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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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 Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 3:50 pm Post subject: 73 sedan project begins... |
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Hey guys, just thought I'd share a few photos here of my 73. I picked it up about a month ago and finally got started on it. here she is
already removed the fenders, decklid and hood. they are in pretty good shape, but the fenders on from a 72.
another view
cleaning up the engine bay
pans and channels not bad. somebody replaced them already but never treated the pans.  why would you not treat them?
this is a mess, but its all there.
im thinking the brake fluid reservoir lines need to be replaced. this gas system is ridiculous. I'm deleting everything but the filler neck.
mismatched door...trim line doesn't line up.
what is that black box?
should these rivets be there? probably not.
this area obviously needs attention. I have the replacement panel for it. can I do this without removing the body from the pan?
next issue...this bolt is stuck and I mean it. the 17mm no longer fits its so deteriorated. any suggestions?
sorry guys, lots of stuff to look at here. just wanted to share and get advice!
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always seeking a better way
my 73 standard project
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miller0358
Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2007
Posts: 607
Location: northford,ct
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:13 pm Post subject: 73 sedan |
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| I'm getting ready to install my body back on the chassis in about 2 weeks. Good luck, Jeff |
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DrDarby
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Joined: May 12, 2004
Posts: 6465
Location: Northern Illinois
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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Glad to see another one saved. The black box is the voltage regulator for an alternator (alternator arrived middle of the 1973 model year). You'll most likely have to cut that bolt off and drill it out. You can soak and soak and soak in Kroil or BP Blaster then rattle it good with an impact hammer (then repeat) and after about a week try it. If you can heat it red hot that might do it too........just be ready to drill it out.
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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| DrDarby wrote: | | Glad to see another one saved. The black box is the voltage regulator for an alternator (alternator arrived middle of the 1973 model year). You'll most likely have to cut that bolt off and drill it out. You can soak and soak and soak in Kroil or BP Blaster then rattle it good with an impact hammer (then repeat) and after about a week try it. If you can heat it red hot that might do it too........just be ready to drill it out. |
okay, voltage regulator, thanks!
the suspention bolt...hmm...gonna be fun cutting that one out. why do I have this feeling that I can't replace that panel without taking the body off the pan?
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always seeking a better way
my 73 standard project
do your research, consult with experts, and buy quality parts. you won't be sorry |
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Rome
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Joined: June 02, 2004
Posts: 3303
Location: Pearl River, NY
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:23 pm Post subject: |
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This car certainly is saveable. Stay with it; complete one task before going to another. Rivets at glovebox should be there; they hold the dash surround panel to the metal dash. Glovebox should also have a black plastic liner over it.
Rear body bolt- heating it until bolt head is red/orange is good idea, since the expansion can break the rust bond to the chassis. Then, use a medium chisel straight-on to mark a flat on a side of the bolt head, preferably on the right side. Then place the chisel tip in that mark, hold the chisel "tangentially" to the head, and hit it with hammer (wear glove!). You are trying to break the bolt and turn it CCW ("lefty loosey"). Repeat this as the bolt starts to turn and loosen. This technique is in the back of the "Idiot" VW manual.
Although I've never replaced that rear mounting panel section, it appears that you can do the repair with body on pan. Just make sure that you cut the body metal slightly SMALLER than the patch panel initially, then trip to fit based on the type of repair (welding, riveting) you are planning. |
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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| Rome wrote: | This car certainly is saveable. Stay with it; complete one task before going to another. Rivets at glovebox should be there; they hold the dash surround panel to the metal dash. Glovebox should also have a black plastic liner over it.
Rear body bolt- heating it until bolt head is red/orange is good idea, since the expansion can break the rust bond to the chassis. Then, use a medium chisel straight-on to mark a flat on a side of the bolt head, preferably on the right side. Then place the chisel tip in that mark, hold the chisel "tangentially" to the head, and hit it with hammer (wear glove!). You are trying to break the bolt and turn it CCW ("lefty loosey"). Repeat this as the bolt starts to turn and loosen. This technique is in the back of the "Idiot" VW manual.
Although I've never replaced that rear mounting panel section, it appears that you can do the repair with body on pan. Just make sure that you cut the body metal slightly SMALLER than the patch panel initially, then trip to fit based on the type of repair (welding, riveting) you are planning. |
thank you for the info, Rome. I will give it a shot, and post the results. I assume I can't get the bolt hot enough with a propane torch? I don't have access to an oxy/acetylene torch. 
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my 73 standard project
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gerg
a.k.a. 6volt65
Joined: April 25, 2003
Posts: 5413
Location: Monroe, LA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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If that doesn't work I'd slowly cut away everything around it, knock the head off and work the stud out once the head is out of the way.
I had the same bolt on the other side break (socket actually fit well). The stud came out easily.
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Gerg
. . . I got 99 problems and my bus ain't one . . .
