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Brian's V-6 rail (re)build (pics added daily)
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 2:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigrich424 wrote:
Again.... looks great! Question where do you get your diamond plate? And more importantly how do you cut it?


Thanks! Different sheets of diamond plate are available at Lowe's (up to 24"x48"), and they are pricey at around 70 bucks (and I'm sure Home Depot or Menards has it as well). Thankfully I didn't need more than 2 of those sheets to make my rear cover, roof (which is cut but not installed yet), and I should have just enough left over for my center console. If you need bigger sheets, try google searching "Aluminum Diamong Plate 4x8". The bigger sheets are around $100 from a few companies, but the shipping is even more at around $120!!! Shocked Dang freight charges! Evil or Very Mad

As for cutting it, my preference is to use a Metabo with a 6 inch cutting disc. Metabo is nothing more than a brand name, any 6 inch grinder with a cutting disc will do the job. With a steady hand, this method will produce nice, straight cuts. But they will have to be deburred after cutting to remove the cut lip.

Here is a picture of my Metabo with the cutting disc:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And a side view shot to show the 1/8" thickness of the cutting disc:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Exclamation A few words of safety about cutting aluminum in this manner.....wear the appropriate clothing! Full length pants, shoes WITHOUT open toes, long sleeves, not a T shirt, and a hat! This will keep the aluminum dust/chips off of you. And most importantly, wear full coverage goggles, not just safety glasses! Cutting in this manner will produce VERY fine chips of aluminum that can get around standard safety glasses! Sorry to sound like a public service announcement, but I wouldn't want anyone to get hurt!

To make things easier on anyone who doesn't want to cut in this manner, there is another option. You can always mark out any straight cuts you need to have done on your aluminum sheet, and take it to just about any metal fabrication shop to have them cut it on a sheet metal sheer. It wouldn't take long to have done if they aren't busy.
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

83_WabbitGTI wrote:
WOW!! What a great build, and fabrication skills to boot!

I love reading through your posts, it's like I'm almost there... Only thing I'm missing is a beer! LOL

Keep it up, can't wait to see this thing finished.... Hey, can you shoot a video of the motor running? I've been wanting to hear that thing roar for awhile now.


Thanks for the kind words! I'm humbled! Embarassed I have always enjoyed fabricating, even when things don't turn out as planned...it's still fun to do! It's always enjoyable to be able to make something out of nothing more than an idea and some materials! Now if only I could get to be really good at it! Laughing

I will do my best to try to get a video of the engine running/revving this weekend. My wife (the super cool computer genius Cool ) will have to show me how to upload the video, since I don't have a clue how to do that! Very Happy

Well....I gotta go mow the lawn before the rain starts Sad . But after that, I get to work on the rail some more! Applause
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, buying steel and tubing and plate, can be a lot cheaper, if you have a friendly purchasing agent at an industrial plant. You usually end up not having to pay shipping.
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Russ Wolfe wrote:
Yeah, buying steel and tubing and plate, can be a lot cheaper, if you have a friendly purchasing agent at an industrial plant. You usually end up not having to pay shipping.


Good point Russ. You don't always have to have friends in HIGH places....just in the right places! Very Happy
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 5:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

quadrazer wrote:
Russ Wolfe wrote:
Yeah, buying steel and tubing and plate, can be a lot cheaper, if you have a friendly purchasing agent at an industrial plant. You usually end up not having to pay shipping.


Good point Russ. You don't always have to have friends in HIGH places....just in the right places! Very Happy


Retirement benefit. Very Happy
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83_WabbitGTI
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wanna be your friend Russ.... I need diamond plate in the worst way.... Arrrgh.
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Russ Wolfe
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 10:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to pay for the steel, I just dont have to pay for freight.
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 10:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I fabbed and installed my alternator bracket. Here it is primed:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And here it is painted and installed on the engine:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The reason for having such a long slot on the bracket is simple....options! I won't be stuck with only one or two belt sizes, which is great. Imagine breaking a belt while at the dunes or off roading and the part store doesn't have the EXACT size belt you were running. This gives me about a 2 1/2 inch belt range to choose from. Very Happy
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 1:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is what the finished engine guard looks like with the lights mounted and wired:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I also painted my horn:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And installed it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Still have to make the center console, then I can finish the wiring. It's getting close now! Very Happy

Since "83_WabbitGTI" asked.....I will post a video a little later today of my engine running. Cool
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 2:35 pm    Post subject: Video of engine running Reply with quote

Here is a short video of my engine running. The engine is a Buick 3.8L odd-fire V6. It's only a 9 second clip:


Link

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bigrich424
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 4:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice looks great! Thanks for the info on the diamond plate.... I need to make floors for mine.... all that is there is expanded steel.... not good for blocking debris... Looking great..... when is the road test?
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

bigrich424 wrote:
Looking great..... when is the road test?


