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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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joemac Samba Member
Joined: December 17, 2004 Posts: 603 Location: elverson, pa.
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Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 11:57 am Post subject: |
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The fact that the pedal went to the floor means the system either took on air, or the cups are shot, allowing fluid to get past them. Pull the boot on the pedal end of the MC back and look for evidence of brake juice. If it's apparent that the fluid has gotten past the cups, it's time for either a MC rebuild or a new one.
You may get lucky with a good bleed with fresh brake juice. Make sure the push rod isn't adjusted so it's too long, a common problem when someone has altered the length. |
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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Wa-hillbilly Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2010 Posts: 65 Location: Auburn WA
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Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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you dont have to remove it to bench bled it,unhook the brake lines and screw in some other lines you can stick in a container of brake fluid,then pump the brakes,be careful not to empty the reservoir after a few pumps
most important be careful not to reuse contaminated fluid.
good luck |
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Gary Person of Interest
Joined: November 01, 2002 Posts: 17069 Location: 127.0.0.1
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Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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If you search on "Brake Bleed" in this forum you'll get more than enough hits to learn what to do, look for, and correct.
Other than that, bench bleeding is not necessary. You can gravity bleed the entire system. It takes longer, but you'll know the air is out of the system -- OR --
Build your own pressure system to power bleed the brake setup. Again, search and you'll get the answers you need. _________________ West Virginia State Board of Education v. Barnette, 319 U.S. 624 (1943) |
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Zundfolge1432 Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2004 Posts: 12466
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Posted: Thu Nov 25, 2010 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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The short answer is looking at Bentley you find zero references because the people that made the car thought it was not necessary... Why because the reservior is remote and sits at a higher level so gravity does this for you as you bleed the system... follow procedure farthest to nearest after taking slack out of show adjustment and you cannot fail
Look at the hard line going alongside drivers side near pedal cluster, this is most likely leak area .... |
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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bugninva Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004 Posts: 8858 Location: sound it out.
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Posted: Thu Dec 02, 2010 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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Brett Ross wrote: |
well i used the one man bleeder it works well but my brakes are still spongy so i will go ahead and replace the master cylinder because i bought it from BFY obsolete two yrs ago. Maybe they gave me a bad quality one without letting me know.... |
do you have a good manual for your car? you should get one...
Brett Ross wrote: |
I need to make sure I adjusted the rod |
the manual will tell you not to adjust the pushrod... for good reason, don't do that... if you already did, it can lead to poor brake performance... _________________
[email protected] wrote: |
With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone? |
GEX has. Just sayin |
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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bug1000000000 Samba Member
Joined: April 23, 2009 Posts: 261
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Posted: Fri Dec 03, 2010 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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Your master looks as nice as my Brazilian from Airhead, and my "best quality" Brax (Danish) from CIP. A mechanic friend (who doesn't have proximity to actually do my work for me) dissembled the new Brax (its rear circuit produced little pressure and fluid exited at the boot). He showed me (with some eye-straining) how the rear cup was not perfectly round. I've re-installed the Brazilian, tried now with the "hanging cup" self bleeder (having already purchased Speed Bleeders and the Motive Power Bleeder (determined not to keep asking my wife to pump the pedal)), to no avail.
Am done for the winter.
Will follow your progress with interest.
Joe |
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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Zundfolge1432 Samba Member
Joined: June 13, 2004 Posts: 12466
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Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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bugninva wrote: |
the manual will tell you not to adjust the pushrod... for good reason, don't do that... if you already did, it can lead to poor brake performance... |
As you are well aware the above statement taken from Bentley manual assumes you are working on an unaltered car and you are using ATE components and the pedal stop is in the factory set position....
In the real world you've got a 30,40 maybe more year old car that may have had pans replaced. pedal stop has been altered, pedal cluster may have been swapped from another car, cheap aftermarket master cylinder has been installed how many times in those last 40+ years and who can say if the pushrod has been altered already from factory setting????
For these reasons you can throw the Bentley manual out the window because you are going to have to set the freeplay yourself .... Without getting too detailed just make sure you have some slack as too tight will make brakes drag and in the extreme damage the piston inside the cylinder..
However too much clearance will just about guarranty you cant get all the air out because you never get a full travel on that piston inside the cylinder ..I am sorry to be the bearer of this bad news but because cars have been altered over the years you must check this and do not assume the push rod setting is correct... I like the Bentley manual but this is one area that is now obsolete because of previous busy hands and cheap parts..Check Bentley it gives that minmum free play setting, this and common sense will result in a successful brake job you can be proud of |
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bugninva Samba Member
Joined: December 14, 2004 Posts: 8858 Location: sound it out.
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Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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I agree with you on everything you said... However someone without experience should not muck with the pushrod in my opinion... then again, once they get it all out of whack, it's easy to pick up a car cheap...
a Haynes manual I bought as a teenager, had a good diagram and what the pedal stroke needed to be as well as the measurement for the rod... that was the old publication(with purple cover) and I loaned that out years ago and it never came back.... I bought a baja bug once that the owner messed with the pushrod... they went from locked wheels to no brakes and messed with it for a year... finally I bought it for 50 bucks and fixed it in ten minutes.... I measured the distance that the master cylinder took for full stroke, then backed off a bit for pedal flex, and used this measurement to set the pedal travel, then adjusted the rod for clearance... piece of cake... _________________
[email protected] wrote: |
With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone? |
GEX has. Just sayin |
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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wampe Samba Member
Joined: February 08, 2010 Posts: 579
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Posted: Sat Dec 25, 2010 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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I always adjust the brakes before bleeding. If there was any moisture in the brake system while it sat for two years, the bores in the master cylinder and wheel cylinders may be pitted from rust in which case they should be replaced. Are the front brakes disc or drum? Moisture messes up the caliper bores also. |
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BDSBSS23 Samba Member
Joined: January 03, 2008 Posts: 1817 Location: Colorado
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