Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 1:13 pm Post subject:
Your right not to many VW in his shop lol
If you get a chance shoot a link for the windshield and mirrors I love them. I should have been working all winter and have this done but I put it off even with a heated garage I should be so much further just lazy lol. Plus I dropped a grand right at first on wheels and tires lol I need a plan and follow it. The tilt wheel is for my big ass will fit, I could not get in it when I first got it.
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 4365 Location: Northern California
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 2:12 pm Post subject:
zcliff wrote:
Good plan, what type product of epoxy all I am use to is the home depot shelf where it has the small tube and that would take a bunch of 'em
I will type in Epoxy glue and see what come up.
BTW I went to JEGS and looked at all the fiberglass hood and all were straight cut????
Now I have totally reinforced the entire area with several layers of mat and resin, I have a bolt of cloth to use lol.
I also added additional frame attached mounts to the glass body because of previous stress cracks like stars nothing much really.
With epoxy rails and glass mat this will also add strength to the corners.
Thanks for all suggestions and I mean all
Check with any marine supply places you might have nearby for epoxy adhesive.
I'm not sure which fiberglass hood on the Jegs page you're looking at specifically, but the problem isn't with the shape of the piece covering a hole, the problem is with the shape of the hole.
You don't cut square holes in stress panels! A bare VW floorpan will twist like a wet dog. The fiberglass body is what provides all the rigidity. If you cut a large square hole in a fiberglass body, all the twisting force will be concentrated in the corners of the hole. Sooner or later the square corners of the hole will crack. Did you read the link about the Comet airliner?
Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Thu Mar 24, 2011 4:20 pm Post subject:
Nope but you sold me on it buddy.
I got my epoxy cement from the Lowe's bought a couple of 8oz containers for $14.67ea kit. Have you seen the guy on You Tube that uses shredded fiberglass mat and made a slurry for filling holes like old tail lights and sand smooth and add coats of filler to finish? You have a backer and fill it with your mix and then sand.
Joined: December 19, 2004 Posts: 3767 Location: Frankfort, Illinois
Posted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 6:59 am Post subject:
zcliff wrote:
Its done, will post pics of rounded corners asap
WOW I like the hand operated wiper mount and the JC W kit, Silly but I like it I really do not plan on driving in rain. Famous last words.
Great Link Thanks
I have used my hand wiper more times then I like to think about. It comes in handy at night or early morning when you drive through a low area and the windshield fogs up. Not to mention just getting caught in the rain. _________________ Jerry...
If it's being towed, it must be a trailer!
The Southside Buggistas - Volkswagen & Kit Car Club
www.southsidebuggistas.com
Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2011 1:30 pm Post subject:
Well I am still alive and working on the hood, it's time to fiberglass the drip rails. I hope to get the pics posted asap.
I found that the foam that covers your copper pipes works excellent and the fiberglass mat and resin pulls away from it so easy. Leaving a fiberglass drip edge to be filled with more glass mat and resin.
Pics soon
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3069 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:21 am Post subject:
zcliff wrote:
Well I did it I used a air operated panel saw it was a easy and not messy at all.
[img][/img]
Then my bracket for my column is easy to pull out and finish.
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Now the big decision is to bolt the lid on or do I glass it on?????
Any ideas where to buy the plastic strip that goes between the body and the hood?
I hope I saved the old one
Next I need to fill in all the holes in the dash.
You should round your corners. Square corners create high stress points the crack easily.
Here is mine.
Jetta trunk lid. trimmed the rear "tail light" section then bolted it on. Fits like it was made for a Manx.
_________________ Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone
Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 6:34 am Post subject:
really Nice, I have the corners all rounded and have the drip edge in place. Just to damn busy to get pics, leaving town to see my grand daughters 2 and 3 yrs old.
When I get back I will cut loose the hood and then doing the finish glass work.
Where did those hinges come from, I thought of letting it open the same way???
