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Melanie: The 1970 Squareback Build
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NuschoolAircool
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:02 pm    Post subject: Melanie: The 1970 Squareback Build Reply with quote

Dedicated build threads are always good, so this will be Mel's. Well here are some photo's I snapped today showing *some* of her finer points.

Here she is from the side. She has a pretty gnarly dent on the passenger size door about the size of a waffle. Also looks like some one scraped that side along a pole, probably in a carport at some time.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This is some of the only, and worst, rust I could find on the car. By the rear passenger side window. Some one just painted over it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This badge is on the rear of the car. I don't think it is VW specific, but you can correct me wrong. Probably a previous owner mod, much like the beloved quad exhaust.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So around the read window, the seal does not connect. Which sucks because water gets in, and exhaust smell, and probably other things too! You can also see the crappy respray that some one did on her. Is there a way to tell what the factory color was? Although I am thinking a sparkly gold-orange color could be tacky enough for my liking. Laughing

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here is trim on the driver side that is working it's way out. Also the flaking paint is looking good there!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

This is my stereo system currently, doesn't actually sound half bad lol

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And lastly, my favorite part of the car.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

There are a few important things to get to. I know the rear is not level. The passenger side looks about an inch lower than the drivers side. While this doesn't really seem to affect driving too much, I am sure it actually does, and it looks funny to me. I washed her, but didn't wax because I may want to start dissasembling her and sanding everything down for new paint. I don't mind the brown, but I want to attend to that rust, and the current paint is flaking off. Not a good look to me. Also, all the seals need to be replaced. Not only does water get in the back window, it also seems to be getting into the passenger door and soaking the door card on that side. Exhaust smell is also terrible in the car, it doesn't make me sick, but I did have a passenger complain earlier, and my mother later. I need to figure out whats going on with the dash as well. Although some one told me what to do on the previous thread, I would like to get a better understanding. To restate the problem: the fuel/turn/assorted lights gauge only gets power when a turn indicator is on. Not only that, when I turn the signal on the gas needle bounces up and down with the clicks of the indicator. However, the indicator lights within the gauge do not light up. ever. Do I need to play with the connections behind the gauges themselves? My dash is cracked and broken, do I have to remove it to get behind the gauges?

I want to let everyone first and foremost, that I can't buy anything really (this includes a Bentley) for at least a month. I spent every cent I had basically to get this car, insurance, and registration. I am 22, and I am starting a new job Monday. Like most of us, I have been struggling through this economic climate. With that said, I appreciate the help I know I will need. Look forward to filling up this thread with hard work, and a *more* beautiful car at the end.

A question about wheels... How come everyone doesn't run BBS RS? Laughing What are our options when is comes to giving these cars a wider stance?


Last edited by NuschoolAircool on Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:05 pm; edited 1 time in total
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69SquareGuy
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might wanna delete that other thread.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jobs are good. How about some pictures of the engine. There might be some issues there that can be fixed easily and save you a ton of headaches, or worse.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it appears that the OE color might have been a light baby blue.

to seal the rear window where the rubber doesn't go all around. you can use some black RTV trim silicone but I'd doubt this is the last/only place you're drawing in fumes.. give your heater boxes and connections a very thorough looking over.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Melanie: The 1970 Squareback Build Reply with quote

NuschoolAircool wrote:
Is there a way to tell what the factory color was? Although I am thinking a sparkly gold-orange color could be tacky enough for my liking. Laughing

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I'm guessing Diamond Blue from that little patch there. There should be a sticker just forward of the fuel tank on the piece that separates the fuel tank area from the spare tire. Unless it was painted over... You could also look on the backside of the dash and under carpet pieces.

Regarding your exhaust smell, I bet you have something else going on besides the hole in your seal. If all the engine tin is not there, boot between fan and fresh air ducts, and hoses connected properly you can suck hot air into your fan. That's bad because not only does that air provide your heat, but it also is warm and won't cool the engine as much.

