Joined: January 04, 2007 Posts: 90 Location: california
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 8:53 pm Post subject: my 1974 tintop westy...with pics and engine problem
Up until yesterday my bus was running rather well; driving all over creation including up and down Big Bear, CA. It's a '74 tintop westy with a recent rebuilt 2.0L (PO said it was rebuilt by one of the guys at Fat Performance). Prior to driving 1500 miles, I did a tuneup and valve adjustment. A friend did say that after my valve adjustment, a couple of my valves sounded a lil loose.
Anywho, I heard some clanking noises coming from the engine compartment. Noticed the alternator was loose but the bolt was tightened. Also noticed that the vacuum hose to my SVDA distributor had come off the vacuum tee. I tee'd back the vac line.
Started her up again and it was still clanking but as I rev'd the motor the sound went away. I let it idle and then it died.
Motor is not seized. Starter turns the motor over. Nothing leaks other than the normal oil leak. Motor doesn't catch and fire. I checked for spark from the coil itself and from each spark plug wire and I'm getting spark.
Then I checked the spark plugs themselves. #1 was dry; #2 was a tiny bit wet from fuel, #3 and #4 were drenched in fuel.
Dried out the spark plugs, and tried again. No luck.
Any ideas? (sorry for the long post)
Last edited by frankenwabbit on Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:34 pm; edited 7 times in total
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 17550 Location: State Capitol CA (Sacramento)
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:05 pm Post subject:
you have some messes to clean up before you try to start again. That is what I see.
Start with fixing the alternator or whatever else is clanking. _________________ Steve aka Merlin the Wrench
formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.
bdamico on GF wrote
Quote:
"When I was your age I'd plan out all sorts of stuff for the future and almost none of them came true. Just wonder if it's worth trying to be a crystal ball. "
Last edited by SGKent on Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 13063 Location: Arizona
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:06 pm Post subject:
After driving the 1500 miles I'd carefully check the valves again. Adjust if necessary and keep a record of any gap adjustments you make. Any of the three routes up to Big Bear are real demanding on a bus and it might have gotten fairly hot. _________________ The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley
Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:50 pm Post subject:
Well now. What I hear there sounds to me like air going in and out of every cylinder and no compression. That's ...that's concerning. It's either a nice pair of badly warped heads, blown out head gaskets (If yours has them), a complete set of holed pistons, valves unable to close for some reason or ???
You did that with the spark plugs in right? Without plugs in an engine tends to sound like that.
Also is it out of fuel? usually facets have that kind of rattle only when there is no fuel. _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
seems its spins with very low compression, id check that, could be shreded cam, valve train issue or something like that... _________________ "Sé que en algún lugar sus dedos pelean con un tornillo" (Remembering Carlos Amat)
"Si quiero estar encabronado
hazte a un lado...cabrón!"
Joined: January 07, 2007 Posts: 4083 Location: The tropic of Canada, dodging the giant flying moose of Surrey!
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:04 pm Post subject:
Hmmm, it didn't actually sound like low compression to my ear. The cranking seemed even across all cylinders. Pull off the valve covers and have a look. Have you tried starting it with your foot into the throttle a bit? See if that gets it going at least. You need to do some investigating, but I have a funny feeling you will be okay. _________________ *****************
"I will gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today."
Last edited by Westfabulous on Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:10 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: January 04, 2005 Posts: 927 Location: SF Bay Aria / Silicon & Central Valley
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:27 pm Post subject:
To me it sounds like it’s not firing at all ;0), IMO due to fouling perhaps or maybe incorrect timing (too many lose items already re-check it…) as others have already said, readjust valve in case you have open valves causing lack of compression, re-check the plugs for fouling, if any fuel is present on plugs; disconnect power to coil and crank the engine with plugs out to make sure there aren’t any fuel puddles in the cylinders. (When I get any fouled plugs, I pull them all, clean them, then heat the tips on my gas stove to burn off any contaminants, let them cool, then re install them) to try to solve the fouling, check your fuel pressure, take the carbs apart and clean them out, check floats… also make sure your carb linkage is synced correctly, try again. If that does not work you could do a leak down test and see if that turns anything up… _________________ Current VWs 71 T2 Westy SO-72/6(Miami), 71 Crew Cab, 72 KG GT;0) 12 JSW TDI
Other owned VW’s 59, 68 1500s, 69 & 71 Bug’s; 72 & 73 S-Bug’s; 67 Westy, 67 Deluxe, Other 71 DC
VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/ http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm
Last edited by Lionhart94010 on Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: November 13, 2008 Posts: 3307 Location: Australia
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:09 pm Post subject:
I spent a lot of time listening to a non-firing engine the past few days, and that sounds like a lot more than that.
