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Cabin Insulation
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phip
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, this stuff is a foil-backed asphalt product with an adhesive backing. It is used for roofling flat surfaces, esp RV roofs. It is explained better in another thread which I can't find right now.
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

phip wrote:
No, this stuff is a foil-backed asphalt product with an adhesive backing. It is used for roofling flat surfaces, esp RV roofs. It is explained better in another thread which I can't find right now.


Phip is it like this stuff?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=154017-81326-PS625
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phip
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That certainly looks like it. I haven't gotten any yet but that looks like the stuff.
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think I may give it a try....Buy one roll and check it out. At least its fairly cheap.
Would you use something like this in the engine bay, or u think it would melt?
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i heard that stuff gets really nasty if it gets to hot, as it has a tar like substance on it and if it gets to hot it just tyurns into goo and such making an aweful smell and a mess to clean up later in the buses life. i don't know for a fact just remembered something about this in another thread when i was doing my insulation. can anyone confirm or deny my thoughts?
i have another bus i need to do, and i want this one to be even better than my first!
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

theizzardking wrote:
i heard that stuff gets really nasty if it gets to hot, as it has a tar like substance on it and if it gets to hot it just tyurns into goo and such making an aweful smell and a mess to clean up later in the buses life. i don't know for a fact just remembered something about this in another thread when i was doing my insulation. can anyone confirm or deny my thoughts?
i have another bus i need to do, and i want this one to be even better than my first!


That makes sense, plus i just read the adhesive holds up to 110F and I bet its that hot in my engine bay right now at home in the garage.

I may try some on the interior, but now you have me worried about smell.
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phip
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I said, I haven't used it, but the thread I read about it in said you air it out for a few days and the smell is gone. I don't know what happens on a hot summer day.
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gmag69
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did the whole rear area of my Westy in this stuff.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I heard it would melt and off gas nasty smells on hot days. Never smelled a thing from it. I bet it got 100* in there this summer with the windows up easy. Next will be bubble wrap insulation. Cool [/img]
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barefootwestie
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used the same foil asphalt material you are talking about in another vehicle. It did smell for about 3 or 4 but never smelled again after that. However, the added weight caused my hinges to wear faster and ended up replacing them. I would also be concerned about the long term effects on your lungs. Even if you can't smell it, it could still effect you. BUT, it does dampen the sound.
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Last edited by barefootwestie on Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:48 pm; edited 1 time in total
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i found this stuff is the best option,make sure it's the rubberized stuff so it don't take on any water or the sorts. other than that get some 3m spray adhesive cut this stuff to fit and you should be golden.the combo of the 2 is pretty much what dynomat is, so you can do your whole bus for 60-70 bucks as opposed to hundred's ....note sounds quality's and warmth qualities of each, use the 2 for sounds and min insulation and then throw some bubble foil stuff in there for good measure.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet...401+503220

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet...401+503220



uumm anyone thought about using this stuff? it might be very very cool!
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet...401+500018

use it in the floors and walls prolly wayy better than insulation if you live in the north! might be able to make a really cool set up with these in every large panel in the bus, pretty much turning your bus in to a oven...hahhaa!
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hiwaycallin
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

barefootwestie wrote:
...I would also be concerned about the long term effects on your lungs. Even if yo ucan't smell it, it could still effect you. ...

Yeah, me too. Think about it, would you put asphalt products in the bedroom of your house? Shocked
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

panic_fan wrote:


http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=154017-81326-PS625


I have read alot, people say this stuff works good. And its super cheap!
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

does that stuff work well? it seems as if your just sticking more alum. against the surface of the bus, while any material is better than no material, i just don't see any benefit of using that, as we all know how well alum. conducts and DISSIPATES heat, unlike the bubble stuff which has air pockets to trap heat in this seems to offer nothing in the way of r-value and
willing to bet the same for deadening sound.

look at "R" rating on everything depending on where you place it the R value changes, it's not that the material it's self is able to morph into something else it has to do with the materials ability to trap dead air and keep that dead air warm. like stated above this is how a goose down jacket works, the goose feathers are hollow and same with the space inbetween each feather , your body heat warms up this dead space in between the feathers and the feathers trap that air. same goes for any sort of insulation so think about this when your choosing a material and where/how to place it.


