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Serious Top end speed needed!
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jbbugs
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:58 am    Post subject: Serious Top end speed needed! Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Check out the track layout for the 14-Hour ChumpCar roadrace coming up on May 27th!

We're currently running a Stock-geared 3.88 IRS trans in my 73' Super Beatle, and are topping out around 105mph. I'll be stepping up to a .82 4th gear, but it will obviously not be enough on a track this Big.
Should be a blast anyway!
www.chumpcar.com
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Run a 3.44 r/p with a .82 fourth, you just better have enough grunt to pull it!
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Eaallred
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What rpm are you hitting at 105mph? Are you limited by engine rpm limits, or is that where it runs out of power? If the engine is just out of power at that point, gearing taller will probably just slow you down.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^^^^ Agreed
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Reason im saying, is I hit just over 130mph in a stock geared trans with a 4:12 ring and pinion. Was doing about 6200rpm on a 26" tire.

I don't see 6200rpm as being too high of an rpm to hit at the track, just wondering if the car is only pulling up to 105. If so, you just need more power, I think you have the gearing to do it (3.88 ring and pinion in there already,right?). That track is not all high speed, there's some 'slow' turns in there as well.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A "stock" 3.88 trans has the same final drive as a 4.12, r/p times fourth gear, due to the .94 fourth verses the .89, you still should be able to hit higher top speeds tho
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:29 am    Post subject: Re: Serious Top end speed needed! Reply with quote

jbbugs wrote:
...We're currently running a Stock-geared 3.88 IRS trans in my 73' Super Beatle, and are topping out around 105mph. ...


What is your tire diameter? What's your HP? 100? 150?
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jbbugs
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm currently running a 14" Falken Azenis 615K tire with a diameter of 22.75". It's the only size 14" tire they offer. We LOVE the tires, as they stick like glue, and have held up fine during 24, and 14-hour races.
I'm sure a taller tire would help a bunch, but for now I'm stuck with the 14" wheels.(I have a number of them for spares). I've dynoed the motor at 110hp at the wheels running 91 octane w/8.0CR. To keep the fuel costs down, we're having to stay with pump gas, as we burned 130+ gallons during the 24-hour race.....Fuel ain't cheap! Shocked
It also has to LAST for 14-24 hours w/o damaging itself....Keep in mind, this IS Endurance racing
We tend to top out around 5,700 rpm's in 4th gear. We're getting killed on the long straights, but can hold our own against most of the field in the shorter, third gear turns. I expect some of the faster cars to see 140-150mph at Daytona. I'm sure we can't get up to those speeds. We'll have to stay low on the inside and point them by for sure.
I'm considering a 3.44 R&P, but I'm worried it might hurt us in the shorter turns. Anybody got a cheap 3.44?
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wompninja
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think you just need more HP!
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 12:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Despite gearing you'll need power to overcome the aero wall...
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jbbugs
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jake Raby wrote:
Despite gearing you'll need power to overcome the aero wall...

I was thinking that. We were running a smaller motor at Roebling road, and we had installed some silly looking wing on the back of the roof.........It killed almost 300 rpm's on the top end.
The wing was removed after a few laps. Embarassed
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57'tubeframe dragbug
73' Super Beetle CrapCan roadracer
and an 04'F150 to tow them with
Contrary to popular Samba Folklore, the 010 is Not the sliced bread of VW distributors
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markhuebbe
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

jbbugs wrote:
...I've dynoed the motor at 110hp at the wheels running 91 octane w/8.0CR. ...I expect some of the faster cars to see 140-150mph at Daytona. I'm sure we can't get up to those speeds. We'll have to stay low on the inside and point them by for sure....


Then with 110 HP you're going to stay down on the inside. Gearing won't help.

Theoretical top speed given:
110 HP
70 deg. OAT
29.96 in. HG
Coeff. Drag 0.48
Frontal Area 19.37 ft^2
Top Speed = 121 MPH

That's assuming you're putting out peak HP at your max speed. (Think salt flats where the gearing is optimized for top speed & max HP)

That speed doesn't include friction losses between the tires & the road or any power used to build momentum in any moving parts.

