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"Good Vibrations" 69 bus resurrection
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 8:00 pm    Post subject: "Good Vibrations" 69 bus resurrection Reply with quote

So A few weeks back I posted about "saved two from the crusher"

Well I have decided to save the 69, and use what I can of the 73, and then part the rest..

I'm calling this a resurrection because I only plan to do what is absolutely necessary to get this bus back on the road!

This is the first bus I've ever given a name.. "Good Vibrations" as soon as my son and I pulled out on the road hauling this one home the Beach Boys came on the radeo and well....

So here it is..

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Pretty solid down under for a North East bus!

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1600 power plant! locked up from sitting..

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Just after the pull out.... check out the oil cooler... likely get rid of that? Doesn't seem like the best spot

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Found cylinder 3 to be what was locked up right near tdc. Penetrating oil and just some slight persuasion and it came free.. Hoping to get her running with gaskets, rings, and a light honing... we'll see. Heads are sure to need some attention too


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Last edited by Wrenchman12 on Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:06 pm; edited 2 times in total
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 8:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool! BTW, back in the late 70's I had a 68 bus with the oil cooler mounted just like that. I eventually moved it when a hose blew a leak right at the cooler and I had to drop the engine to fix it on a road trip.... Laughing
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

peaceful warrior wrote:
Cool! BTW, back in the late 70's I had a 68 bus with the oil cooler mounted just like that. I eventually moved it when a hose blew a leak right at the cooler and I had to drop the engine to fix it on a road trip.... Laughing


Bet it made a big mess too! Seems like this placement would cool the oil but heat the air headed to cool the heads? I'll probably just look for a stock cooler.
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peaceful warrior
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrenchman12 wrote:
peaceful warrior wrote:
Cool! BTW, back in the late 70's I had a 68 bus with the oil cooler mounted just like that. I eventually moved it when a hose blew a leak right at the cooler and I had to drop the engine to fix it on a road trip.... Laughing


Bet it made a big mess too! Seems like this placement would cool the oil but heat the air headed to cool the heads? I'll probably just look for a stock cooler.


Possibly, but that was the recommended mounting of the day.
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"Notchboy" says "Man up!"
"Tram" says " My bus is bigger than your bus."
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2011 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rip that cooler out of there. That is just plain pathetic.

Go stock cooler and location or better yet go with a stock doghouse setup.
Just get rid of that thing the way it is. Pulling engine heat out of the oil so it can shove that heat right back into the engine. It's a loser. Maybe it already has "lost" the engine.
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 11, 2011 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah agreed.. Cooler will be moved if nothing else... Replaced the slider today with a more solid door off a 73 and this one even has glass in it! Laughing Just need to swap the windshield and driver side middle glass now

Man this thing is gonna be a rat when I roll it! Twisted Evil

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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well a little bit to report... Got the other missing side window in, only have the windshield to go and the tarp can come off!

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Por 15! then primer where needed..

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Made some progress on the engine too...Cleaned everything, painted the tin, new rings, honed cylinders, new exhaust valves and cleaned up the intake valves, new push rod tubes, gaskets.. looking forward to getting it dressed now.

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420GOAT
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

this is what i like...down and dirty! drive it cause its a vw and is not meant to be a trailer queen or nos whore.
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bigbore
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So you didn't split the engine(it just don't take that much more work) case's and you think the head studs are going to hold? I think you are wasting your time then just to pull it all back out and do it again. It looks to be a later duel relief thats good but the old 10mm studs are notorious for pulling out anymore and those are the WRONG oil cooler seals for a duel relief (if Iam right) there is a special set of green seals if this is the case.
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 5:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Goat, I agree no trailer queen here.. and Bigbore I've split cases before, but if you read my mission statement at the top you would know that I am doing the minimum to get this bus back on the road... If I hadn't come along it would already be melted down in china and heading to alaska as new shiny part just for you.. If I didn't have the new exhaust valves and pushrod tubes hanging around, the old ones would have been used. Oh I supose I could dump a few grand into this motor and a few more grand into the bus but that would leave me well under water. I've gotten many servicable years out of motors with only top end rebuilds before. As far as the oil cooler seals go, thanks, will look into it.
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Inane Cathode
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wrenchman12 wrote:
Thanks Goat, I agree no trailer queen here.. and Bigbore I've split cases before, but if you read my mission statement at the top you would know that I am doing the minimum to get this bus back on the road... If I hadn't come along it would already be melted down in china and heading to alaska as new shiny part just for you.. If I didn't have the new exhaust valves and pushrod tubes hanging around, the old ones would have been used. Oh I supose I could dump a few grand into this motor and a few more grand into the bus but that would leave me well under water. I've gotten many servicable years out of motors with only top end rebuilds before. As far as the oil cooler seals go, thanks, will look into it.


