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crushie
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Joined: September 23, 2011
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Location: alberta
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 Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:41 pm Post subject: Distributor questions, - drive dog position help |
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I have a few distributor questions, 74 1800cc. Weber 32-36 carb.
1-There are two hookups for the vacuum advance, only one is hooked up to the weber carb and the other is blocked off. How do I determine if it is the correct one......
2-Where are the markings to determine what make the distributor is, factory or aftermarket.....
3-What are the correct timing specs for the engine with a single weber carb...
4-What is the procedure for distributor maintenance, not sure whether you lube the lobe or what should be done....
5-I purchased a timing light but must you have a tach to set the timing....
6-The distributor has a empi accu-fire instead of the points and condenser,are these units any good.
7-I have a factory coil, is this good enough.....
Thanks.
Last edited by crushie on Mon Dec 26, 2011 11:09 am; edited 7 times in total |
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SGKent
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Joined: October 30, 2007
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Location: State Capitol CA (Sacramento)
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 2:13 pm Post subject: Re: Distributor questions 7-total to be exact. |
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| crushie wrote: | I have a few distributor questions, 74 1800cc. Weber 32-36 carb.
1-There are two hookups for the vacuum advance, only one is hooked up to the weber carb and the other is blocked off. How do I determine if it is the correct one......
2-Where are the markings to determine what make the distributor is, factory or aftermarket.....
3-What are the correct timing specs for the engine with a single weber carb...
4-What is the procedure for distributor maintenance, not sure whether you lube the lobe or what should be done....
5-I purchased a timing light but must you have a tach to set the timing....
6-The distributor has a empi accu-fire instead of the points and condenser,are these units any good.
7-I have a factory coil, is this good enough.....
Thanks. |
1) you have to understand the mechanism to answer than. The dual vacuum units have two directions they pull - forwards and backwards (advance and retard). The carb has tube on it that go to ports inside the venturi boides or under them. When the throttle plate is closed any ports above it get no vacuum. When it is open the ports above it get vacuum. The ports below the plate always get vacuum and it gets less with engine load. So, Since your carb isn't calibrated to use the retard side of the vacuum advance, you would block off the retard side. The advance side would be hooked up to a port that gets vacuum only when the throttle plate is open.
2) stamped in the side of it
3) all bus engines should be timed the same. 28 to 30 degrees BTDC with all the hoses off and with the engine running about 3500 RPM because at that point the mechanical advance is already all the way in.
4) You lube the lobes with distributor grease ONLY if you have points and a rubbing block. You don't. With the cap off and the rotor off, there is a felt wick in the center of the shaft. You put three or four drops of oil a year there. If it hasn't been done in a long time put 8 drops. Use anything from Engine oil to sewing machine oil. Synthetic oil is ok too. As you turn the engine by hand and look down into the distributor with the cap off you will see some cutouts in the plate. If you shine a flashlight into them you will see that every so often a pivot, weight and spring go by. (there are two). Put a drop or two of oil on the top of each pivot. You may need to use a oiler tube to get in there. You don't want more than just a little on it to keep it working smoothly. You don't want it gummy or dry. Also the breaker plate is two pieces held together with a ball bearing and spring clip. Put a few drops of oil in the area of the ball bearing and try to get a little oil between the plates. I take the plates out, clean them and lube with moly grease once every few years but if you haven't done it before don't until you have a spare distributor to practice on. There is a copper ground strap that will be old and fragile. Don't break it.
5) you don't need a tach to use the light. You do need a tach to set idle speed and other things so start looking for one.
6) I have no idea but my understanding is that generally EMPI hasn't been well thought of on anything since Joe Vittone and Econo Motors failed in the mid 1970's.
