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scott_79bay Samba Member

Joined: July 27, 2007 Posts: 203 Location: Seattle - C.D.
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Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 1:03 am Post subject: |
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So what I've been trying to figure out is where can you get butyl rubber sheeting? Why not cut out the middle man. _________________ 1979 Sunroof Bus
2.0 FI |
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bug-nuts Samba Member

Joined: April 30, 2008 Posts: 85 Location: S.E. Kansas
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Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:35 am Post subject: |
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| scott_79bay wrote: | | So what I've been trying to figure out is where can you get butyl rubber sheeting? Why not cut out the middle man. |
McMaster Carr http://www.mcmaster.com/ sells it by the roll in many different thicknesses, They show it both with and without peel and stick backing. _________________ Whoever smelt it, dealt it.
1973 Thing
1978 Westy
1998 Beetle |
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dansvans Samba Member

Joined: October 25, 2003 Posts: 5159 Location: NY
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Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 10:28 am Post subject: |
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wondering how many actually read this whole test review?
looks like Damplifier outperforms Dynamat and its way cheaper to boot! especially desirable for front door cavities as you can reposition it easily, then as time goes by it adheres stronger and stronger.
RAMM audio's RAMMmat is a slightly better value in the same non-asphalt category, but lighter per square foot. still, expensive stuff. $218 (shipped) for 125 square feet.
seems to me that Peel & Seal is fine for floor and over the engine, but on walls and ceiling Damplifier or RAMMmat is apparently necessary for long term adhesion.
as for insulation, reflectix is great stuff and i thought i read that its R-value is 11 with a 3/4" airspace? i would not use foam in a can. even though its closed cell, it can still trap water in a corner. |
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scott_79bay Samba Member

Joined: July 27, 2007 Posts: 203 Location: Seattle - C.D.
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Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 3:44 pm Post subject: |
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Sorry sure it's been discussed, but about how many sqft for a single layer? _________________ 1979 Sunroof Bus
2.0 FI |
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dansvans Samba Member

Joined: October 25, 2003 Posts: 5159 Location: NY
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Posted: Sat Jan 10, 2009 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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you would need 125 square feet to do roof, walls, and nose. roof is 65 sq. ft. alone, walls are 55 sq. ft. (including front doors), 5 sq. ft. for the nose center. adds 48 pounds of butyl and foil to the bus if you buy RAMM mat
80 sq.ft. of peel and seal will cover the floor and wheel wells, adding another 25 pounds |
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scott_79bay Samba Member

Joined: July 27, 2007 Posts: 203 Location: Seattle - C.D.
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barefootwestie Samba Member

Joined: September 19, 2005 Posts: 1320 Location: Charleston, SC
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 8:05 am Post subject: |
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Good information and look forward to reading through it. My main concern would be with any toxic fumes (detectable by the nose or not) that my be hazardous in a closed environment such as a vehicle.
Even though I'm sure they have probably tested the material, I am thoroughly convinced that manufacturers do not and cannot test products for long term effects. _________________ tangerinemoons.com
My Bus Restoration Blog
http://myvwbus.tangerinemoons.com/
1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."
Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia |
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Justin Samba Member

Joined: September 21, 2005 Posts: 251 Location: Snohomish, WA
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:21 am Post subject: |
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With the foil-backed bubble stuff, did you just put it in behind the panels? I'm a little nervous about gluing mine to the outer sheet metal. Will it insulate just as well if it's right behind the interior panels instead?
SIDENOTE:
Hello! I'm Justin, the guy with the wife and kid that bought the bed from you last weekend. (Also the jerk that woke you and your entire house up... ) I'm still working on the bed. I realized that since it's a partial-width I have to modify one of the hinges to fit over the wheel well in order to make it a full-width. I have lots of welding gear at work and if I can't do it, I work with a guy who's an excellent welder. It should work out alright.
Anyway, hey! Thanks again for the bed, the hub caps and the cot hinges. _________________ "God demonstrates His own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us."
-Romans 5:8 |
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theizzardking Samba Member

