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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 8:02 pm Post subject: Cimbria Build - 1600cc Rayjay turbo |
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Here is a few things im working with:
-1969 VW Beetle chassis- With dropped floor pans
-1500cc- Unknown miles, Engine code starts with H5 which is a 68 or 69 motor so it maybe the original motor
-RayJay Turbo Kit- Installed, Have the kit install manual and records of where they stopped the project.
-Have Cimbria Manual, Cimbria SS manual and the Rayjay turbo manual which really helps me out.
Well I seen this project on craigslist and could not pass it up since i've never seen one before or even new what it was.
I did a bit of research and found out I have a Cimbria, not a Cimbria SS of which I actually would of much rather preffered cause of entry clearance and increased rigidity. The easiest way tell if its a Cimbria is the door sill is much higher than the Cimbria SS making it much more difficult to get out of the vehicle.
Ill post more on the project soon along with all the stuff that came with it.
Meanwhile here are some pics of project.

Last edited by Cimbria69 on Wed Aug 24, 2011 11:21 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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66 Shorty Samba Member

Joined: May 10, 2007 Posts: 794 Location: Rhode Island
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Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 4:10 am Post subject: |
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Looks like a Great Start Man!
Keep us up-dated! _________________ ~X-Man~
'66 Custom Shortened Bus (on the back burner)
'60's Spatz Buggy body on '74 Chassis (Budget Build)
'04 Bug (Womans daily)
'00 Blazer (My daily) |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 2735
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Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:47 am Post subject: |
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Nice project...right up my wheelhouse.
I think that floor drop needs some work. In its current set up it looks like you would need to keep your entire leg raised to keep the foot on the gas peddle. I think you want your slope back up to peddle level to occur more near your knee joint.
I would also strongly suggest moving that shifter and e-brake back a good 6-8". It would make driving so much easier and you wouldn't need that stupid huge bent shifter that most kits use. |
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didget69 Samba Member

Joined: July 22, 2004 Posts: 2806 Location: Capital, North Carolina
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Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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Nice find - this is one kit that I would definitely look into having David Barrett build a chassis for to get rid of the standard VW tunnel...
bnc _________________ Internet listed credentials impress no one but Mom... |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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Well I took the time to look at the blueprints for the floor pans and the Cimbria calls for a 4" drop by 36'' long while the Cimbria SS has a 4" drop and 38" long. Well these were custom and they have the 4" drop but are 48" long. I will have to see where the seats put me at, the location to the pedals might be fine, but not sure. The pedals are suppose to stay in the stock location but the shifter and brake handle has an option of moving it back 5" with the drawings available but I may move it back further still.
As for starting over with a whole new custom built chassis, bigger engine, etc... That would be nice indeed but would turn it into a project that would require much more $$ plus I would have to have someone else to most of the work. But that would be a great option down the road after its done and want more power.
Im still waiting on my fuel pressure regulator and gauge before i try and start it again. I was trying to turn her over before when I had the mechanical fuel pump on there and I had some combustion with starting fluid and the starter cranking it so hopefully this new fuel pump setup with get this running. Dont have the gas tank for it so I will have to use a little red gas tank for now. |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Thu Jul 07, 2011 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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| If this engine runs decent I will be replacing the points right away and the generator to an alternator down the road as well as udgrading the cooling and filtering components. Anyone got sugestions for a good oil cooler kit, oil pump, oil filter instead of these rediculous strainers!? |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Mon Jul 11, 2011 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Well since I am still waiting on my fuel pressure regulator and the gauge of which I am getting a bit impatient about so I will post some more of the stuff that came with the project all of which I will use on the build.
Might anyone know what vehicle these taillights come from? These are definelty not for the Cimbria but will look awsome indeed.
The original lights that match the ones in the manuals and advertising pics for the Cimbria.
Cool fiberglass bucket seats came with the build, not sure if they are for the Cimbria kit or aftermarket. They cleaned up nicely.
The oringinal seat rails for the Cimbria kit. Im missing one so i'm using a modified one from a honda del sol that I had laying around, it will sit slightly higher by about a 1/4in so i'll just shim up the other side with washers. At least I got both the adjusting rails.
Every VDO gauge possible for this vw setup along with some of the sending units. IF.. the turbo runs good I may also get an air/fuel gauge and have a o2 fitting welded after the exhaust collector. Just maybe...
New shocks of unknown manufacture date, missing a bushing and three sets of hardware... awwww lol
Classic looking steering wheel. The seems of the "tounge and groove" sections of the wood don't really line up but I love the look of the this wheel, im gonna try and polish up all of the metal on it.
The original dash and face, center console, and rear window channel all made of fiberglass for the Cimbria. I will have to wrap the dash, face and center console with leather or vinyl.
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CoryN Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2008 Posts: 390 Location: DFW
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:48 am Post subject: |
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| those taillights remind me of the Pontiac Astre - the Pontiac version of the Vega |
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Genom Samba Member