Thanks for the great pics
Larry
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3069 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:25 pm Post subject:
Thanks. That is only a portion of the fuses. The panel they are on comes out with 3 screws to give access to the other fusebox abd the wiring etc. I used the bottom half of a fuel tank in front for storage.
The hinges are standard blum style kitchen cupboard hinges. The hood easily unsnaps.
_________________ Licensed Automotive Service Technician
Licensed Truck and Coach Technician
Licensed Heavy Duty Equipment Technician
CFC/HCFC/HFC A/C handling and installation license
Alignment specialist
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, 79 Bradley GT2
Current projects:
Built for others:69 Manx Clone
Last edited by dan macmillan on Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: August 29, 2006 Posts: 4365 Location: Northern California
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:08 pm Post subject:
dan macmillan wrote:
Thanks. That is only a portion of the fuses. The panel they are on comes out with 3 screws to give access to the other fusebox abd the wiring etc. I ised the bottom half of a duel tank in front for storage.
Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 8:21 pm Post subject:
I need to get the inside of the gas tank sand blasted, it cut in half easy with the panel saw. Problem was the steering column bracket was hitting the corner so I cut out the corner and will glass that. I was half ass tempted to bring the battery up front??? I need to relocate the battery so its easy to get to. Plans are to lift the body this week and paint the frame and fix the hand brake. The entire hand brake is missing. I replace the entire thing in my last buggy. Looking to have a key start in the center by the brake Like the wifes Saab Q97 ??
Need to locate some cool tail lights, thought going with the stock VW,, BUT I like what you have. Right now I have these 4" round LED 2 per side I just don't like this look. There will be lots of glass work lol.
Joined: October 19, 2003 Posts: 3069 Location: Northern Ontario, Canada
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 2:17 am Post subject:
A note on tail lights. Pay attention to the positioning of the reflector
in them. Make sure the light is shining rearward and not upward. I
used Cadi lights on this buggy, while they look sharp they are
ineffective when the sun is at your back. Almost got smoked by a
transport. I have since added an led strip under the wing where it is
in the shade and easily seen.
On my other buggy I used Sable wagon lights.
These are easily seen in the light.
Here is a video of a buggy with below surface {flush} led lights. They
are invisible when off. Due to the angle they are on, the relatively little
amount of light they produce when spaced out, and the fact there are
not many on it, I would be surprised if it lasts more than a week out
on the streets.
Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2011 11:42 am Post subject:
The sable lights are sweet too. I seen that video of that green buggy last years$$$$$$$ nice and then just a bit over the top and the lights do sound cool but very scary since your ass depends on some one seeing them in time to stop.
You have some incredible rides, I hope to have something half as good looking.
Thanks for the info.
Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:37 am Post subject:
The first pictures is of the inside showing the fiberglass coated drip rails
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[img]
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[img] here I removed the sponge material easily
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[img]
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[img]
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Now I need to pick the glass material best suited ( right side ) add 2 more layers. Sand and adjust hood.
Looking back and now seeing the gas tank will not fit, this is a game changer in respects to have this hinged. All I need is to have access to the area for wiring and storage. I really do not see the need to have it hinged,,, but that is the easy way out?????? I have a few days of work and the I will decide to hinge or not to hinge.
Joined: October 26, 2010 Posts: 52 Location: Michigan
Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:54 am Post subject:
Now,, once I get the drip rails all filled in with some 4 oz 2 layers this will stand up to anything. Consider the size of the sponge it made a little larger then needed drip rail. I figure all can be corrected some with sanding and fit hood and place back on saw horses and try to come up with a hinge fix. It just seems like the right thing to do, after all I wanted something different. I figure it will take a while filling all the old holes in the dash alone. Then extend the under the dash bottom bigger to help conceal wiring???
Open for suggestions,
Thanks, for sharing your great pics and awesome rides WOW just amazing rides you all have!!!!
Larry
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here I removed the sponge material easily