Cool car though, looks clean.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm guessing the rear gate has been replaced before it got painted. I do think you're right about it being green originally though, as you could see that color around the engine hatch in your first pics posted in your other thread.
The dent in the door will probably pop out from the inside, but you'll have to take the door card off to get to it. However, this will allow you to clean the drains in the bottom of the door, and allow you to install a vapor barrier (a sheet of plastic that's glued to the inside of the door, before the door card gets re-installed). Look thru my 71 build thread (been busy) that's in my signature, and you'll see how I did it. For the rust in the corner of the window, you'll need to remove the window assembly, and sandblast the rust, in order to fix it. There are some smaller sandblasters out there that would work excellent for this, or you could visit Brent, as we ALL know he has access to 1. Wink

As for the electrical issues you've got, sure adding some grounds to the gauges might fix the problem. No, you don't have to pull the dash pad to get to them, but you might have to spend some time on your head looking up underneath it. Wink You can also go to the technical section (link at the top of the page, although it defaults to t-2s, and click on the t-3 link), and download the wiring diagram for your year of car. The best thing to do, is download it to a disc, and take it to Kinkos (or someone else) and have them print it out a little larger, so it's easier to read. Cool This will help you as you check to see what the PO did with the wiring.

As someone already noted, the lowering videos by cugir will help you level the car (or even raise it back up, you just have to work backwards of the lowering instructions). You should get an angle finder to help you dial it in though, as it sounds like you'll need a combination of inner and outer spline movements. This can be tricky, and will probably take a few attempts to get right.

I warned you about that crappy exhaust (and it's tips), and really, there's only 1 real way to fix it...replace it with something else. But IF you get some gate seals, and a hatch seal, you can slow down some of the fumes.

Most of the work needed to be done immediately, shouldn't cost very much, as it's mostly a time deal (you need to put the time into fixing it), but most of other stuff can be had for around 300 or so (seals, sand, epoxy primer (for the rust), Bentley book, etc...), the rest is time. Real body work costs money (time and materials), so it's expensive.

Personally, I'd fix what needs fixing right now, and drive it while saving the cash to do the other stuff you want to do.

As for trying to widen the track, you'd need to raise the car up, in order to put wider rims and tires on it. If you look thru some of the threads (or even do a search), it's extemely hard to get some wider rims on the car, and get them to fit under the fenders (what most people here want to do, while getting their cars as low to the ground as possible). A lot of this is due to offset, along with clearances being tight. However, if the car is raised back up to near stock ride height, you eliminate those hinderances. Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Bob,


I didn't even see your response to this. I am definitely thinking of a new green color to put on the car. Good to know about the dent, that is the only really noticable thing on the car.

In regards to the electrical issues, I think I am just going to but a Bentley, and a ton of new wiring and connectors, and start wiring the thing properly. I looked under the dash and it is a mess of broken wires and unraveling electrical tape. It is really disgusting, looks as if it is something dreamed up by a bird.

In terms of widening the track, I am attempting to get the wheels flush with the fender. I am not a huge fan of the tucked look, and don't even mind a little poke (insert that's what she said joke here). I want to use these wheels, you see them on all kinds of cars, and I think they would look very classy on Peru Green.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If I have to, I will buy the faces and have barrels custom built for T3 fitment.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NuschoolAircool wrote:
Hey Bob,


I didn't even see your response to this. I am definitely thinking of a new green color to put on the car. Good to know about the dent, that is the only really noticable thing on the car.

In regards to the electrical issues, I think I am just going to but a Bentley, and a ton of new wiring and connectors, and start wiring the thing properly. I looked under the dash and it is a mess of broken wires and unraveling electrical tape. It is really disgusting, looks as if it is something dreamed up by a bird.

In terms of widening the track, I am attempting to get the wheels flush with the fender. I am not a huge fan of the tucked look, and don't even mind a little poke (insert that's what she said joke here). I want to use these wheels, you see them on all kinds of cars, and I think they would look very classy on Peru Green.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

If I have to, I will buy the faces and have barrels custom built for T3 fitment.


Yeah, PO wiring hacks are the worst, and are 1 of the MOST common mods. Rolling Eyes

As for those wheels, try to find something with a 46mm off set, and try not to get too wide, and you should be fine. Keep in mind not too many wheels are offered in the 4x130 bolt pattern, so you'll have to do some serious searching for that style of rim in the size and bolt pattern you want (with the right off set). One option however, is to have the rotors, drums, and hubs redrilled for a 4 on a 100 bolt pattern, as this will open up a lot of different rims with the correct back space (like front wheel drive cars use). John J. did this with his 66 Squareback, and was able to find the style of rim (with the correct off set) that he wanted to use. Just something to keep in mind.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My flat faced 6" wide 2 liters fit good with 205X70's & 1/2" clearance to the fender! You could go 7" wide maybe, but all you would be gaining is Problems.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 11:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a pic of my 65 Notch. The rims are 70's vintage Westerns (at least that's what I've been told they are). I'm running 205-65-15's on the rear, and 195-60-15s up front, with a 2 inner spline drop.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

