Author |
Message |
basil Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2005 Posts: 103
|
Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:37 am Post subject: stuck glove box door |
|
|
The glove box on my 74 Super won't open. I press the latch, but nothing happens. I have tried locking and unlocking it, but the results are the same. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to open it? I really don't want to break the door, as it's from a Sunbug and has the rosewood veneer that would be hard to match/replace. The only reason I'm even bothering with it is that my stereo is inside and I would like to have access to it. _________________ Cashtration: The act of buying a Beetle and then emptying your bank accounts. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
74Pepper Samba Member
Joined: March 26, 2007 Posts: 719 Location: Dallas, TX
|
Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 11:59 am Post subject: |
|
|
Unstrap the glove box from inside the trunk and remove. From inside the trunk you should be able to get the latch open, and then figure out why it isn't opening. _________________ '66 Beetle, in restoration
'74 Ghia, in restoration
'77 Westfalia Campmobile - Dangit - rear-ended! Now has primer-butt!
Per Gary, A.K.A. "Purple dress girl") |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JasonBaker Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2010 Posts: 1642 Location: Cleveland, TN
|
Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:09 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Drill out the key hole in the lock. The springs or something else is busted in the lock. Better to replace the lock than the door.
74Pepper this is a curved windshield bug, You can't access the glove box from the trunk. And beside's the trunk release is inside the glove box. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
74Pepper Samba Member
Joined: March 26, 2007 Posts: 719 Location: Dallas, TX
|
Posted: Thu May 06, 2010 12:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ahhh. I have a diff setup.
He'll likely have to get a diff lock, anyway, so that makes sense.
I guess I was thinking he could get in like this:
Quote: |
While that will work, first try this. Shove downward three times on the hood handle. Then most likely the hood latch will pop open without needing one to be destructive.
Hood latches are a three position latch.
1. broken cable or loose cable and open goes the latch when the friction is released from shoving downward.
2. Properly adjusted cable keeps latch in closed position.
3. Pulled cable and latch swings away from position 1 to open normally.
|
...but didn't know he couldn't get to the glove box straps from inside the trunk. _________________ '66 Beetle, in restoration
'74 Ghia, in restoration
'77 Westfalia Campmobile - Dangit - rear-ended! Now has primer-butt!
Per Gary, A.K.A. "Purple dress girl") |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Joel Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2006 Posts: 11099 Location: NSW Australia
|
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 1:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
74Pepper wrote: |
I guess I was thinking he could get in like this:
Quote: |
While that will work, first try this. Shove downward three times on the hood handle. Then most likely the hood latch will pop open without needing one to be destructive.
Hood latches are a three position latch.
1. broken cable or loose cable and open goes the latch when the friction is released from shoving downward.
2. Properly adjusted cable keeps latch in closed position.
3. Pulled cable and latch swings away from position 1 to open normally.
|
|
who the hell wrote that load of shit?
the 68 on bug hood latch setup is a tongue and plunger system
the if the plunger has been pushed down enough that the tongue locks in place above it no amount of shoving, pressing, jumping is going to release it
the only way to unlock it is to release the tongue
otherwise it wouldnt be a lock now would it?
incidently i got into mates super with a broken cable by removing the deformation plate underneath, knocking out that big round plug in the base of the wheel well and pushing the spare tyre up so i could reach in and release the lock manually
Basil, I've had the same problem with mine about 10 years ago
ended up having to bust the latch to get it open
be sure to sit down before you see the cost of brand new ones _________________ Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle |
|
Back to top |
|
|
basil Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2005 Posts: 103
|
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 6:28 am Post subject: |
|
|
It looks like drilling the lock and busting the latch open is my only option.
Joel: I have seen the price...ouch. That is, if you can find one.
Thanks everyone! _________________ Cashtration: The act of buying a Beetle and then emptying your bank accounts. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
JasonBaker Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2010 Posts: 1642 Location: Cleveland, TN
|
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The lock is only $20.00, when they get it back in stock.
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=3.4836
Buggin that's go to know about the trunk. I shaved all my handles and thought I would be Super screwed if the cable ever broke for the hood.
I should just go ahead and make that plate removable before the shit hits the fan.
Buggin, did you put a Actuator / solenoid for trunk? If so, does your glovebox cable still work. Got any pics. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Joel Samba Member
Joined: September 04, 2006 Posts: 11099 Location: NSW Australia
|
Posted: Fri May 07, 2010 3:39 pm Post subject: |
|
|
hope they re stock soon
i've only seen one or two places that actually sell them and they're more than US$100
Jason, i used to have remote trunk release setup, my alarm system has provision for it
i used an electronic solenoid from a ford to operate it,but left the original factory cable inplace incase that failed
it worked well till i went round a corner to fast and my toolbox smashed the plastic cable fitting off it _________________ Quick little bug, you got a Porsche motor in that?
1974 Germanlook 1303 2.5 Suba-Beetle |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|