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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:17 pm Post subject: |
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I was actually looking at Eastwood's site this afternoon for something and it looks like they have a product that is stable for heat. Rust Encapsulator; seems like kind of a gimmick, but I think if I clean it out real well and maybe treat it with some Picklex20 or Ospho first it will work.
I haven't found just the nozzle/hose by themselves. I tossed the one I used for the tunnel as it was all waxy when I was done.
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-rust-encapsulator-w-ext-nozzle-black.html
Vlad - Maybe after I use it, I can salvage the nozzle and send it to you. I doubt sending the can would make it through customs as they open everything in AU. My mom lives there and every present is always torn open a little. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Sat Sep 10, 2011 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Question about front end camber:
I can spin the upper ball joint on the right side all the way around and it doesn't really change the camber at all. The left side is at about 1* positive but the right won't change from about 2.5* positive no matter what I do.
It's a rolling pan, I've tried on jackstands (level) and with wheels on. No difference.
I know the body should be on and loaded per Bentley, but I just wanted to get it close to equal between the two sides.
I definitely had some damage to the beam bearings with the original beam, I used the original spindles with the replacement beam. Should I be concerned about a bent spindle? Or would I even be able to tell without the car loaded?
Thanks. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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vlad01 Samba Member

Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 2088 Location: Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 5:25 am Post subject: |
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I would check the control arms and spindle on the side that had the damaged bearing.
Thanks for the link above. I could use that after chemical tanking the whole car. There is a trade school in the city that have a EPD facility for training purposes.
Dam that would be sweet if I could somehow get my car body in for a demo  |
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:37 am Post subject: |
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| vlad01 wrote: | I would check the control arms and spindle on the side that had the damaged bearing.
Thanks for the link above. I could use that after chemical tanking the whole car. There is a trade school in the city that have a EPD facility for training purposes.
Dam that would be sweet if I could somehow get my car body in for a demo  |
Chem dip would be the way to go. Abrasive media like sand, coal slag, whatever is really hard to get out of all the little hidden pockets.
I starting to think maybe one of the control arms or spindles is bent a little. Even if the car needs to be loaded to fine tune, it seems like I should be able to set the sides relatively equal. Drop spindles will be on the way soon, so maybe I'll just swap out control arms. Ugh, what a PITA. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 3:57 pm Post subject: |
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I was using a magnetic angle finder, the kind that has a dangling pendulum type indicator.
Here's the update:
Today on my way home I picked up a digital magnetic level that's accurate to .1 degree.
On the right side the range of motion is 3.1 to 3.8 degrees, where on the left side the range is 1.6 to 2.4 degrees. This is with the wheels off and the using the level against the face of the rotor. I spun the rotor 180 degrees while checking to make sure these were the min and max limits. They're both above spec WRT Bentley, but I'd expect that as they are totally unloaded. Seems I should be able to get them equal in these conditions. I did not re-calibrate the level between sides as I wanted to keep any error the same between sides.
I know the ball joints are good (they're new) and moving as they should. Something else is going on that I can't get the sides equal. When I put the beam back together I followed the Bentley precisely and torqued everything to spec.
That's what's leaving me to think something is bent. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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vlad01 Samba Member

Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 2088 Location: Australia
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Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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check the level of the beam using a precision level both horizontally and vertically at both ends of the beam. God knows where on the beam is a suitable and reliable point to measure it.
Then get the control arm levels exactly the same, then re check the caster/camber.
If you try to go initially off the bulkhead/pan then there might be variation through the rubber collars. |
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supaninja Samba Member

Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 3974 Location: houston
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Sun Sep 11, 2011 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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| supaninja wrote: | | I'm going to be doing the exact same thing to mine after I pull the body off next month. |
Can't wait to follow this one. My car was fortunate to have about zero rust (on the body at least), but I found all kinds of mechanical stuff wrong. Then again, I'm really anal about having all the parts clean and installed right.
| supaninja wrote: | Keep us posted, and I want pics dang nabbit!  |
Since I'm going for a do-over on the camber adjustment I'll take some pics of how I do it. Seems my garage isn't quite level which could be contributing to the problem.
BTW, I spent 6 hours on Sat. removing my sound deadener, what a mess. After a few more hours of reading reviews and such I decided that the Fatmat just wasn't up to par for this car. This guy seems to know his stuff and has good support so I'm considering this system:
http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Price wouldn't be too bad considering you only cover 25% with the tiles. Then foam over that, then the vinyl layer. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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supaninja Samba Member

Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 3974 Location: houston
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vlad01 Samba Member

Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 2088 Location: Australia
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 1:14 am Post subject: |
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attention to detail is king! but can be a pain in the ass, especially if you learn how to do something better latter on.
Latter you find yourself redoing a job that you thought was perfect but no longer is anymore.  |
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 3:52 pm Post subject: |
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Ok, here's some pics.
I tried to readjust the camber again today but no success.
First I calibrated the digital level on the kitchen counter, calibrating a level with a level :
Then checked across the top of the shock mounts; off a little but not too bad:
Then I adjusted by bundling up some rags under the jackstands. The wood clamps are holding the top control arm still and the ball joints in place as the ball joints seem to like to back out a little as I turn them.
Now the beam is level in three places (across shock mounts, across top of beam, and across middle of beam):
Then I re-index the level vertically against the garage wall, double checking with another level:
Right wheel is 3.7 to 2.9 degrees:
Left wheel is 2.5 to 2.0 degrees:
Both bottom ball joints are pointed straight forward:
Then I switched upper ball joints from side to side. Makes no difference. I can visually tell the top of the right wheel sticks out to far and has too much positive camber.
Am I doomed? Suggestions please. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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supaninja Samba Member

Joined: July 03, 2010 Posts: 3974 Location: houston
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Mon Sep 12, 2011 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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The shocks are actually rear shocks. I picked up a set of 4 NOS Boge oil filled shocks. Problem is they are all rears and have the long spacer at the bottom. I had to push out the spacer and shorten it. Just haven't gotten around to the other one. If I happen to have a bent control arm or something, it's one less thing to take apart.
This is driving me nuts. My old beam had a broken bearing on the driver side, now it's the passenger side where I can't get the camber right.
Thinking about swapping out control arms, but then I have to drive all the way to Oakland to get some. Bah. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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vlad01 Samba Member

Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 2088 Location: Australia
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 1:49 am Post subject: |
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lol that ain't a precision level the one i use at work can measure 0.2mm per meter of deviation (in the order of 100th of a deg). it costs around a 1000 buk for one though and it ain't digital.
calibrating against a kitchen bench? lol
see if you can hire one from an engineer or some one like that.
Anyways looks like u have a problem somewhere if you can visually see the difference in camber. Is the control arm angles the same on both sides? |
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:44 am Post subject: |
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| vlad01 wrote: | lol that ain't a precision level the one i use at work can measure 0.2mm per meter of deviation (in the order of 100th of a deg). it costs around a 1000 buk for one though and it ain't digital.
calibrating against a kitchen bench? lol
see if you can hire one from an engineer or some one like that.
Anyways looks like u have a problem somewhere if you can visually see the difference in camber. Is the control arm angles the same on both sides? |
I'm not trying to get it perfect. Just wanted to get it close, and no matter what I do the sides are off about 1.5 degrees from each other. I'll take it to shop that has the equipment to align properly when I'm done. But to be off that much, something seems wrong.
The control arm angles are the same. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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Bobnotch Samba Member

Joined: July 06, 2003 Posts: 10633 Location: Kimball, Mi
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vlad01 Samba Member

Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 2088 Location: Australia
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 2:38 pm Post subject: |
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bent spindle is also likely as someone could of easily driven into a gutter.
Isn't that one with too much camber on the side the gutter is on? |
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:04 pm Post subject: |
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| vlad01 wrote: | bent spindle is also likely as someone could of easily driven into a gutter.
Isn't that one with too much camber on the side the gutter is on? |
Yep. Gutter on the right. I'm pretty comfortable driving a LHD too as I lived in Japan for 4 years.
I picked up a 'new' rotor to rotor beam today and will start cleaning it up this weekend. It was a good buy, as I wanted a set of calipers for my wife's Ghia. Also the tie rods have the clamp on one end instead of those funny lock tabs.
Let's just hope this one wasn't driven in a gutter. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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vlad01 Samba Member

Joined: October 27, 2010 Posts: 2088 Location: Australia
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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could be an excuse for a Bert drop spindles ey?  |
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Brent Samba Member

Joined: April 28, 2010 Posts: 996 Location: Yokosuka, Japan
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Posted: Tue Sep 13, 2011 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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| vlad01 wrote: | could be an excuse for a Bert drop spindles ey?  |
Yep. I've ordered a pair. They're supposed to ship this week, I think. _________________ 69 Fastback Build (Doris) |
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