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:59 pm Post subject: |
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| gerg wrote: | If that doesn't work I'd slowly cut away everything around it, knock the head off and work the stud out once the head is out of the way.
I had the same bolt on the other side break (socket actually fit well). The stud came out easily. |
how did you get at the stud? was the body off?
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gerg
a.k.a. 6volt65
Joined: April 25, 2003
Posts: 5413
Location: Monroe, LA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, and it has been several years but it you can get it center punched correctly and good EZout will back it out with heat applied.
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Gerg
. . . I got 99 problems and my bus ain't one . . .
'65 Sunroof Beetle
'65 Vert
'60 Singlecab
*SBS 75*, LVVWC, SV2
www.my65bug.com
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:00 pm Post subject: |
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ill try it and post back some results, hopefully with some skin left on my knuckles.
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always seeking a better way
my 73 standard project
do your research, consult with experts, and buy quality parts. you won't be sorry |
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gt1953
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Joined: May 08, 2002
Posts: 7341
Location: White Mountains Arizona
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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Nice garage. Lotta work but U will getter done. My 73 has 72 trim along the running boards. How did you decide that it had 72 fenders? Not surprising, I think if it was in the parts bin they used it. Ditch the voltage regulator and go with an internal regulator altenator.
on your brake fluid reservoir line I strongly suggest you use fuel injector line as it has a plastic lining to hold up to the brake fluid.
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vwbud1973
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Joined: April 24, 2007
Posts: 126
Location: Flanders, NJ
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Nice! Keep up the good work. I wish mine was that nice when I started! Good luck with it.
I'd give that bolt some Kroil, and later in the day, heat it up and give it a whack with an air chisel or just a hammer and chisel. I had a few stubborn ones like that on mine. Although that particular bolt was laid sideways between the body and the frame and welded in between the two!  |
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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| gt1953 wrote: | Nice garage. Lotta work but U will getter done. My 73 has 72 trim along the running boards. How did you decide that it had 72 fenders? Not surprising, I think if it was in the parts bin they used it. Ditch the voltage regulator and go with an internal regulator altenator.
on your brake fluid reservoir line I strongly suggest you use fuel injector line as it has a plastic lining to hold up to the brake fluid. |
thanks! I love it, only wish I would have built it bigger! isn't that always the case though. the best thing I did was putting in-floor heat in there. concrete stays nice and warm.
I do have quite a bit of work on my hands, but I enjoy being out there working on it. the fenders, well, I decided they are 72s because they have 71-72 taillights on them instead of elephant feet holes. If I ditch the voltage regulator for an internally regulated unit, which wires can I eliminate. I am an idiot when it comes to electrical stuff. 
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my 73 standard project
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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| vwbud1973 wrote: | Nice! Keep up the good work. I wish mine was that nice when I started! Good luck with it.
I'd give that bolt some Kroil, and later in the day, heat it up and give it a whack with an air chisel or just a hammer and chisel. I had a few stubborn ones like that on mine. Although that particular bolt was laid sideways between the body and the frame and welded in between the two! |
wow, puts things in perspective! I would really like to get it out of there whole, but due to the rust damage to the head, I might being pissing in the wind with that idea. I like the "soak it in PB blaster and beat on it with a chisel" idea.  sounds right up my alley.
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my 73 standard project
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:29 pm Post subject: |
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its here!  
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 55669
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 8:33 pm Post subject: Re: 73 sedan project begins... |
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| millerje78 wrote: | |
Same problem on my passenger side. I had my body guy leave it as is since that's how the car came from the factory.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:07 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Glenn, yeah, I see what you're saying. It looks like yours is ever so slightly off, where mine I think is because this door is a replacement off of donor vehicle. I'm pretty sure mine is more than a minor factory oversight.
nice fricking bug by the way. I'm shooting for something half as cool as your 74.
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my 73 standard project
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PatterBon
Samba Engine Connoisseur
Joined: September 27, 2008
Posts: 3222
Location: Seattle, Washington
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:10 pm Post subject: |
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Very nice project! Glad to see another 73 getting the attention it deserves, good luck with it and I look forward to seeing how it turns out!
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lupin..the..3rd
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Joined: December 28, 2009
Posts: 1802
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Replace your brake master cylinder, that thing looks nasty corroded. Oh and I'm quite jealous of that nice big heated garage!! |
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millerje78
Samba Amishman
Joined: October 16, 2005
Posts: 2526
Location: Holmes County, Ohio
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| Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:43 pm Post subject: |
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| lupin..the..3rd wrote: | | Replace your brake master cylinder, that thing looks nasty corroded. Oh and I'm quite jealous of that nice big heated garage!! |
I shall indeed replace it. I hope I can find a quality replacement, and I hope I can get the bolts out. I am having a lot of fun getting corroded fasteners off of this thing. 
the garage is a nice upgrade. when I worked on my 66 I was outside under an awning.
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my 73 standard project
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