Joined: June 13, 2008 Posts: 2098 Location: seattle
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:47 am Post subject: |
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| rogers_68 wrote: |
With the foil-backed bubble stuff, did you just put it in behind the panels? I'm a little nervous about gluing mine to the outer sheet metal. Will it insulate just as well if it's right behind the interior panels instead?
SIDENOTE:
Hello! I'm Justin, the guy with the wife and kid that bought the bed from you last weekend. (Also the jerk that woke you and your entire house up... ) I'm still working on the bed. I realized that since it's a partial-width I have to modify one of the hinges to fit over the wheel well in order to make it a full-width. I have lots of welding gear at work and if I can't do it, I work with a guy who's an excellent welder. It should work out alright.
Anyway, hey! Thanks again for the bed, the hub caps and the cot hinges. |
Hey no worries! when i did mine i used some 3m adhesive spray and lightly sprayed that to the inner sheet metal surface and also did the same to the interior panel creating an air pocket between the 2 sheets of reflectix the manufacture states with this pocket the" r" value of the reflectix is increased, as the r value of this stuff is completely dependent on where you place it and how you place it , i was thinking about rust issues when i was placing this against the bare steel and i can see no draw back as long as you don't press it firmly against the body this allows small spaces for the water to travel down the back side of the sheet, also in consideration of what the stock insulation was in these thing that was originally pressed against the sheet metal anyways . also when i used the spray foam to seal up any other areas i cut a pathway to the lower floor to allow water to flow using a coat hanger.
that's just what i did warmth for me is a major issue as where i choose to sleep usually has snow in the parking lot till august.
on my build thread i believe i go over what i did it's called the wanderer search it if you care. there is a discussion on this same subject on there as well thats after i found out about the issue of trapping water with the closed cell foam.
i'm here if you need me man not to far away so i can pop by and give you a hand or whatever you need. take care and get some photo's up of how it's going!!! _________________ "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin
'71 westie "the wanderer" |
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Justin Samba Member

Joined: September 21, 2005 Posts: 251 Location: Snohomish, WA
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Posted: Fri Jan 23, 2009 11:06 am Post subject: |
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I haven't decided yet how to insulate my bus. I just stumbled on this article, though, and it makes it seem like spun fiberglass doesn't hold moisture. (About a third of the way down.)
Any thoughts on this?
-Justin _________________ "God demonstrates His own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us."
-Romans 5:8 |
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second skin rep Samba Member
Joined: October 26, 2005 Posts: 338 Location: Anthem AZ
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Posted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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| scott_79bay wrote: | | So what I've been trying to figure out is where can you get butyl rubber sheeting? Why not cut out the middle man. |
Butyl rubber sheeting is not the same as a constraint layer viscoelastic damper.
Not even close. |
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naynay Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2008 Posts: 103 Location: Bellingham,WA
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Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:39 pm Post subject: |
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well, I'm late to the party, but here is my 2 cents. I was going to use the asphalt peel and stick roofing stuff, but I happened across a helpful home depot employee who Also happens to love old cars, and fixes them up on a budget. He told me that the asphalt stuff is messy and gooey- makes sense- and steered me towards "Protecto Wrap butyl hybrid window and door sealing tape". I haven't installed it yet, but I like that it has NO odor- and it was inexpensive to boot- 17 bucks for a 9"x 33' roll- and it also comes in a 6" roll for about 11-12 bucks.
I have been working on rust eradication, followed by appying duplicolors' version of rattle can truck bed liner- i figured good rust prevention and sound deadening combo. next is the Protecto wrap- but then I get stuck- I want carpet, but don't know what to put between the Protecto and the carpet. maybe I should skip carpet, and go Linoleum or something so it'll stay cleaner. I dunno. anyway, helpful home depot guy said jute carpet pad between protecto and carpet. I think it is too spendy for me. i looked at the underlayment for under wod floors- seems really nice- and spendy-ish. perhaps I need to wait until my definition of spendy shifts a little. tight budget at the moment- but Lots of time on my hands, so I would like to get some work done! _________________ 74 Rivi
"Do not let what you cannot do interfere with what you Can do." - John Wooden |
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jah_B Samba Member

Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 1148 Location: Tempe, AZ
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Posted: Tue Feb 24, 2009 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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masonite or osb would be ok on your floor over the insulator. b4 the carpet. _________________ 1984 CABRIOLET 6spd, quaife diff, Neuspeed springs, sway bars, tie bar, short shift kit, bilstein shocks, 16X7 RSE 3pc wheels, BFG TA 205 40s
1972 tintop P30 CAMPMOBILE: M/T, 1.7L, dual kadrons, 019 diz. Sunny the S'kool Bus
You gotta know what you don't know. That's the key to wisdom. man. |
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naynay Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2008 Posts: 103 Location: Bellingham,WA
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Posted: Mon Mar 02, 2009 8:17 pm Post subject: |
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thanks- will do. I think I am going to go with linoleum look vinyl squares from lowes- made by armstrong, and commercial grade- and they have that old school swirly look to them. plus they come in rad colors like orange and purple! plus at 30 bucks for a box of too many sq feet, it fits my budget.  _________________ 74 Rivi
"Do not let what you cannot do interfere with what you Can do." - John Wooden |
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EvilWerks Samba Member

Joined: August 16, 2007 Posts: 161 Location: Palmyra, PA
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Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 2:55 pm Post subject: |
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| panic_fan wrote: | Finished my weekend Project. Peel n Stick'd the interior firewall and cargo area. MUCH quieter now, I can still hear the hummm of that classic VW engine, but can now hear my radio and passengers as well.
-Smell went away after about 2 days with the doors opened in the garage.
-Cleaned up & Used small heater to make sure metal was nice and warm to stick too.
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So, we just had a thread about sound deadening pop up where this one was referenced. I asked about the peel n stick roof stuff and was told it was a bad idea. However, this guy seemed to have it work fine for him as did one other poster in this thread.
Do we have any long term data on this method? Smells, issues, etc? _________________ Dr Evil, MD (Mike)
74 Bay being converted to 3.1L Corvair power and pop top
Link --> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=345677 |
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barefootwestie Samba Member

Joined: September 19, 2005 Posts: 1320 Location: Charleston, SC
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Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:25 am Post subject: |
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Just proves that their are more than one opinion about anything.
Personally, I installed in a previous vehicle. It did smell for about 3 days. After that it was fine. It did deaden the sound considerable. I would be careful where placed as I used it on inside of doors and it added quite a bit of weight to the door, and I ended up replacing the hinges a year or so later.
My biggest concern hindsight, and why I won't be using it in my Bus, would be the long term effects. Just because I'm not smelling it doesn't mean that I may not be breathing in anything toxic. _________________ tangerinemoons.com
My Bus Restoration Blog
http://myvwbus.tangerinemoons.com/
1973 Westfalia
"Getting better....one repair at a time."
Other VW's owned through the years, in no particular order:
'67 Beetle,
'67 Ghia Hardtop,
'72 Ghia Convertible,
'72 Westfalia |
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fastmc25 Samba Member

Joined: January 01, 2004 Posts: 982 Location: NW, Louisiana
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panic_fan Samba Member

Joined: April 21, 2008 Posts: 458 Location: Stockbridge GA
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Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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| barefootwestie wrote: |
My biggest concern hindsight, and why I won't be using it in my Bus, would be the long term effects. Just because I'm not smelling it doesn't mean that I may not be breathing in anything toxic. |
I agree...If you have a bus that you use for camping and you sleep in it, It might not be the best idea. Mine is just the transporter so we dont sleep in it, plus its not my daily. _________________ Rich
Brilliant Blue/Cloud White
1970 Baywindow Bus
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=291988&highlight=
"Still learnin the way around my VW bay"
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peace.love.vanagon Samba Member
Joined: January 08, 2009 Posts: 72 Location: Caro, Michigan
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Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 6:48 am Post subject: |
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soo its been a while since a new update and reflextics insulation after reading this sounds like the best idea for keeping heat. thats my main concern is to just trap and keep heat. so has there been anything new that people are trying and getting good results? _________________ 1979 Westy |
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mywifesghia Samba Member

Joined: February 14, 2007 Posts: 1048 Location: Ormond Beach, FL
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Posted: Tue Jun 01, 2010 2:54 pm Post subject: |
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I thought I'd add this to the post. The cavities are bothersome to me, hate to leave them hollow and understand the fear of water and moisture. Saw this stuff http://greatstuff.dow.com/products/ps.htm
at ACE Hardware. About $8.50 a can. Might give it a try. Anyone use it or any thoughts? _________________ '70 Ghia Coupe-My Wife's
'69 Squareback/'83 GTi-My Son's
'72 Bus-Mine
'06 Beetle-My Daughter's |
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