Mark's '64 Variant S build

[Bobnotch]

Those look like t-14 ghia spindles. And I've never seen a set of rotors that looked like those. Contact Joel (Boo Koo Z in the classifieds) or Mike Fisher and see if they have a pair of 66 to 71 spindles and rotors for sale. You really want the earlier style, as they are easier to get parts for. I got my set from Joel, that I modifed, for a wide 5 disc brake conversion.
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here; http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=240540 -tear down
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[IAMIROY]

Thank you for the clarification. I didn't think those looked like Type 3 but the seller was saying they were.

We're on the right track now.

Thanks again!

[turbomicrowaves]

Type 3 disc brake spindles look like this:




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'68 Sunroof Squareback

"There are no pieces"

OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's

[supaninja]

Those look different then mine too. I have a set of 66-68's on the notch, and a set of 69-71's for my brake upgrade mockup. Both styles are a two piece design(I think, I haven't pulled the ones off the car to inspect how they are built). Oh ya the mid-style ones have a bigger spindle diameter at the base.
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http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/chucky1974/ninja.gif

Nick
Megasquirted Type 4 powered Notch http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=427890&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Blog of Doom http://supaninjanick.wordpress.com/

[turbomicrowaves]

[supaninja]

This is where I go derr herp herp. The arm that bolts to the spindle for the tie rod is the second piece. Yours are correct, carry on. I'm going to cry in the corner now.
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http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y163/chucky1974/ninja.gif

Nick
Megasquirted Type 4 powered Notch http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=427890&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Blog of Doom http://supaninjanick.wordpress.com/

[turbomicrowaves]

[IAMIROY]

Looking for a reputable engine builder here in So. Cal.. Have any recommendations?

I hate reading through the feedback threads, they are nauseating

And speaking of feedback, thank you Brent for the parts and all the questions answered through PM.

[Brent]

[IAMIROY]

Working on the front end now. Do I need to worry about the bump stops when lowering ~2 inches? Mark seems to remember "back in the day" you just cut the bump stop arm off the beam because it would bottom out.

[IAMIROY]

Never mind , they're gone

[IAMIROY]

I'm trying to find a source for tie rod ends. I have searched the forums and the leads come up dead, even Autozone, for the R inner.

My questions are:

The SB is a '64, the closest I can come to is a '66 on the catalog searches for Rockauto and Autozone. Are they the same for these years?

Assuming they are, Rockauto shows Moog # ES418L as a R Inner and L Outer, but the picture shown a tie rod end without the 9* angle in it. AZ didn't show a R Inner at all.

[Brent]

[IAMIROY]

[IAMIROY]

Quick little update.

We drove the tranny to Transaxle Engineering in Chatsworth, Jeff Fields, super nice guy. He talked us out of the "freeway flyer" and gave a great price compared to all the other shops I called. Should have it back after Thanksgiving. That poor SB must have been shifting like crap in it's last days of running. The front mount was in two pieces, the rear mount were in pieces and the hockey stick was a poorly re-drilled type 1.

Fat Performance is drilling the rear hubs for Porsche 5 x 130. Brent, it turns out the difference in the two hubs was the thin one is stock VW and is forged, and the other was aftermarket and cast. Fat would only drill the forged ones, so I was able to locate another stock one around here. Thanks for sending those.

We are going to to use the Jer*Fab 2" lowered spring plates and then lower the rest of the way another notch if needed.

Mark's been sandblasting and repainting back plates and misc. things. Got the brake pads and wheel cylinders. Thanks to those who helped get us sorted out with those.

Brake lines are replaced in the rear from the tee, what a pain. It seems you can only get a brake line that is too long or too short, so you have to get creative with the tube bender. Would have been much easier with the body off for sure. We decided to pass on replacing the long one front to back, it looked too difficult without having the body off, so we blasted it out with brake cleaner really good.

Got the front beam all cleaned up. Seems like the thing was over-serviced it's entire life. There was so much grease built up. Once all cleaned up, the seals are still good and soft. Lowered (raised) the lower control arms 3 notches on the inner spline. Hacked off the bump stop brackets (sorry 1500 club )

That's about it for now. Ordering up more parts, rear drums, SS brake lines, front rotors drilled for 5 x 130, calipers, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc.

Still trying to decide on the engine.

Will post more pictures when we start putting it all back together.

[IAMIROY]

It's been a busy month so we haven't got much done on the squareback.

We did get the transaxle back from Transaxle Engineering. Standard R&P in a 12V case.


Here's a picture on Mark trying to get the end cap off of the spring plate, the ones on the spring plate tubes covering the splines. Not sure if there is a trick to this or not, but they were a bitch to get out of there. Once they were out, getting the spring plates off was pretty easy. Waiting for a call back from Jer*Fab to order up some lowered spring plates.


After messing around with the stock 4 lug hubs, trying to get 2 forged ones that were close to the same, Mark decided to order new chromemoly machined hubs from ISP that come drilled for Porsche 5x130 which take both screw in and press in studs, also ordered ISP front rotors already drilled for 5x130.

CIP1 had a sceamin' Xmas sale (everything 20% off) so we ordered up all the rest of the goodies, calipers, SS brake lines, Bowden tube, clutch cable, tie rod ends, ball joints, spring plate bushings. Should all be here right after Christmas so we will be busy putting things back together that week. It will finally feel like some progress is being made.

According to Anthony at ISP the left inner tie rod does not need to be angled, especially when lowered, as the angle is there to stop binding when the front end is un-compressed, as in raised up on a jack or lift. So we just ordered straight ones all around.

Also, in a thread on here about spun rear hubs, someone was saying there was a left and a right rear hub. I think they said something like "the driver's side is the drivers side and can be used on the passenger side in a pinch". Again, according to ISP they are the same.

A question on front wheel bearings. The outer wheel bearing seems to be the same part for a squareback from early model drums to late model disc brakes (62-74).

However, the inner bearings, one part number is for type 3 62-3/68, and another for type 3 4/68-74.

I'm not sure what year the spindles are that we got from Brent and when we ordered the front rotors from ISP they didn't ask for a year ( I should have ordered the bearings from them but forgot about it until later).

Can anyone clear this up for us? And yes, we still need to get the Bentley manual lol

Thanks

[Brent]

[IAMIROY]

[Brent]

I've been looking at bearings online and it seems like there's three versions:
311405625, 311405625A, and 311405625B.

I just took my old bearing to Napa and had them look up the part number on the bearing. It just doesn't seem right how they're advertised online; the part numbers and dates don't match up with when the brakes/spindles changed.

I'd call ISP on that one to make sure you get the right inner bearings for the rotors you ordered.
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69 Fastback Build (Doris)

[IAMIROY]