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thext94
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Joined: April 11, 2010
Posts: 1005
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
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 Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:23 am Post subject: |
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Started my welding class, it's Monday and Wednesday nights for 3 hours. Here's a couple first attempts at overlapping arc beads
We're learning arc, MIG, and TIG over the course of the class. Then afterward the plan is to take the certification test and get my license, make some money while going through the fire academy. I have my eye on a wider beam... 
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Tyler
'67 Baja: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=441376
'67 Class 11: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=521883 |
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bomberbaja
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Joined: January 18, 2010
Posts: 553
Location: Tri-Cities WA
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| Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 12:27 am Post subject: |
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| cool. what rod is that? 6013 I'm guessing? |
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thext94
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Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
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chucky73
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Joined: June 10, 2010
Posts: 41
Location: San Diego
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| Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2011 3:46 am Post subject: |
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| You will like the 7018, when you start burning it you will lay down some nice looking beeds. |
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UncleDirty
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Joined: July 20, 2005
Posts: 740
Location: So. Cal. Hi Dez
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| Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 8:15 am Post subject: |
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Where are you taking your classes, El Camino? I only ask because I see you're from Manhattan. I'm from the So. Bay, we had a fantastic metal shop at Hawthorne High and a great welding program at SCROC in Torrance, that's where I learned the basics. Keep up the good work.
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thext94
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Joined: April 11, 2010
Posts: 1005
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
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| Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:35 am Post subject: |
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Taking it at SCROC, unfortunately my instructor told me that El Camino shut down a lot of their shop classes, I think including the welding course? They had a great set-up there from what I've heard. I chose SCROC though because as a high school student I get the $900 class for free. I think it's something every high school student should take advantage of. I'll be going to El Camino for the fire academy though
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Tyler
'67 Baja: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=441376
'67 Class 11: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=521883 |
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petrol punk
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Joined: August 21, 2007
Posts: 621
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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| Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 7:36 pm Post subject: |
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| thext94 wrote: | | 6010. We're starting with that and then moving onto 70something. Forgot what he said...but its thick haha |
Interesting. We started with 7018 and moved on to 6010 in the classes I took. 7018 is nice, just have to hold a constant speed. And once you get real good the slag pretty much peels off without any effort. No more chunks of hot slag hitting your face when chipping.
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its gunna b bad
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Joined: November 22, 2010
Posts: 85
Location: WA state
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| Posted: Sat Oct 01, 2011 9:58 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not too much help on VW's but I can help you with the welding/fabbing. I personally am an arc welder and choose it over wirefeed. Anyways, those 6010 beads are looking good, you have your heat set good because they are laying really flat. The very top bead right before you stopped(1.5 inches to the end) looks to be an excellent weld and thats what you should aim for. Just about all of those beads would be a good strong weld, they may just not look like your desired stack of dimes look. So you are doing a great job, when you start doing overhead and vertical you will get frustrated. But, once you get the hang of it(speed,heat,arc length, movement,etc) you will become very good, very quick. MIG is easy, im sure you would pass a test even now. TIG...tig is overexaggerated on how hard it is. I will admit sometimes it can be a pain to weld with one in certain positions.
Pointers:
your 6010 flats- try not to take such big movements with your stick back and forth
7018 flats- little tiny movements, barely any at all, beads look great
7018 vertical- turn your heat down(harder than 6010 vertical)
6010 vertical- I use big movements and hold the rod for a second in the spot
Im not sure how you were taught by your instructor but this is some of what I can give you from behind a computer screen. Hope this helped you and im glad you are taking the initiative to go and take a class and get certified. |
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dustymojave
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Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 952
Location: Mojave Desert, California
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| Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 9:05 am Post subject: |
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Keep at it Tyler. Welding is a valuable skill to carry through life whether you make a living at it or not. It can pay well. But it will serve you well for building your own stuff and for your friends.
I've been teaching Warren (3gtech). He welded the rear bumper cage for his Baja and I went over it like an editor with an article for a magazine. I had him grind out welds which were not good enough and re-weld them. It looks pretty decent now.
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Richard
A.R.T.S. Tech Inspection MORE/MDR
Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails built in the Mojave Desert
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alexvw
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Joined: February 03, 2011
Posts: 851
Location: Hales Corners, Wisconsin
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| Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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What weber carb kit do you have exactly for your car? And am wondering if it was an easy install/adjustment
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1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
1974 Volkswagen Superbeetle
"No shit Jack !
That will tell you if they are the same
Such a bunch of wizards ! ! ! !
