Thing resto questions

[wings_n_fins]

Hi all,

I ran across this wierd stud anchor upon disassembly of my 1600cc from my '73 Thing. This recessed stud anchor has got to be a fix done by a machinist, right? Is it okay to leave there, or should I look at getting it fixed so that the threads are closer to the standard stud anchor depth? (The threads on this funny guy start about 1" 3/8 into the case.)

Here's another view, with a shot of a standard stud anchor off to the right.

Also, is this amount of grime and crap found on the piston head normal? On a scale from 1 to 10, 1 being "man, that's clean" and 10 being "that's so gross I just threw up in my mouth a little", what would you rate this as?

_________________
DAVE
'73 Thing
'07 Harley Sportster
'09 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

[iltis74]

That is a deep-studded case. Early cases tended to crack when tension was induced between the top outside #3 head stud and the main case bolt pulling the other way. Sinking the stud was the factories way of reducing that stress. When you see cases welded "behind the #3" this is what they are fighting, though the practice has carried over even onto later cases that don't need it. What can it hurt, you might ask, to have a little extra insurance? The welding carries the possibility of distorting the case, and may require a linebore on a brand new case. Also you'll notice that the factory stud in that hole is longer. If you but a new head stud kit for your case it will include an extra long stud for that hole. So in short yes that is stock and a good thing to have, and leave it.

The piston looks very good, but for the price of new units I wouldn't even consider putting those back in. Just get a new set. And think about making them 90.5s. Have fun.

[wings_n_fins]

Hey, thanks for all the help. I never would have thought that weird stud was supposed to be like that. Go figure.

As far as the pistons go, I've already bought new ones. I'm sticking with stock replacements, but not just on the pistons: I'm trying my hand at a total rebuild.

And thanks for the luck: I'm going to need it!
_________________
DAVE
'73 Thing
'07 Harley Sportster
'09 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

[iltis74]

Here is a link to pulling the oil gallerie plugs for a thorough cleaning. It also goes into full flow, which is one of those things that is probably really nice, but far from neccessary. After you spend all the time cleaning parts, then hot-tanking parts, them cleaning parts again, then soap-and-watering parts just before sealing the case up, it sucks when on the next engine you pull the plugs and realize that after all that work on the first one, a bunch of crap you never even saw may have made a run for the internals. Also with a rebuild you should crank the oil pressure back up to where it should be, and with plugs that are now 30+ years old who can say for sure that they won't seep? Perhaps you already intended doing this, but it seems to be one of those things that doesn't make many rebuild books, and very well should.

http://huelsmann.us/bugman/FilterTech.html

If you don't have a slide hammer another trick to pull them after you have them drilled is to tap them for a small bolt, place a socket over them just big enough for them to fit inside, run the bolt through the socket using a washer if you have to, and as you thread in the bolt it will act as a puller and draw the plug into the socket. Slide hammer is quicker and easier though. Mine is a four pound hammer head on a piece of all-thread. You do what you can.