It's not 'a few grand' to split the case and have the main bearing bores line bored and put in $50 in bearings in it, and another $100 in stud work. I would say that would be "minimum" in my book.
A 1600 is not a long lasting engine, especially in a bus, and especially when its in the condition you found it. Do you not think the PO drove that thing into the ground, or did he just happen to park it with a good motor for years?
Obviously it's up to you what you do to your ride. You mentioned getting serviceable years out of motors with top end rebuilds, i hope this is one of them.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh the samba is so predictable.. so easy to be critical.. Money doesn't grow on trees in Newmarket, even U.S. Grants.. This bus is 3rd in line in my yard.. and will be a fun driver when I'm done.. They don't all have to be trophy buses.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 8:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i see you want to make do with your stock of parts ...i get it. if it fails then fugggit. Wink im sure you wiggled the rods for wear check. go for it.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 22, 2011 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

to each his own I would at least check end play pull a rod or two to check the bearings and dummy up 2 cylinders and a head so you can pull up those head bolts with about 30 pounds of torque to see if the threads are still good. I haven't don't this in some time you may ask over on the engine threads on the amount of torque for testing but I think is about 30 pounds. Is the case duel relief? hears the seal kit you need to run with the older single port cooler(the seal has 2 sizes because the case holes are bigger then the oil cooler).there is 2 kit there so you can see the part number.you need those copper washers to space up the cooler so you don't pitch shut the seals.

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hear is the two type of single port oil coolers both will work on ether duel or single relief case but its nice to have it right. the one with black paint on the bottom is for a duel relief it has bigger oil holes and if you look close around the 6mm studs the steel is pressed so the cooler will stand proud to keep from pinching the seal so it won't need the washers and that cooler doesn't need the special green seals it uses the thin red seal that come in the gasket kits not the thick ones.

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I have seen SO MANY vw engine die from this being done wrong.
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Went with these.. thanks bigbore

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Just need to go through the fuel system (carb,pump,tank, fuel lines)and prep the engine compartment..

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Pulled the dents out of the nose..
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Twisted Evil

before

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Engine looks good I can understand just getting something up and running cheep I have so many myself to get going its hard to make them all top notch I just can afford it.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nose looks good. What did you do to pull it? Football and compressed air?
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kirk wrote:
Nose looks good. What did you do to pull it? Football and compressed air?

From all the little dots I would say a slide hammer.
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Wrenchman12
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Was a slide hammer..

The cold weather broke and I got to spend half the day in the engine compartment!

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Cleaned and degreased the other day..

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Cut and ground out the rusted driverside tray.. Was going to just patch in but the rust was into the corner so I decided to make a complete new tray.. Passengerside/Battery tray is in better shape and rust is not into the corner so I may just patch in? we'll see

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Fit new tray I bent..

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Banged out a few dents

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Started to cut and grind above the decklid in preporation of transplant metal

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Cleaned and rebuilt the carb the other day too

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Hope the mild weather holds through tomorrow so I can keep pluggin away #2gunfire
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 8:36 am    Post subject: M Codes Reply with quote

M code Plate

Have you looked up the codes on this Bus? I'm interested to see if this Bus is Kansas Beige or Savanna.

The M plate is behind the drivers seat, it will be painted the same color as the interior sometimes if you're in low light you can over look it. Write down all the numbers and then you can go VW-Mplate.com and enter the numbers and it will give ya a little history on it.

Here is my '70 Bus M-plate decoded.
'70 Bus
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