Jerry"
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=475355&highlight= |
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thext94
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Joined: April 11, 2010
Posts: 1005
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
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| Posted: Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:22 pm Post subject: |
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| its gunna b bad wrote: | I'm not too much help on VW's but I can help you with the welding/fabbing. I personally am an arc welder and choose it over wirefeed. Anyways, those 6010 beads are looking good, you have your heat set good because they are laying really flat. The very top bead right before you stopped(1.5 inches to the end) looks to be an excellent weld and thats what you should aim for. Just about all of those beads would be a good strong weld, they may just not look like your desired stack of dimes look. So you are doing a great job, when you start doing overhead and vertical you will get frustrated. But, once you get the hang of it(speed,heat,arc length, movement,etc) you will become very good, very quick. MIG is easy, im sure you would pass a test even now. TIG...tig is overexaggerated on how hard it is. I will admit sometimes it can be a pain to weld with one in certain positions.
Pointers:
your 6010 flats- try not to take such big movements with your stick back and forth
7018 flats- little tiny movements, barely any at all, beads look great
7018 vertical- turn your heat down(harder than 6010 vertical)
6010 vertical- I use big movements and hold the rod for a second in the spot
Im not sure how you were taught by your instructor but this is some of what I can give you from behind a computer screen. Hope this helped you and im glad you are taking the initiative to go and take a class and get certified. |
| Quote: | Keep at it Tyler. Welding is a valuable skill to carry through life whether you make a living at it or not. It can pay well. But it will serve you well for building your own stuff and for your friends.
I've been teaching Warren (3gtech). He welded the rear bumper cage for his Baja and I went over it like an editor with an article for a magazine. I had him grind out welds which were not good enough and re-weld them. It looks pretty decent now. |
Thanks for the tips guys, just got back from another class doing some more practice. Really enjoying it
| alexvw wrote: | What weber carb kit do you have exactly for your car? And am wondering if it was an easy install/adjustment
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I can't help with the install because it was on the engine when I bought the baja, but I've done a number of adjustments on the carb and it's not difficult at all. Especially if you use the tip manual I found online, I can link it to you if you end up using the same carb. Let's just say I had never touched a carb and I managed to tune it exactly how I wanted
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Tyler
'67 Baja: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=441376
'67 Class 11: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=521883 |
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alexvw
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Joined: February 03, 2011
Posts: 851
Location: Hales Corners, Wisconsin
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| Posted: Tue Oct 04, 2011 5:51 pm Post subject: |
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Do you know what kind of distributor you have, and is your carb a weber progressive? 
_________________
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT SL
1974 Volkswagen Superbeetle
"No shit Jack !
That will tell you if they are the same
Such a bunch of wizards ! ! ! !
Jerry"
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=475355&highlight= |
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thext94
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Nachodaddy77
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thext94
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Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
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thext94
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Joined: April 11, 2010
Posts: 1005
Location: Manhattan Beach, CA
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| Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2011 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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It isn't fun car news, but I've moved onto MIG because that's the one I really want to perfect before I start building up my car
Also cleaned it up yesterday. Engine polishing, got rid of any old mud, armor all...it's too clean. Taking it back to Parker next weekend, having my neighbor do a quick tune-up and then thanksgiving weekend I will be taking videos of the first ride of the season. Bring this thread back to life...
Taking some footage this weekend of my friend's truck so I can start playing around with Final Cut Pro. If it turns out decent I'll link it on here. Car news to come, I promise
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Tyler
'67 Baja: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=441376
'67 Class 11: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=521883 |
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Bashr52
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Joined: July 16, 2006
Posts: 2965
Location: On the Hill In J.C.
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| Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:06 am Post subject: |
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| drnewman wrote: | With the regular beetle lower control arms the ball joint is facing upwards so when you come down from a jump the spindle is pushed away from the balljoint and spindle. With the thing lower control arms the balljoint is facing downwards so when you land from a jump the ballloint is forced towards the spindle, stronger by design. As far as the spindles go, they actually have a lift built into them compared to the bug spindle. the spindles and lower arms are a bolt on addition to a bug balljoint beam.
It's not a cheap upgrade (roughly $500-$600 from my research), but i always thought it would be the best upgrade to make to a bug beam, hence the reason I'm saving up for the upgrade. You not only gain lift in the front (average around 3"), but you gain a stronger balljoint design.
I welcome any other opinions on this, but it seems your ride is so far along that it may benefit from such an upgrade. |
All you have to do to run Thing spindles on bug/ghia arms is press in the corect balljoints (you don't need to spring for the Thing arms). Thing spindles take a larger diameter balljoint, which is where I believe they get some of their strength from. The spindles are cast with about a 2.5" lift over bug/ghia parts though. I'm running ghia spindles and discs on my 73 street Thing. All I did was add ghia balljoints and caster nuts. The last set of Thing spindels I sold went for $250 IIRC. |
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poomwah
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thext94
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geoffwg
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