Author |
Message |
ferret963 Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2011 Posts: 15 Location: Powell, WY
|
Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 7:37 am Post subject: Oil Strainer Step Stud Question |
|
|
Having just purchased my first VW, I proceeded to change the oil. When I did it two of the studs threaded out of the block with the nut firmly attached to the end. I plan on doing the step stud fix with the 8mm 1.25 to a 6mm 1. I have read extensively on the form about this fix. When I went to NAPA to get the step stud they wanted to know how long of one to order. So I was wondering how long the step stud should be to perform this fix? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vw_hank Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2001 Posts: 5371 Location: Everett WA
|
Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 1:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
STOP!!!!!!!!
Do not use the step studs unless the holes Are striped.. just put them back in with lock-tight. _________________ 1302s sunroof..
1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
rockerarm Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 3552 Location: Los Angeles
|
Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 2:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
If in fact the threads in the case are stripped, the stepped stud is a legitimate repair. Done them at dealers and independents alike. But you have options. There is a gent up in Washington, Rockey Jennings, I believe, has a 7mm x 6mm stepped stud available that he makes himself. He is a regular contributor here. Also, TimeSert makes a kit. Ray Greenwood commented last week on a different thread repair that he endorses and he is well respected here on this and other VW sites. Just be sure the threads are indeed stripped.
Hope this helps, Bill |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vw_hank Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2001 Posts: 5371 Location: Everett WA
|
Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 2:41 pm Post subject: |
|
|
almost every VW parts distributor sells the step studs, I dont know If you have A ACE hardware store were you live? but all the ones around hear sell the step studs. I beleve thy are 1" long? _________________ 1302s sunroof..
1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ferret963 Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2011 Posts: 15 Location: Powell, WY
|
Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Ok, well I double checked and you are right. None of the threads are stripped, the studs all just keep threading up into the block and are 6mm... it turns our 5 of the studs come out this way, one doesn't. If I do lock tite them, how will I know the studs are in the right position? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
rockerarm Samba Member
Joined: December 16, 2009 Posts: 3552 Location: Los Angeles
|
Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 4:40 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Good, that you determined their are no damaged threads. One stud holds the oil pick up tube down and won't move unless its nut is loosened. The original threads must be tapped in a way that as the proper stud is installed it tightens as it gets to the proper position. This position corresponds to the stud protruding out approx 10mm or 3/8" below the gasket surface. This is about the thickness of two 6mm nuts. I would not use locktite unless excessive looseness is experienced as future removal is more laborious. The distance the stud sticks out is based on the use of a strainer, two gaskets, plate, and cap nut.
Hope this helps, Bill. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
vw_hank Samba Member
Joined: February 07, 2001 Posts: 5371 Location: Everett WA
|
Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 5:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The way I do it is:
1. clean the bottom of the motor good! and git up in the holes, use Q-tips to clean the threads out.
2. Put the cap nuts on the studs, finger tight.
3. put the drain plate, both gaskets, and the stranger in place using the stud thats still in place, put the cap nut & copper washer on to hold it all up.
4. put A drop of lock-tight on the end of the lose studs and screw them in with "NO" copper washer! finger tight.
5. after you have them all on snug them down, DO NOT torque them at all,, just snug..
6. after thy have sat long enough for the lock-tight to dry, remove the cap nuts one at A time and install the copper washer, and torque to 5 foot pounds..
That's it
The lock-tight well stop them from coming out every time you do A oil change
The reason I add the copper washer last Is to insure that when you torque the cap nuts thy dont bottom out on the stud _________________ 1302s sunroof..
1600cc motor. Glenn ring 010. full toplineparts.com suspension. factory front disk brakes. Tram type-3 rear brakes. Hurst shifter. empi-8's. low-back's. tons of mods! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Glenn Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 76902 Location: Sneaking up behind you
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ferret963 Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2011 Posts: 15 Location: Powell, WY
|
Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 1:16 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks everyone for the help. I did what you said hank and so far no leaks. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|