now sound deadening.
sounds travel in waves depending on the material and the surface of said material the waves will either deflect,reflect, or be absorbed.
we don't care about the first 2 , so i'll just move on to absorption, if you look at the sound absorbing products out there they all have 1 thing in common the use of rubber for many reason this works well in vehicles as when applied to the surface of your bus it flexes with the chassis and does a good job of damping the vibrations from the chassis it's self, with the added bonus of absorbing and sound waves that may come towards it as well.

just some things to keep in mind as you wade through the endless list of materials and products.
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VWMIKE76
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How dare you say that! Thats as funny as the guy that advertised a gas heater for a bug that would heat your bug like an oven, and he actually knew nothing about history, Izzardking you crack me up!

use it in the floors and walls prolly wayy better than insulation if you live in the north! might be able to make a really cool set up with these in every large panel in the bus, pretty much turning your bus in to a oven...hahhaa![/quote]
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 9:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

theizzardking wrote:
...uumm anyone thought about using this stuff? it might be very very cool!
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet...401+500018

...

As long as your Bus can handle the power requirements:
Voltage : 120 Volts
Wattage : 120 Watt
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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I built a window screen for the windshield and side windows out of the reflectix. Keeps the heat out and no one can see in. Cool
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panic_fan
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a vw, but still talking about peel and seal.
http://www.ajquick.com/cars/tutorials/sound_deadener.php

Looks like this stuff is used alot. I have only found one bad review, the guy had it in door panels and didn't apply properly. It got all over his windows when he rolled them down Rolling Eyes
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Stuggi
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The most dense and effective (thickness vs. insulation-properties wise) insulation you can get your hands on today is polyurethane sheets (sheets made out of the same stuff as expanding foam, only denser). Those sheets, which sadly are stiff, combined with expanding foam as glue, with proper ventilation, is probably the best way to insulate just about anything, and since they don't have to be very thick to do their work (100mm - 150mm is what's needed to insulate a modern house wall here in Finland, and temps are known to drop as low as -30 C in the winter, bearing in mind that those specs are for houses constantly kept at +20C - +25C indoors with as little heat leakage as possible) you should be good with as little as 50-100mm. The only downside is that it's probably one of the most expensive types of insulation available, but it's still not as expensive as some sound-insulation sheets for cars...
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 12:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuggi wrote:
The most dense and effective (thickness vs. insulation-properties wise) insulation you can get your hands on today is polyurethane sheets (sheets made out of the same stuff as expanding foam, only denser). Those sheets, which sadly are stiff, combined with expanding foam as glue, with proper ventilation, is probably the best way to insulate just about anything, and since they don't have to be very thick to do their work (100mm - 150mm is what's needed to insulate a modern house wall here in Finland, and temps are known to drop as low as -30 C in the winter, bearing in mind that those specs are for houses constantly kept at +20C - +25C indoors with as little heat leakage as possible) you should be good with as little as 50-100mm. The only downside is that it's probably one of the most expensive types of insulation available, but it's still not as expensive as some sound-insulation sheets for cars...


your crazy babel of metric speech has me confused...hahah j/k

i thought about this stuff before , and am thinking of using it in certain areas just seems very hard to work with, and it all come down to "r" value
is the "r" value that much higher than the bubble stuff? do you have photo's with your material being used does anybody? thanks!
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theizzardking
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the due who wrote that peel and seal thing, pisses me off look at his resume, i'm a tool designer and don't get to call my self a mechanical engineer because i don't have a degree even thought i design and build tooling for the aerospace industry, why in the world people have robbed the term engineer i will never know it makes me sick, in other countries your addressed as engineer just like a doctor would be. It's that highly regarded in some places, but only in America can we have custodial engineers and parking lot engineers ect ect ect...sorry had to rant and no where else to do it.

http://www.ajquick.com/resume/



"Methodist Hospital
Parking Lot Engineer
(6/03 - Present)

* Collects payment from visitors, and patients for thier parking stay."
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