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PPG dp epoxy primer
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Black58EuroBug
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 30, 2004 4:13 pm    Post subject: PPG dp epoxy primer Reply with quote

Hi!
I will be priming my Bug with the PPG DP Epoxy Primer Shocked as recommended by the body shop who will be painting my Beetle black.

I am wondering if there are any problems or recomendations with sanding spots of this primer afterwards. I might need to sand out runs in the primer or noticable minor body work over looked before painting. The primer will be applied over a combination of bare metal and ancient paint with minor thin filler over a few spots.

Also is there any problem with leaving the primer on the car for a few weeks before taking in to be painted? The primer and hardner were picked up for me but there were no spec sheets or instructions included with it as I've seen in the past with other primers and paint. However, I did get a life time supply of paper paint filters with it Rolling Eyes

Thanks any help or tips are appreciated!
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E-boyz67
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 12:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you have all the bodywork done and ready to paint. The DP is great for bare metal and corrosion protection but it not like a primer surfacer whereas it will fill some inperfections. If you shoot DP then I would apply a surfacer over that and block the surfacer to do some minor filling. The mixing raito is 100 parts DP and 50 parts 401-402. If using the 401 mix and let sit for 30 minutes then apply.
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should go to their site and download/print the MSDS sheets and the product information.

You can also get some of the compatable "reducer" and thin it a little, this also turns it into a 'sealer' and it makes it spray real smooth.

Yes, as the other post stated, you should apply a primer surfacer over the DP and sand that, finish finding the imperfections etc. before paint.

http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmHome.asp

The DP primer is particulary nasty as far as isocyanates and you definantly need to protect youself.

Make sure you have proper respiration equipment and cover your bare skin etc.
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Ipaintem
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 5:25 pm    Post subject: dp sealer Reply with quote

If it is the lead free version it mixes 2-1. 2 parts dp - 1 part 402 as e Boyz said. However if is the standard version it mixes 1-1.
Dp does not have any UV protection. If it stays outside the sun will destroy it in a few weeks. You must put at least 2 coats of K201 primer or compatable primer on top of the DP. DP is not intended to be sanded, it is a wet on wet sealer only. Be sure car is clean and dry. I say dry because high humidity will allow a thin layer of moisture on the car and if you prime over the moisture .... I think you know what happens!!!!


Good luck!!
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Big Jim
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 01, 2004 11:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DP can be sanded but you had better have a box of sandpaper. I did a hood and ended up away from it for a couple of weeks. I needed to sand it before coating it again. Once it cures, that stuff seems like it is only slightly softer than the steel underneath.
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Ol Vocho
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 03, 2004 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Take your project to bare metal. I like to bead blast with walnut/glass mediablasting, it's best to have a shop do this and a good time saver. If you're low on funds, you can steel wheel it to remove the paint. If you use paint remover, make sure there's none left on the project or steel wheel, or you'll have a contamination problem and it will bubble thru your DP. Clean with 330 degreaser and compressor air dry. Then shoot your project in DP Epoxy Primer. If you're painting Red, shoot DP 74LF, if black then DP 90, white then DP 48, etc. Sometimes the media blasting shop will shoot it for you, because the bare metal will start to rust almost immediately, depending on what time of year. When you get the DP on, you'll notice all the sheet metal imprefections. Then, once the DP is on the project, you can shoot K36 sandable primer on it. I mix some 870 in it for easier spraying. I like to lay the K36 on pretty thick, as it's for sanding. Keep it dry, out of the sun and out of any moisture. Now, you can go in and repair spots, sand and prep.
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Black58EuroBug
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 04, 2004 5:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I guess I just better be more than careful not to screw up and get a giant run Smile
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Black58EuroBug
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

One more question, can anyone tell me what the compatatable best high fill primer is to follow?

Thanks again!
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Black58EuroBug wrote:
One more question, can anyone tell me what the compatatable best high fill primer is to follow?

Thanks again!


It's best to stick with same brand products throughout the process.

go here and there is all the info you need on PPG products. Click on the product information tab...

http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmHome.asp
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