7) yes
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formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.
bdamico on GF wrote | Quote: | | "When I was your age I'd plan out all sorts of stuff for the future and almost none of them came true. Just wonder if it's worth trying to be a crystal ball. " |
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Tom Powell
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 3:09 pm Post subject: Re: Distributor questions 7-total to be exact. |
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| SGKent wrote: | | ... 6) I have no idea but my understanding is that generally EMPI hasn't been well thought of on anything since Joe Vittone and Econo Motors failed in the mid 1970's. ... |
If you have electronic ignition of any sort you should carry spare points and condenser. Or, better yet, a complete and working spare distributor with points, condenser, and a timing mark punched on the case. Much easier to swap out a distributor on the side of a cold snowy road than install points, condenser, and set the dwell and timing.
Aloha
tp |
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crushie
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Location: alberta
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the reply,
So I decided to pull the distributor. It is a factory VW unit with a empi accu-fire. I would like to clean and lube the distributor but I cannot seem to dis-assemble the distributor any more than what is seen in the pictures. What is my next step......
Also is a pic of the vacuum advance unit, I previously put the red cap on but is this the right one to block off, not sure which is the advance and which is the retard, I need the advance side as per your post Melvin..... Thanks for the other answers.
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busdaddy
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:15 pm Post subject: |
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The nipple with the red cap is the advance port, that's the one to connect to the carb, the other port should be left open if you aren't using it as capping it will effect the advance.
Your next step in dismantleage if all the screws are out of the sides is slide the breaker plate up out of the body, it's in there tight and has to go up evenly (no tilt). Don't forget how it goes back in.
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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The red capped one is the advance and it is the one you want to be using. Leave the nipple on the retard can open to the atmosphere.
To remove the plates from the distributor you need to take a small screwdriver and pry up gently and evenly on the lower plate. There are different systems holding the plates in place on various distributors. Some take more force to remove than others. |
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Tom Powell
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:19 pm Post subject: |
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Once again, BD by one minute.
Aloha
tp |
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borninabus
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:22 pm Post subject: |
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check that the advance side of the can is working (holding vacuum) before you get to excited about cleaning & lubing.
if the retard side does not work (which is common) but the advance side does it is still good.
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rustbus
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:25 pm Post subject: |
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| Tom Powell wrote: | Once again, BD by one minute.
Aloha
tp |
well at least their answers tied for first place! 
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crushie
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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| borninabus wrote: | check that the advance side of the can is working (holding vacuum) before you get to excited about cleaning & lubing.
if the retard side does not work (which is common) but the advance side does it is still good. |
Thanks guys, The PO had the vacuum hose hooked up to the retard side as seen in the picture. Then I SAW A FITTING WITH NOTHING ON IT SO i CAPPED IT OFF. Dummy  I will change this. Can you tell me how this affects the engine performance......could this cause my carb backfire.....
With the weber there is only one port so I will now use this for the advance instead of the retard and leave the retard open to the air.
I need to know how to check the vacuum advance unit.
I observed that with the vacuum hose off the distributor, but still connected to the carb that at idle there was no vacuum and when rpms increased vacuum increased then at high rpms I think it dropped off a bit, is this the proper operation of the vac unit..... Thanks for the help
Can you not just push the whole guts of the distributor out by driving the shaft straight up through the body..... |
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busdaddy
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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| crushie wrote: | | Can you not just push the whole guts of the distributor out by driving the shaft straight up through the body..... |
Sure, but if you want to use any of it again that's not the way to do it
Test the vacuum can by sucking hard on it and sealing the end of the nipple with your tounge, if it'll hold vacuum for 20-30 seconds it's good.
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crushie
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:39 pm Post subject: |
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Is there any place where you can purchase VW distributor parts........
There are two small red plastic pieces, maybe bushings or something under the weights and one of them is broke....... |
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1975 Kombi
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:59 pm Post subject: |
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| crushie wrote: | Is there any place where you can purchase VW distributor parts........
There are two small red plastic pieces, maybe bushings or something under the weights and one of them is broke....... |
You might be better off grabbing a spare distributor for parts.
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"I do not see things as black and white, but everything as very colourful!"
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crushie
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Westfabulous
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| Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:48 pm Post subject: |
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That rebuild kit won't help you. 95% of it's contents are no good for your needs.
Glenn will know for sure, but if your red plastic pieces are broken, I think your distributor is toast. I don't think there are replacement parts once those break.