Have you tried hand cranking the engine using whatever means you have? Probably not the best way but I use some variety of spanner or socket and bar on the alternator pulley. See how much of a fight the engine puts up on each compression stroke. It should take a reasonable amount of effort to turn it during compression strokes. Ie once every 1/2 turn of the crank.
While you are at it pop the distributor cap and make sure the rotor is rotating.
That whistle really does sound reciprocal to me. I've heard similar under a few circumstances. Check _everything_ _________________ Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.
Joined: January 04, 2007 Posts: 90 Location: california
Posted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:11 pm Post subject:
Plugs were fouled because I was pumping the gas pedal repeatedly. Anywho...I'm gonna start with a valve adjustment first and go through each thing one at a time.
In the meantime...pics of the bus.
interior was pretty thrashed so I got some WCM foam; washed the fabric; hand stitched the loose welts and tears; and re did the seats.
Also redid the steering wheel. It looked like the Death Star. JB weld, paint, and leather wrap on the steering wheel done wonders. Also redid all the horn wiring. Ugh.
Oh...and I have one of these! York compressor is missing, but lines, condensor, evaporator, etc are intact.
OK, so you have a 2 liter engine. Does it have solid lifters or hydraulic? You did not say which and if you try to adjust the hydraulics the same way you do solids, it will not be the same, and vice-versa. Hope you get it solved, that looks like a sweet ride to me. Peace
Joined: January 14, 2010 Posts: 428 Location: NYC area
Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 9:53 am Post subject:
IN regards to the AC - I have the compressor out -
there should be a hole where it was, drivers side rear near battery.
search sneakyjack and my thread will come up with some pics.
Joined: February 08, 2005 Posts: 1847 Location: The OC, Calif.
Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 10:41 am Post subject:
Question here: Do tin top camper have wood or vinyl head liners? _________________ Werksberg Products....Products that work!
I will NOT be going to BOR Sac. on May 26th as I hurt my back last weekend prepping my van!
Follow my new products on my Facebook Werks Berg
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Joined: January 04, 2007 Posts: 90 Location: california
Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 10:54 am Post subject:
sneakyjack wrote:
IN regards to the AC - I have the compressor out -
there should be a hole where it was, drivers side rear near battery.
search sneakyjack and my thread will come up with some pics.
Nice front seats.
Thanks! I just re-used the same seat covers. I wasn't about to spend 300 on new seat covers. There were some fabric tears, vinyl welt/piping coming off so I took care of it by hand-stitching as best as I could.
As for the AC, I'll definitely look at your pics I'm considering not using a York compressor...maybe run a more modern compressor but have the compressor sit above the motor and run the belt north/south to a modified smog pulley.
Joined: June 03, 2005 Posts: 13063 Location: Arizona
Posted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 1:34 pm Post subject:
werksberg wrote:
Question here: Do tin top camper have wood or vinyl head liners?
Wood ceiling. BTW, it's steel and not tin. And it's not a plastic top either. _________________ The best thing that anyone can do for their Bay is get the Volkswagen of America Official Service Manual published by Robert Bentley. Without it the bus is pretty much doomed.
73kombi wrote:
when that red light goes on, you have to make a choice.
Amskeptic wrote:
I am not answering that.
Respectfully,
GoBuyABentley
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And it's not a plastic top either.