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Engine Cooling and Cabin Heating System Tutorial
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Worms
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 03, 2011 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hpw wrote:
zombiebug wrote:
Also does anyone have a thermostat I can get with the bracket? A quick search on the classifieds brought up nothing.


send this guy a pm, he is rebuilding thermostats and may have the bracket. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/search.php?username=volkaholic1


You can still buy brand new thermostats - Around US$80?? I got mine from "VW Classic Parts" (genuine VW parts) for about 50 UK pounds
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cferry7
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 5:27 pm    Post subject: Wonderful Reply with quote

Late Reader of this thread.
Great Job Paul Windisch !

I was curious about the Thermostat itself :
1) How dependable have people found these Thermostat's ?
2) Does The Bentley Service Manual or other detail the Temperature
vs Thermostat Opening Distance (Length) specification of
the Thermostat ?
3) Does their exist more than one type Thermostat for different Closing
/ Opening Temperatures ?

Thank You
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Paul Windisch
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2011 10:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a few different temp range t-stats, depending on bug, bus, or fuel injected. The thermostat should be marked on the top the temp range (in Celsius) at which it should be fully expanded. The thermostat should only be allowed to open as far as the bracket in which it is mounted will allow it. Any more than that and the bellows can be permanently damaged. They are very dependable and very easy to inspect. If the bellows are expanded when it is at ambient temperature, the thermostat is shot. If you want to test it, take it and the bracket off the engine. Leave it bolted in the bracket and put it in a pot of water. Start heating the water and monitor the temp of the water with a meat thermometer. When the water gets near the temp marked on the thermostat it should start to expand. It should be fully expanded at or just above the temp marked on the top. Once expanded it will begin to close at a temp lower than what it is marked. I believe there is a description of it in the Bently.
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klokwerk
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2011 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul, thanks for writing this! I just bought a 67 beetle and I'm sorting out a few things.
The first thing is making sure the heating system works! It's fall and starting to get cold in Spokane.
Before I know it, we'll be up to our hips in snow....so, I want to make sure it works. Your write up and others will prove very helpful. Thanks again!

Jerry
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rchas
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am restoring the heating system in a 71 superbeetle. I have replaced the heater box cable with no problem, and now have heat in the cabin.

However, the cable that controls the front defrost/rear cabin heat is also broken and I don't know where it goes. Every manual I read only mentions the heater box. Where does the tube for this cable end up? Is the control for this in the y-box under the rear seat?

I would greatly appreciate any help!
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vw57drvr
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It runs along the floor pan, just in front of the outlet under the rear seat. They are usually rusted and gone. The cable just operates the round flap at the outlet pipe.
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Paul Windisch
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The lever on the right side of the park brake is to turn the heat on and off (it's connected to the heat exchangers). The lever on the left controls the rear heater outlets. There is a set of tubes inside the tunnel that contain cables to actuate the flaps in the "Ys". The tubes poke out of the tunnel under the rear seat JUST behind where the kick panels mount. The tube then runs from the tunnel across the floor over to the "Ys". The cables are attached to the flap cable with a small coupler.

I still need to get the pictures up, sorry! Been very busy lately.
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PatterBon
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Paul, I have 99% of the Defrost hooked up in my 73 Standard, still want pictures?
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"Crusty"??
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Paul Windisch
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2011 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes! Toss them up! Four little kids + holidays = no time!
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Beetlebaum
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2011 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Justin, did you have to buy new cables for the heater cables (for the outlets in the cabin)? If so, where'd you get them? One of mine is broken, and the other doesn't seem to want to hook back up properly to the tubes under the seat...
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PatterBon
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Will do Paul! And Jason, I didn't have to buy new ones, mine were already intact.
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rchas
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 25, 2011 7:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I appreciate the replies, they were very helpful!

I have the driver side lever, but no cable. It appears that the tube the cable runs in is missing. The Y boxes are there, but don't a flap to close the rear vent off.

I can probably fabricate something that will work, but it would help if I had something to work from. Does anyone have a picture of the flap assembly in the Y, and what the cable tube and connection at the Y?

Thanks again!
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2011 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

From a '74 convertible (same as sedan). That's some sort of heat-resistant red rubber around the edges of the flap to seal it when closed.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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rchas
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the pictures!
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zombiebug
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the cables that attache to the back floor valves butterfly things (the things pictures were just posted of) also attach to the dash vents? I.e. can you close the dash vents or do they stay open all the time?
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mnussbau
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 6:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depends on the year to some degree. In '73 and up cars, the same (left) lever that closes the rear flaps also closes the side floor vents, directing all warm air to the windshield. There are two cables attached to that left lever. On '72 and earlier, you have to manually close the floor vents to get max defrost. Separate round knobs on the dash open or close the fresh air vents, unrelated to the heater.
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Greezy Joe
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great thread Dude, Thanks. Got a quick question tho. 2276 build, I can not get the t-stat rod between the cylinders. I quess Icould grind some cooling fins off the cylinders. What have others done for this. I do want to run the t-stat, quess I have an issue with removing cooloing fins Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greezy Joe wrote:
2276 build, I can not get the t-stat rod between the cylinders.


put the rod through the opening in the head where it goes, then the cylinders won't be bothering you.... Wink
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LRS30
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 28, 2011 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just bought mine lastnight and froze my ass off, its been modified frtom the previous owner, aftermarket chrome tins (EMPI), hinge stand-off's, missing the pan/cover on the bottom of the engine compartment (does anybody know where to find one of those for 72 Super Beetle), And an aftermarket Monza Exhaust (I think thats what the P.O. called it..No Thermostat, no j tubes. I do have the flexible boots that connect the J tubes, but need to get me some J tubes. I am trying to figure out where to start.. I guess I am needing to find out if I can connect stock J tubes to the aftermarket exhaust, DOes anybody know? Or have any recomendations as to what I should do for starters on getting the J tubes attached to the exhaust..
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Paul Windisch
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have heat exchangers or J-tubes?
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