I wrote this, maybe it'll help, or maybe not:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=486379
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borninabus
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 4:29 am Post subject: |
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| Westfabulous wrote: | | That rebuild kit won't help you... |
yes, it will.
that kit will have the small red washers.
true that most of the kit you will not need but it will have some key pieces that you do need.
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Westfabulous
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 8:35 am Post subject: |
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| borninabus wrote: | | Westfabulous wrote: | | That rebuild kit won't help you... |
yes, it will.
that kit will have the small red washers.
true that most of the kit you will not need but it will have some key pieces that you do need. |
I bought 4 of those kits, and there was little in there that was useful. Glenn warned me about that; he was right. Better than nothing, but mostly useless. I ended up buying the rest of what I needed from another source. I guess it depends on what you need, and whether you get lucky when you buy the kit.
I haven't looked in the kit for a while, but I don't remember red washers off the top of my head.
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crushie
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 8:51 am Post subject: |
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| Westfabulous wrote: | | borninabus wrote: | | Westfabulous wrote: | | That rebuild kit won't help you... |
yes, it will.
that kit will have the small red washers.
true that most of the kit you will not need but it will have some key pieces that you do need. |
I bought 4 of those kits, and there was little in there that was useful. Glenn warned me about that; he was right. Better than nothing, but mostly useless. I ended up buying the rest of what I needed from another source. I guess it depends on what you need, and whether you get lucky when you buy the kit.
I haven't looked in the kit for a while, but I don't remember red washers off the top of my head. |
Can you tell me where you purchased parts for the distributor. I am after the two red bushings as one is broken in my dist.
Also, I didn`t know that you need to know how the drive gear was oriented in order that you not install the dist 180 degrees out. Any ideas on how I determine which way is correct........ |
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Westfabulous
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 8:58 am Post subject: |
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| crushie wrote: | | Westfabulous wrote: | | borninabus wrote: | | Westfabulous wrote: | | That rebuild kit won't help you... |
yes, it will.
that kit will have the small red washers.
true that most of the kit you will not need but it will have some key pieces that you do need. |
I bought 4 of those kits, and there was little in there that was useful. Glenn warned me about that; he was right. Better than nothing, but mostly useless. I ended up buying the rest of what I needed from another source. I guess it depends on what you need, and whether you get lucky when you buy the kit.
I haven't looked in the kit for a while, but I don't remember red washers off the top of my head. |
Can you tell me where you purchased parts for the distributor. I am after the two red bushings as one is broken in my dist. |
What I will do is look in one of my kits today and see if the red pieces are in there, and I will let you know. While you are refurbing your dizzy, you should be replacing the steel and fiber washers, and you won't find what you need in the kit. Let me look and get back to you. Did you see my link?
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crushie
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| Posted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 9:10 am Post subject: |
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[quote="Westfabulous"] | crushie wrote: | | Westfabulous wrote: | | borninabus wrote: | | Westfabulous wrote: | | That rebuild kit won't help you... |
yes, it will.
that kit will have the small red washers.
true that most of the kit you will not need but it will have some key pieces that you do need. |
I bought 4 of those kits, and there was little in there that was useful. Glenn warned me about that; he was right. Better than nothing, but mostly useless. I ended up buying the rest of what I needed from another source. I guess it depends on what you need, and whether you get lucky when you buy the kit.
I haven't looked in the kit for a while, but I don't remember red washers off the top of my head. |
Can you tell me where you purchased parts for the distributor. I am after the two red bushings as one is broken in my dist. |
What I will do is look in one of my kits today and see if the red pieces are in there, and I will let you know. While you are refurbing your dizzy, you should be replacing the steel and fiber washers, and you won't find what you need in the kit. Let me look and get back to you. Did you see my link?[/quote
Thanks so much, and I did see your link and you pissed me off by not reading my mind and sending me the link before I started.
But seriously, your help is appreciated and once I start to put it back together I may need to pick your brain.
Also any info on my drive gear question..... |
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