So I really doubt you're going to reach more than maybe 110 mph in that long 0.8 mile section before the chicane at the back stretch.
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modok
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's not real scientific, but my general belief is it takes at least 120 crank HP to go 120 mph.
The bus forth should work, maybe the 3.44 with a .89?....... any higher and it might be overkill


Is it against the rules for your fenders to "fall off"?
Wink
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Bill271
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Freakin put a bigger arm in it and piss everybody off!
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Lo Cash John
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to do less work or make more power or both.

Can you clean up the aerodynamics? Shave the drip rails and door hinges? Flush mount lexan windows? Loose the bumpers if you have any? Maybe a mild chop top if you have time?

If you try and make more power, how would you cool it? Maybe a ram air tube from the front end straight into the fan intake? Water cooled heads? Run it on alky maybe? Costs more, but to exploit that advantage you could just up the compression a lot and not spend another penny on parts. That helps offset the higher fuel cost. Just throwing some dumb ideas at ya'.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would bump the cr up to atleast 9. with .040" piston to head clearance. I my self would have at least 9.5,I run 10.5 on the street everyday, no problems.how are your heads? is there room for improvement there?what size motor?carbs?exhaust? and higher cr uses less fuel.
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jbbugs
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 6:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
I would bump the cr up to atleast 9. with .040" piston to head clearance. I my self would have at least 9.5,I run 10.5 on the street everyday, no problems.how are your heads? is there room for improvement there?what size motor?carbs?exhaust? and higher cr uses less fuel.

The current motor is a 2332, 8.0 CR ,CB 2288 cam, straight cut gears, CB CNC Ultramag 42X37 heads, 1-5/8' exhaust, Single 44-IDF carb. YES, I said SINGLE carb. I know, I know..... We went with it because it has been completely trouble free. I'm trying to avoid linkage issues that dual carbs bring with them.
I might try a pair of 48 IDF's, but I'm not sure if they would hurt our fuel miliege or not. We cannot increase our fuel cell size. Right now,We can do around 1hour, 45 minutes before a fuel stop. Possibly a bit more. ChumpCar has mandetory 2-hour driver changes to keep people fresh, and NOT run Giant fueltanks for safety reasons.
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Drag bus! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2MOVmKdhX4

58' double-door panel
57'tubeframe dragbug
73' Super Beetle CrapCan roadracer
and an 04'F150 to tow them with
Contrary to popular Samba Folklore, the 010 is Not the sliced bread of VW distributors
www.jbbugs.com


Last edited by jbbugs on Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:49 am; edited 1 time in total
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ralf
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i think ud gain top end by turning the exhaust down to 37 vs 73mm


hahaha kidding!!!


that track looks like its killer....


wish u guys all the top end luck and hit us back with updates on the game plan and result
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jbbugs wrote:

I might try a pair of 48 IDF's, but I'm not sure if they would hurt our fuel miliege or not. We cannot increase our fuel cell size. Right now,We can do around 1hour, 45 minutes before a fuel stop. Possibly a bit more. ChumpCar has mandetory 2-hour driver changes to keep people fresh, and NOT run Giant fueltanks for safety reasons.


I'm running dual Kadrons with a dual heim joint linkage which is supposed to be problematic once the engine is warmed (because it expands slightly). It's been problem free entirely.
Also, with the ability to tune the intake for each individual cylinder, you SHOULD get the best mileage of any carb. And that's just logical.

I would wait for someone who knows more about cam duration vs compression, but my 1776cc daily driver is currently running the CB 2235 cam and 9.24:1 CR on 91 octane. I think you can get away with more than 8.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried a 388/.82 combo in my buggy. The RPM drop from 3 to 4 it STEEP alround 1500 rpm. You'll need more than 110 hp to pull that gear combo. I would look at a 3.44 R/P, I borrowed a tranny with that gear from Team Blackline last year at Bonneville and absolutely loved it. Every gear was noticably longer and with your short tires I think would help a lot. My autocross slicks are 22 inches tall and I'm running a stock box, that combo sucks.

brad
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