spray one coat, wait 15 minutes then spray another.

Once i have the primer on i use flat black rattle can spray paint to fog on a coat of black onto the primer to aid as a "Guide Coat" when i go to sand the primer it will tell me where the low spot are as the black will stay in those areas and if it is high it will be noticable as well.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Well here is the panel ready to be sanded and the final little things fixed before primer is added again. I put the tailight in to check the fit and all looks great. I still need to hang the decklid and rear apron to get the lines straight ...........................much better than what we had going on in the first place............. Wink

I will post some other tricks soon or if there is something you would like to have explained feel free to ask......... Cool
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are in to Busses then you know that they have areas that are usually rusty including cargo doors and if you are working on an older bus you find that used high hinge panel cargo doors in good shape are getting harder to find or if they are nice they are getting pricey.

I looked to find some non rusty cargo doors but it looks like i will be fixing mine.

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So this is what i have, a typical rusty bottom high hinge cargo door. As you can see it has rotted out both the innerstructure and the outside sheetmetal.............time to fix.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So i decided to check the Pomona Swap Meet to see what i could find. I was looking for either good doors or parts to fix mine. So i actually came across these.

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What i found was a pair of high hinge cargo doors off of a rolled bus. These doors are still wearing the original paint and a perfect for what i need. I also found these lower sections that came from Wolfsburg West, they are good for what i need them for..........i paid $30 for the pair of doors and $20 for the two patch panels.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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The first thing i need to do is to determine where the damage is and how much needs to be cut out. I am going to take about a 3 1/2" slice out of the outside panel and cut halfway through the first cross brace.

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Once i figure out where the bad needs to come off i transfer the measurements to the donor piece adding a 1/4" more so i can trim it to fit nice. Remember always measure, measure, measure then cut. I take my time to drill out the spot weld and separate the metal carefully as to not create any more damage than i need. I am going around the hinge as i will use my hinge because it is in great shape.
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This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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Matt K.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 03, 2006 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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First i take the latch rod out so it does not get cut. Then i drill out the spot welds and cut the bad piece from the inner structure. I did buy an electric die grinder from Harbor Frieght and it works great. The lower hinge support is in the right of the picture and we will be welding it back up nice when the panel goes on.
_________________
This is my 23rd year in the Auto Body/Paint Game!
*Take a look at some of my custom paint: http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n119/mrpaint_2006/ .( NOTE: these are some older jobs but still neat.)
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