And this 1 (shot by Mrs 66311) might give you an idea of how tucked (or not tucked) the tires are. Wink
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That looks great, bobnotch! I like those wheels a lot!
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 4:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Bob,

Love the color of your Notch! The wheels as well are obviously a look I am going after with the RSs! I am a huge fan of mesh wheels, and would like to do something classy, and multi-piece. How much did your wheels run you?

I am going to redrill the rotors for sure. I am thinking I could just rebuilt a crappy set if I can find them cheap enough... Although, with all the work I have to do, wheels are the last thing on my mind currently.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been actively looking for rims like Bob's for 4 years with no luck. Best of luck to anyone else who can find some.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are many mesh wheels that look similar to Bob's... I don't know about fitment for our cars... but yeah.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NuschoolAircool wrote:
There are many mesh wheels that look similar to Bob's... I don't know about fitment for our cars... but yeah.


Keeping an eye out for you! Wink They are pricey but they are custom and no one will have them...

http://www.ccwheel.com/wheelprofiles-display.php?id=LM20
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NuschoolAircool wrote:
Hey Bob,

Love the color of your Notch! The wheels as well are obviously a look I am going after with the RSs! I am a huge fan of mesh wheels, and would like to do something classy, and multi-piece. How much did your wheels run you?


Thanks, it's a custom mixed color I chose for it (originally mixed it myself, then had my paint supplier re-mix it in a larger amount).

As for the wheels, they came off a 76 bug I picked up in the early 90's for next to nothing. I even tried to give them away a few times over the years, but nobody wanted them, so I cleaned the hell out of them, and put them on my Notch. I actually like them on it now, as it gives it that BMW look. Wink Twisted Evil They're solid aluminum, polished, not chrome. In fact it takes about a 1/2 hour to clean each rim. Shocked Back in 2000, I ran into a guy who had a set of rims just like them, but I haven't seen him (or the rims) since. His looked like mine did, before I cleaned mine up.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well guys for a few hours now I have been cleaning out the car, and wire chasing. Now I don't know how I didn't see this before, but the PO cut out half the fucking floor pan, I looked on the WRONG side when I bought the car I guess! Pardon my french. I will take pictures but the passenger rear quarter of the pan is gone. The other thing, is the car is leaking oil now, and one of my fuses on the panel is blown. The little copper piece is all gone in the middle. I will take pictures of all this shortly, I am taking a lunch break. I have found a few new rust locations as well. I took out the driver seat, the rails for the seat are beat to shit. The PO has made a lot of crappy mods, but I wasn't expecting the floor pan. I would say I am in over my head, but my brain doesn't work that way. Hooray for more challenges to overcome! Cool

markpetersonii wrote:


Keeping an eye out for you! Wink They are pricey but they are custom and no one will have them...

http://www.ccwheel.com/wheelprofiles-display.php?id=LM20


Those are amazing!! They kind of look like LMs, but better! Thanks Mark! They are steep, but they even come in T3 fitment! Would 16s be too big?? In terms of flushness, am I looking at 6" width?
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here are some photographs....

This is when I took her out the other day

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I am assuming this is a relay, what is it for?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

A badly wired switch, what is it for? Any ideas?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Blown fuse

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

What a mess!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

What does this lonely little guy do?

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and this one

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She wasn't leaking before, but she is now.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seeing the pics of your wiring sent a shiver up my spine, yikes!
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 24, 2011 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

supaninja wrote:
Seeing the pics of your wiring sent a shiver up my spine, yikes!



This is what I have been saying Nick! Thank god I got through wiring and electrical in the HVAC school I was going to. I am just trying to identify what everything is on the diagram, obviously this is not an AC unit and the components are different. Thankfully the car is a lot more simple (electrically) than most of the AC units I worked on. One of the first things I am investing in after the Bentley and some needed tools, is a bunch of electrical supplies. I am looking forward to tearing everything out of there.


Any ideas on the oil leak?
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