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Cabin Insulation
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kinsey
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just whatever you do stay away from the easy out solution
of fiberglass insulation. Any moisture gets sucked up and held
and that equals rust.
I spent a lot of $$$ and time getting rid of the rust so I don't want it back.

Putting in peel and stick and reflectix with the foil tape takes
a lot longer. I even sprayed in some foam insulation in a couple
of hard to get to spots, but IMHO it was the best way to go.

I also sprayed under the bus with a generous amount of
gravel gaurd wherever I could.

A key place to pay attention to is the floor in the front of the bus.
And I put new rubber over the pedestals.

Kinsey Cool Cool Smile
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david_594
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kinsey wrote:
Just whatever you do stay away from the easy out solution
of fiberglass insulation. Any moisture gets sucked up and held
and that equals rust.


How sure are you on this? My westy came with fiberglass insulation stuffed in the ceiling and all the side panels from day one. Within the last month I redid all the roof and interior panels and there was really no signs of rust anywhere where the fiberglass insulation was originally.
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Cptn. Calzone
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:36 am    Post subject: Cabin insulation Reply with quote

IMHO fiberglass is just fine in NON MOIST AREAS, such as doors.The roof /headliner areas will be fine with a vapor barrier of some sort(plastic).But for doors, I feel something not affected by moisture, and yes the factory did install fiberglass in the slider door, but so much better products are available 40 years later . Idea
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Cptn. Calzone
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 11:38 am    Post subject: Cabin Insulation Reply with quote

Apologies everyone, a non moist area is not a door Embarassed Embarassed
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOVA Bus wrote:
Yesterday I checked out that Reflectex material at lowes, seem's thin, didn't notice the R value.


I work at a HVAC wholesale. Its R4 and R8 if you double it. Makes sense! Laughing

So you guys have had good luck putting the reflectix bubble wrap in the engine compartment? Did i read that right or was it just inside the bus.
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

just the inside of the bus works like a dream

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...p;start=60
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phip
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

IzzardKing, How has the Reflectex held up under your flooring? I was about to put it in but rememberd it's basically just bubble wrap with foil on both sides and felt like the bubbles would pop or deflate if I put floor on top of it - much reducing the value as insulation. So I'd like to hear how it is holding up, but I'm thinking I'll put just Peel&Stick on the floors and Peel&Stick + Reflectex everywhere else.
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it holds up fine what you also want to do that makes a big differance in sound, insulation, is go with the hardwood pergo snap and click style flooring
think that any extra material on the ground will keep in heat and deaden sound, also a really really good idea is the rubber padding stuff that goes under the pergo you can see it in my thread it's that green stuff, it's made from rubber so absorbs no water and deadens sound like a champ and ups the r value, the size and spacing of the buble wrap makes it where walking on it and such wont pop it, as since the bubles are small the weight of the person and floor is dispersed well enough to not break them, i had to pull some out a few days ago when i was installing a different bed in my camper and was wondering this same thing, everything looks ok!


sorry if that's hard to read @ work and am quit busy today!~
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:35 pm    Post subject: SCORE! Reply with quote

I just scored a full 50ft roll of the reflectix bubble wrap from work. It was damaged???!!!??? (small tear!)

Next I just need some sound deadner and let the fun begin!
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i'd like to also mention i used no other sound deadening material besides the bubble wrap an rubber floor pad. Rubber does a very good job of blocking sound, the sound deadening paint is nothing more than a rubberized paint, it may be marginally better but i can't see that the difference would be that much.
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NinetyEight
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check out RAAMaudio. They've got their main sound deadener RAAMmat, and they've got a closed cell foam mat that you apply with spray adhesive which should help out a ton with the insulation you're looking for. Compared to other sound deadeners the ensolite is pretty easy on the wallet as well.

http://www.raamaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=pr
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VWDruid
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used this stuff, help keep out the radio waves Cool
http://www.sciplus.com/search.cfm?utm_source=inter...searchtest
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

link is dead? what is it a tin foil hat? Laughing
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VWDruid
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

close, cut and past this in search function in there site.

( 37965 SILVER FOAM SHEET )

http://www.sciplus.com/search.cfm?utm_source=inter...searchtest
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would this be stuff used for the engine compartment? Seems reasonably priced. Anyone have pics with this installed. My 70 has a black textured cardboard looking insulation right now.

http://www.automotiveinteriors.com/HEAT_SHIELD.htm
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VWDruid
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not wrap my exhaust or my heads in it.

The stuff i use, I tested it with the cigarette lighter from the bus, thinking to do the same thing, the neoprene side was not effected by the red hot surface of the lighter, but when i applied it to the aluminum side it tern to ash.
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Air_Cooled_Nut
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWDruid wrote:
close, cut and past this in search function in there site.

( 37965 SILVER FOAM SHEET )

http://www.sciplus.com/search.cfm?utm_source=inter...searchtest

The URL itself:
http://www.sciplus.com/singleItem.cfm/terms/13806
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Air_Cooled_Nut
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 03, 2008 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a couple of BASIC* things to remember (aimed at those who are new to this stuff):
1. If you want to reduce noise as well as thermally insulate your vehicle, you need to bond the insulation to the metal for maximum effectiveness. This is why EVERY acoustic insulator is adhered to the body panel in one way or another.

2. Any additional insulation (thermal and/or acoustic) beyond the stock application will help. Crumpling up newspaper and stuffing it in the empty spaces will thermally insulate the vehicle better than nothing at all. I am dead serious. This is actually a survival technique; you crumple up paper and stuff it in your clothing. The air pockets created are what make the insulation Wink Partially dried maple leaves do the same thing (it was a Boy Scout thing, that's how I know).

3. Be very, very careful about spray-in foams. If they expand and have no where to expand to then they can possibly cause damage. They have a great potential to be messy. Some can contain components that are acidic to metal...not good. They have a VERY good potential to trap moisture. Personally, I wouldn't recommend foam. The damage it can cause isn't measured in days or months but in years down the road...

4. Foam padding has pretty much the negative of holding moisture as well. Over time it can rot and disintegrate and thus become ineffective. Neoprene isn't bad because of its dense, closed-cell nature.

5. Use quality materials so they'll last! This is something you want to do once. Of course, if you go the crumpled up newspaper route then it's just costing you time Laughing



*Basic information for understanding what's going on and the goals. Not a professional installers diatribe nor physics geek speech. That detailed stuff is easily found else where on the internet.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kinsey said
Quote:
Putting in peel and stick and reflectix with the foil tape takes
a lot longer.


phip said
Quote:
So I'd like to hear how it is holding up, but I'm thinking I'll put just Peel&Stick on the floors and Peel&Stick + Reflectex everywhere else.


A couple of you mentioned "Peel and Stick" in addition to Reflectix. Where do I find "Peel and Stick"? And how much of the Reflectix are you guys going through? It looks like I can order it in 24in X 25ft; 16in X 25ft; and 4ft X 25ft. If doubling or triple layers is better than one layer should I go for the 4ft X 25ft size?

Thanks.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think they are talking about a dynamat type material. Its peel and stick sound insulation....unless Im wrong! Laughing
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