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mattt
Samba Member
Joined: January 20, 2004
Posts: 1143
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 Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 7:40 pm Post subject: Engine install/drop w/ 73 style EGR in place |
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I recently dropped and re-installed a complete engine in a Thing with the 73 style EGR valve in place. The 73 EGR is permanently attached to the intake manifold, unlike the 74 that unbolts with 2 bolts. I got it out & in, but it was a very tight fit with a lot of fighting and cuss words thrown in there for good measure. The problem as I see it is that the EGR inlet pipe on the intake manifold is just begging to hit the decklid latch on the way up and down. How I got in in/out was to have the inlet pipe go down the left side of the decklid latch bracket, and the shaft of the gen. go down the right side of the decklid latch bracket. I removed the pulley off the gen. to make this work. This was of course with a little shift of the engine to the left.
Other than removing the generator and or intake manifold, is there a quick easy way to get the engine in and out??? Maybe I don't know the special technique to make this all happen in a nice manner....or maybe that is just how it is.....??????? |
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suntour
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Joined: November 25, 2004
Posts: 443
Location: Woodinville, WA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:35 pm Post subject: |
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Last time I checked your Thing didn’t have a EGR valve. Did you get another one?
As for your clearance problem I suggest a Sawzall. Works every time!
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76900
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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| Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 8:37 pm Post subject: |
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The one time I had to R&R the engine on a Thing, it was a 73 with the EGR.
What a PITA. I had to remove the distributor and do a lot of twisting and pushing to get it back in.
Good luck.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
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Ian Epperson
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Joined: January 12, 2005
Posts: 2262
Location: Alameda, CA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 11:44 am Post subject: |
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Suntour said "sawzall", but I think grinder is better. 
Seriously. I cut off my decklid latch, tapped a couple of holes, bought an angle bracket, and made my own removable decklid latch.
You can see it here:
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mattt
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Joined: January 20, 2004
Posts: 1143
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| Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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Ian......what is that black painted angle attached to? You mentioned threading some holes, but I see no hardware coming thru the body. Removable latch would definitely help things out!
Glenn.....I'm almost wondering if that is why VW changed the EGR style the next year??? Not for the Thing specifically, but just for overall ease of engine removal on all VW's. Your words sum it up pretty well, twisting, pushing, praying to the VW gods. I was able to do it without removing the dist. but you have to work everything including the dist. thru the engine seal on the way up.
Suntour......not on my Thing, on another that I own. How is your build going? I haven't been by there recently to see it. P-mail me when you get a chance. Still have any of that sheet metal you were selling a while back? |
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Chas223
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Joined: September 08, 2004
Posts: 109
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| Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:10 pm Post subject: |
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| Ian Epperson wrote: |
Suntour said "sawzall", but I think grinder is better.
Seriously. I cut off my decklid latch, tapped a couple of holes, bought an angle bracket, and made my own removable decklid latch.
You can see it here:
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NICE THING!
Chas |
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Ian Epperson
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Joined: January 12, 2005
Posts: 2262
Location: Alameda, CA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:49 pm Post subject: |
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| mattt wrote: |
| Ian......what is that black painted angle attached to? You mentioned threading some holes, but I see no hardware coming thru the body. Removable latch would definitely help things out! |
That rear piece is hollow. With the engine out, I ground off the latch mount and got it pretty flush. If you look at it, you can see where the sheet metal has been doubled up. I drilled holes in it, then tapped to accept some large bolts. I was careful not to tighten it up too much as the threads aren't that strong. I measured up the angle bracket, made some matching holes to mount it, then drilled some holes for the latch. I painted everything, then bolted it all together and adjusted it with the deck lid shut while sitting in the engine compartment. I was a bit concerned that with the engine in place, I wouldn't be able to remove the deck lid rod, but it all clears perfectly.
| Chas223 wrote: |
| NICE THING! |
Thanks!
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Last edited by Ian Epperson on Sun Nov 18, 2007 5:59 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Ian Epperson
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Location: Alameda, CA
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mattt
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Joined: January 20, 2004
Posts: 1143
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| Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 12:54 pm Post subject: |
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| Ian, thanks for the pics....worth 1000 words. I don't know why I initially said not seeing the hardware on the outside.....duh, it's a hollow cavity there. I just wasn't thinking straight. How thick is that metal there? Seems like over time those bolts wouldn't hold if it just regular sheet metal. |
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surfarii
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Joined: November 26, 2006
Posts: 307
Location: Hawaii
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| Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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Great Idea Ian .
Matt another way of fastening the "angle bracket" is to use riv nuts or a plus nut . They kind of work like a pop rivet with threads on the inside and are very useful for blind hole applications like Ian's set up. I use the shit out of these things and they are very strong .
http://www.perlanesales.com/rivnut.php
Ian if that bolt is a 3/8 you can use the same set up since it will require you to drill a 3/8 hole for a 1/4 20 bolt. |
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Ian Epperson
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Joined: January 12, 2005
Posts: 2262
Location: Alameda, CA
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| Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 3:01 pm Post subject: |
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| mattt wrote: |
| How thick is that metal there? Seems like over time those bolts wouldn't hold if it just regular sheet metal. |
Not very thick. I'm a bit concerned about it, but it holds tight now. I always assumed that if it failed, I'd fix it somehow - perhaps welding on a nut or something.... but...
| surfarii wrote: |
| another way of fastening the "angle bracket" is to use riv nuts or a plus nut . |
Freakin awsome idea! That would handily solve the problem.
Bah, 3/8! Them's metric bolts!  I had to drill it to some weird size like 7/32" before tapping it to the 8x1.0 threads. Looks like the riv nuts are pretty forgiving, and I'm not so squeamish about drilling it out a bit bigger if need be.
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74 Thing
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