Joined: January 03, 2003 Posts: 644 Location: Long Island, N.Y.
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:05 am Post subject: |
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Taillights look like 1974 Pontiac Ventura or 67-68 Firebird. _________________ They call me James... |
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Square73 Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2008 Posts: 182 Location: Ohio
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Cimbria69
I love the old steering wheel. I have one I picked up at a swap meet that the wood was so dry it crumbled if you handled it much. i soaked it for a week or 2 in mineral oil and it's coming back to life, the wood has solidified quite a bit. It's also swollen to where the joints fit better, still not perfect, but acceptable. If anyone has a better way to save the wood, chime in.
Nice project ! _________________ There's not a pill you can take. There's not a class you can go to. Stupid is fo-evah. Ron White |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:21 am Post subject: |
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| Cool guys thanks, those look exactly like the ventura tailights. |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 2735
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:22 am Post subject: |
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Lights definitely look like your garden variety trailer lights. Might be a nice time to upgrade.
Adjusters are only $20 a pair from Speedway so no worries there.
Same with the shocks. Cheap enough.
Wooden steering wheel doesn't seem to fit the decor to be honest. I would sell it.
Seats are your standard laid back fiberglass units. A little extra well placed foam will make them more comfy.
You will need to do some glass work for those lights to fit I assume? |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 9:31 am Post subject: |
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Haha the lights do look like some chromed out trailer lights indeed.
Seats will need some more padding for sure.
Im gonna rock the classic steering wheel for now.
Yea I will need some glasswork to make the lights fit, one side was done up halfway.
As for the shocks I am going to look into some new ones. Anyone suggest a good set? I want to keep it low and stiff so it wont bottom out if that possible with these suspension setups. |
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pudlo Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2007 Posts: 85 Location: west IL
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 2735
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 10:24 am Post subject: |
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Cheap shocks are best. Oil filled not gas. The stock suspensions are stiff enough. You will rattle your teeth out before you bottom out.
I am not sure what the diameter of that stock wheel is but I would say a 13" wheel is about max what your gonna want to use. I just picked up a 12" for my Avenger.
This is a 13" in my old Sterling:
and a 12" in my old Manta:
Rick might be able to say more precisely about anything greater than 13" as my cars have been long gone for a while now. |
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Letterman7 Samba Member

Joined: March 14, 2004 Posts: 1914 Location: Downingtown, PA
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 11:18 am Post subject: |
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I ws holding back until I saw where the thread was going. Looks like a nice project.. double check that the doors close and are gapped right before doing any other work. If they need to be straightened or fixed, now's the time to do it.
As for the steering wheel... personal preference in relation to physical "person" size. I've run a wheel as large as 13.5", but it had a flat bottom to it in one of my Sterlings; my current one I'm bumping from 12" to 12.75" just so I can see the damn instruments! I'd say get your interior straight first with the seats, etc, etc then worry about the wheel. You can easily cut out circles in cardboard in different widths to see which one seems to work for you the best, then find a wheel that you like from there. _________________ www.nationalsterling.org
www.tamartedesign.com |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 2:27 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the insight on all these different issues guys this is great. This project of mine has quite a bit of work needed. Im gonna have to pull the body and complete the support rails that support the front and rear bumper as well as the body so it wont flex fall apart when i get it on the road.
The doors and roof are a nightmare. I am thinking of fabricating a cage inside to support the windshield pillars/roof cause the first place you want to grab to get out of the car is the roof, then snap there goes my windshield.
As for the doors, one is flush and already glassed in with some galvanized door hinges that you would use around the home...... AHHHH
The driver side was never completed, sits higher and has a huge amount of roof cut away to recess the hinge. I will have to rethink the hinge design and do something better. |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 5:20 pm Post subject: |
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| Ok so I finally got sick of waiting around for my fuel press reg and the gauge so I just said f*** it and rigged it all up and she started right up the first time. I only ran it for a short time as I noticed the crank pulley was wobbling all out of alignment. I also had troubles giving it gas as it would just pop and die, then excess fuel was laying in the intake inlet. Maybe a bad carb? This whole turbo kit was installed maybe 20 some years ago so maybe all the seals are old, the carb is one that came with the Rayjay kit. The engine also died out at idle after it was starting to warm up a bit but would stay running with a little throttle increase. |
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jspbtown Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2004 Posts: 2735
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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| You are gonna have your hands full with that motor. |
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Cimbria69 Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2011 Posts: 21 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2011 8:00 pm Post subject: |
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| Haha thanks for the encouragement, I like a challenge. I'll have to look into getting a new carb for this setup. |
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