My inspection date with the Ohio State Highway Patrol is the 1st week of July, so I will most likely try to do a few short drives around my house before then to make sure everything is ironed out. I plan to have everything finished by no later than the 23rd. Hopefully I can keep to that time frame! Very Happy

I did fire it up today and drove it around the yard for a lap! Even though my old dashboard was sitting in the passenger seat, everything was still hooked up to it! Cool So far, so good! Building the new center console is gonna be the most time consuming thing left for me to do. Beyond that, it's just some odds and ends.

Since I'm having the windshield custom cut and professionally installed, it doesn't really fall on my to-do list, since I'm not the one actually doing the winshield work! Laughing
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 2:25 pm    Post subject: Roof and skid plate Reply with quote

Today I fabbed and installed my skidplate and roof. First off...the skidplate. It's lightweight, but since this will currently see more street use than anything until I can afford a better transmission, any protection is better than none.

I mounted it unpainted...but I may pull it off and fog it in flat black:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Worms eye view:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And a closer look at the leading edge bolted to the lower end of the tranny mount:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And then the roof. Here is how I started it with the diamond plate cut to size:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


A side view of the start of the roof:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And how it looked after I made the bend in it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Rhino lined the bottom side of the roof.....
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


....then the top:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And finally mounted it:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The nice thing about mounting the roof with the vinal loop clamps is that I can remove it quickly, and not have any tabs left exposed. It's my poor man's convertible! Laughing

I'll start working on the center console tomorrow. That will take me a while, and it happens to be the biggest project on my "what's left to do" list....which is getting VERY short now! Very Happy
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riNR
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 14, 2010 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Excuse me, but I think I see some dirt on there.....Geesh!

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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 8:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

riNR wrote:
Excuse me, but I think I see some dirt on there.....Geesh!


That was just for you riNR! lol
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Kreed
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, nice buold looks great! Couple quick questions:
1. where did you get your 2x3 trailing arms and how much were they
2. What was the cost for the bus axles and the type 1 to type 2 adapters and where did you get those?

Great Job Smile
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kreed wrote:
Wow, nice buold looks great! Couple quick questions:
1. where did you get your 2x3 trailing arms and how much were they
2. What was the cost for the bus axles and the type 1 to type 2 adapters and where did you get those?

Great Job Smile


Thanks for the compliment! The 2x3 arms, and Type 1 to Type 2 adapters came from Appletree Automotive in Michigan, they cost around $350 for the arms, and about $75 for the pair of adapters.
The axles are custom length 19 1/4" from Desert Tech in California. The axles only (no CV's or boots) cost $120. This length axle was needed since I have a Type 1 tranny and 2x3 arms.
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TC/TeamEvil
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What does "I got them clocked" mean in regards to your new CV joints and axles?

I have to install new joints in my rail and now I'm a bit reluctant to do it myself. I doubt that I know how to "clock" a CV joint. Could you fill me in on what it entails?

Thanks ! ! !

T

Oh, LOVE the video ! ! Those pipes sound GREAT ! ! !
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quadrazer
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TC/TeamEvil wrote:
What does "I got them clocked" mean in regards to your new CV joints and axles?

I have to install new joints in my rail and now I'm a bit reluctant to do it myself. I doubt that I know how to "clock" a CV joint. Could you fill me in on what it entails?

Thanks ! ! !

T

Oh, LOVE the video ! ! Those pipes sound GREAT ! ! !


TC,

Here is the link for the "How To", in regards to clocking your CV joints.

http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm

What it basically entails is the alignment of the CV joints in relation to each other on the axle shaft. It is relatively easy to do, and it is VERY important as well! Clocking the CV allows for maximum angularity during travel, while limiting bind. The link above walks you through the process step by step. Let me know how it goes for you, or if you have any questions.

Thanks for the props on the exhaust! I love the way it sounds too! Very Happy
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TC/TeamEvil
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2010 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for that link ! ! ! Although I bought assembled CV joints, it's still great to know how the inner and outer rings ought to align, I'm going to double check my new ones to be sure that they're correct.

I guess that clocking them means drawing a line down the axle and making sure that the wide area of one and the narrow area on the other hit the line. Seems like a small procedure, but an important one as well. Funny how that always seem to hold true.

It was VERY interesting to learn that the axles should NOT be rotated end for end to spread the wear over time, unlike tires I suppose. Evidently, they always have to be re-installed with the same end facing in (and out) and on the same side as originally. Makes me concerned about buying a good used pair of axles, how would I ever know it they were marked correctly.

Thanks SO much for this new (and really crucial) info ! ! Your project has inspired me to one day try to shove my Buick into my rail. It WAS in the Ghia . . .

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/File0003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/File0002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/TeamEvil/File0001.jpg

A V6 in a rail must be crazy fast; any chance of a longer video?

Thanks !

T
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