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need advice-lower ball joints
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kayakwesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 4:21 pm    Post subject: need advice-lower ball joints Reply with quote

I went to get a front end alignment today, and when on the rack i found out the lower joints need replacing...I had the drivers side replaced about 30k miles ago and now it is bad again

is this a job I can perform myself, I don't have a press.

should I buy the extra tools?

it kills me to pay someone to work on the van

i found this link

http://californiavan.com/frontend/80-84lowerballjoints/

so should I buy the tool kit, has anyone else tried this

my skills include swapping out my a/c compressor and dryer, and I can change out CV axles water pumps etc...is this on the same skill level or should I just get the wallet out?
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droogvan
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't buy the tools, go to any Autozone and use their loan-a-tool program. Ball joints are a pain but not worth the money a shop will charge you. I haven't done them on my VW yet but on my previous rides I used a grinder to take the old rivets off and a pickle fork and a 5 or 10 lb sledge to beat the things into submission. There is probably a more scientific way to do these. Crank some tunes, crack a brew and get to it! Another thing, if you're thinking of having a shop do them get a quote on parts. After you see how bad they'll rape you on parts alone you'll be running home to tear into em. Shops have quoted me as high as $90 per ball joint (part only) so I go to NAPA and buy them for $12.
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kayakwesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the fast reply...my local store doesn't have the kits, everything but what I need.

I did go ahead and pay too much,but I ordered MOOG for the van,($55 ordered , the shop had a qoute of $70 which isn't too bad on markup) I just put some MOOG joints in my Jetta , but the Jetta is easy it has 3 bolts

I got my last joint from BusBoys for $20..and now I'm doing it again? Embarassed

I am thinking if these don't come with a grease fitting of getting my tap set out and MAKE THEM have it....this sucks!

should I go ahead and do the uppers also? I know if it ain't broke don't fix, but since I'm already there?

the front end man said they were okay

how long for a first time ball joint repair..2 days?
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Upper ball joints are a simple unbolt and rebolt type of thing. 8MM. allen key on top and a bolt on the bottom. I would replace them if you don't want to go under the van again in a few years. The lowers- I took off the trailing arm and had a machine shop press out the old ones and put the new ones in. They are experienced with vanagon parts and they told me mine were the worst change out they have done. They said the 20 ton press was flexing and could not remove them so they finally had to cut them out with a torch. Check out the general gondition of your front end and consider the help of a professional for the press/install. The whole job can be done in a day. Waiting for the machine shop will take the most time for the job. I also seem to remember that on 2WD vans there is a tack-weld on the lower that has to be ground off and then retack-welded when installed. Good luck
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kayakwesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 6:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what caused the flexing? Did rust "weld" the joint to the arm?

how much labor do you think you saved with the machine shop work?
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes it was rust that siezed the ball joint to the arm. If my front end looked as good as the one pictured in the link I might have considered doing the press job myself. I knew it would be a fight and paid to have my parts pressed in for me. Look over your parts and consider the condition and you can pick a direction- press yourself or pay a machine shop. Remember the tack weld if you do it yourself or pay a machine shop. The job is not difficult other than the pressing and I would not consider paying a pro to do it for me. Good Luck.
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kayakwesty
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 6:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the advice...I have a welder and just finished my hitch....

I'm now thinking of doing it myself and install new tie rod ends , bushings, wheel bearings, upper and lower ball joints, what will cost me in parts, would have been the labor I would have spent ...but the van should drive like a new van

my van looks like the one in the link
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syncrodoka
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 8:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You will wonder why you had not replaced everything sooner. The van will drive just like you have always wanted it to drive. After it is all done go back and get that alignment and you will own a happy camper.
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tclark
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[quote="syncrodoka"]Yes it was rust that siezed the ball joint to the arm. /quote]
I wonder if the shady tree way is do use that battery charger electrolytic
trick
http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html

just fill the 5 gal bucket with the electrolytic dump in the rusted parts wait 24 hrs no more rust
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mr_vanagon
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Based on the tools I've seen available to the do-it-yerselfer, lower ball joints are best done by a shop with a press. The problem is normaly not so much rust as it's the shape of the steering knuckle. The tools you and I can get for cheap won't fit around the curved part near the joint. A shop with a press will have the right mandrel and will make quick work of it.
Just my opinion. This is a good place to spend a couple bucks at the local machine shop.
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