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Coil wiring diagram for 1973 VW Beetle
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VWLover13
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 11:49 am    Post subject: Coil wiring diagram for 1973 VW Beetle Reply with quote

I took out the engine in my 73 bug a while back and now I put it back in. I got new points, new plugs, new rotor, new distributor cap, new wires, new coil. All the gaps setting is correct, cap is on tightly. The engine is turning over but NOT firing. We're getting about 11.5 volts to the coil on both sides of it (+ and -).

I can't figure out the problem. The only thing I can think of is that it's the wiring to the coil. There are 4 wires, and I have unhooked all of them from it. I need to know how to put them on correctly because I don't know.

We're starting at the coil so we can eliminate that and move on to the points.

I need help ASAP, because this is very frustrating Mad Thanks for any help!
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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VWLover13
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it!! Thanks a TON. That's all I needed and it cranked right up. Appreciate it! Cool
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keifernet
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWLover13 wrote:
Got it!! Thanks a TON. That's all I needed and it cranked right up. Appreciate it! Cool


Great... thanks to Glenn... it's a diagram he has on his site and has linked too many times... I just dug it up from one of his bazillion posts Razz Laughing Wink
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1973vwbeetle112
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what may be the problem if everything is connected right but still no start?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2011 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1973vwbeetle112 wrote:
what may be the problem if everything is connected right but still no start?


IF key is on and there is continuous voltage (12 volts) at terminal 1 of coil while engine is being cranked the problem is either between coil and distribuitor or actually in distribuitor

Points may not closing when rubbing block is supposed to be off the cam lobe in distribuitor.... Or broken wire between coil and points in distribuitor...

Dale
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nsracing
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 10:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh come on, Dale. Do you really think the engine will start if the points stayed closed?
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Dale M.
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PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2011 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

nsracing wrote:
Oh come on, Dale. Do you really think the engine will start if the points stayed closed?


Quote:
Points may not [be] closing when rubbing block is supposed to be off the cam lobe in distribuitor



I think you may want to read my statement again..... I believe I mentioned if point did not close there would always be 12 volts on points side of coil when cranking motor...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
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1973vwbeetle112
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PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2011 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

the points were bad. now asking if you know why a loud knocking and will not stay on and high idle.
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Dazzlarock
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After a few hours in M1 services with the AA scratching their heads last weekend, and then buying several parts and installing them yesterday and today with no results, i was feeling a trip to the garage with defeat writen on my face coming on, then at the end of the day I was looking at this wonderful diagram and realised I'd wired the coil up wrong. The van has now just started strait up so big thanks for this post. But now do I take the other bits off i bought to see if it was just the coil or just go for a spin with the smile back on my face. Cheers again.
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