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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For a replacement engine check this place out
http://vw-offroadmotors.com/
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How reputable is this place?
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vanagonjr
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 4:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BillWYellowstone wrote:

Mine will cruise at 75, right at about 4k on the tach.

But your van is water cooled .
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you guys don't mind, I will use this thread to document my experience with Vagon, and ask you questions, that way I don't have to open up more threads, and clutter up the forum. Laughing
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psych-illogical
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good luck with the whole adventure that is being a Vanagon owner. I'm not too familiar with the air cooled motors in these things but I wonder if they have the same issue with valve lifters loosing their prime and tapping (knocking). Checking your valve adjustment would be a good thing to do. At any rate, I'd definitely stick with the 20-50 oil in any air cooled motor. That's all I run in my BMWs and that's what I ran in my air cooled bugs. From what I've read I'd stay the hell away from the Lucas oil treatment too. BTW, my waterboxer (when it was brand new) ran pretty weak and I discovered my cat was pretty well plugged up. Put on a new one and the difference was amazing.
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just replaced my pushrod tubes, and I hope they adjusted my valves... =( I would hope they would adjust the valves at the same time.
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

psych, it also only knocks on throttle blips or initial hard acceleration Crying or Very sad
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Spinal Tap
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a1fa wrote:
psych, it also only knocks on throttle blips or initial hard acceleration Crying or Very sad


I'm no expert, and hopefully they'll chime in, but it sounds like it's going lean, which could be causing the knocking. If that is the case, I would think that either the fuel injection system isn't up to snuff (O2 sensor, AFM, maybe even injectors), or you've got a big-ole air leak, or your timing is too far advanced. Or all three. But that's a guess from 800 miles away, from a guy with no air-cooled experience.

Good luck!
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a hole in my EGR, which could be leaning it out?
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SSWesty
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could use this thread to sanity the performance you are seeing compared to others. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=306851&highlight=3050

Good luck with your trouble shooting.
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to replace all of the vaccuum hoses that are original. I would.check all the other rubber parts for cracks, I bet they have them by now. The egr filter needs to be replaced or removed and blocked off. You are lean right now that maybe the reason for the knocking on accelerating. These have hydraulic lifters like the wbxr so they bleed down if sitting. Get a Bently, you really need to start doing own work. Not many people know aircooled vw anymore.
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

reluctantartist wrote:
You need to replace all of the vaccuum hoses that are original. I would.check all the other rubber parts for cracks, I bet they have them by now. The egr filter needs to be replaced or removed and blocked off. You are lean right now that maybe the reason for the knocking on accelerating. These have hydraulic lifters like the wbxr so they bleed down if sitting. Get a Bently, you really need to start doing own work. Not many people know aircooled vw anymore.


Thank you. Is there a kit I can order for all vacuum hoses? My vacuum rubber elbow is already rotted out, and I had to zip-tie it. A trip to various store parts, and no one has it. I'd rather replace all of them.
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molybdanum
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 6:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the elbow I think you mean 022-129-637 also frequently the intake boot is cracking/torn PN 071-129-967 and the throttle body gasket is leaking pn 022-133-073 A plug those numbers into the search on airheadparts.com. quality vacuum hose can be had at just about any vw or german car shop the flaps will have stuff that can work in a pinch but often are ignorant to metric sizes.

-Dan
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got the oil changed to 20W50 with a quart of Lucas oil treatment... In the mean time, a friend of mine welded the hole in the exhaust where EGR rusted off.. It runs better, but still runs kind of rough until it warms up. It seems like the oil plate is leaking a bit now. I even cleaned it, and area around it... Evil or Very Mad I didn't over tighten it.. It feels like it would strip or skip if it is any tighter..???? Question
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is my cold start:

http://youtu.be/A2CEbesMESw

Embarassed

At first, starting with no gas, and then later, at 1:27+, I am using gas to keep the engine moving... and then just idling.. is this common?
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reluctantartist
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That oil plate is only to be torqued to 9 lbs max. That is not very much and if it breaks the whole engine needs to be torn down. You really need a torque wrench to tighten it. Also you still need to block off the egr location on the air distributor otherwise you still have a vacuum leak. Most likely the rubber elbow the rubber Y (brake booster, decel valve, air distributor rubber splitter) and probably your pcv valve are leaking too. All of these things need to be looked at. Do you have a Hanes or Bentley manual?
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 9:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

reluctantartist wrote:
That oil plate is only to be torqued to 9 lbs max. That is not very much and if it breaks the whole engine needs to be torn down. You really need a torque wrench to tighten it. Also you still need to block off the egr location on the air distributor otherwise you still have a vacuum leak. Most likely the rubber elbow the rubber Y (brake booster, decel valve, air distributor rubber splitter) and probably your pcv valve are leaking too. All of these things need to be looked at. Do you have a Hanes or Bentley manual?


What if it leaks at 9lb?
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

She left me stranded this morning, but before she did, I heard the fuel pump whine... Shocked
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Andrew A. Libby
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you tighten the oil plate beyond 9lbs, it will often crack the case...
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a1fa
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2011 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cash cow is back at the shop. Shocked
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