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Shift rod ear repair kit review
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RidersRule
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my case (82) only the right side ear has a hole. The left does not appear to be broken off and the real wear / shiny spot is where it contacts the teflon or plastic piece attached to the wall of the box. This box does not have the larger metal guide piece on the left like the later models, so I question whether or not it was ever covered by a plastic.....
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trailnewt
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2012 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

purplepeopleeater wrote:
What brand of silicone grease are you guys using?

everyone gives me the stink eye when I go in to my FLAPS asking for silicone based grease. Mad


Commonly used in bicycle shops for lubing shocks. Goes by several names, "Slick Honey", "Judy Butter," etc.

Brent
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RBEmerson
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

RidersRule wrote:
In my case (82) only the right side ear has a hole. The left does not appear to be broken off and the real wear / shiny spot is where it contacts the teflon or plastic piece attached to the wall of the box. This box does not have the larger metal guide piece on the left like the later models, so I question whether or not it was ever covered by a plastic.....


Let others, with far more background in these vehicles than I have, speak definitively, but something doesn't sound right here. Plastic on one ear and plastic on the opposite cam? That sure isn't what I'd expect. Is it possible you're seeing someone's creative repair work?
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kpbo
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everything went smoothly. Took the opportunity to hit the rod and shift box with some POR15. Thanks Chris!

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FNGRUVN
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did mine. Nice kit. Real quick and easy job.

Thanks again, Chris.
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rsxsr
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:00 am    Post subject: Waited Too Long Reply with quote

Hello, I Finally got around to dropping my front shift rod to install the guides. The longer side after some finishing fits fine, but the opposite side, the metal is worn below where the the rivet hole should be? This shift rod is from an 89. I am probably going to have to build it up with weld or add a peice of steel and refinish. I could use a clearer picture or two of the shift rod without bushings installed. Measurements would be helpful too. I can't really see what I need in the pictures at the start of this thread. Anyone? I would appreciate it. Thank you. mark

Mine.

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Christopher Schimke Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This illustration was drawn up by a very talented customer.

Dimensions:
A = 6.91mm

B = 7.68mm

I can't remember what dimensions D and C are, but I will get those and edit this when I do.

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rsxsr
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welding onto the worn section and grinding to shape worked out pretty good. It was more of a "eyeball" and "fit" job than a precise measurement job. The guide bushings installed and fit well. I did notice when adjusting my shift rod, that my rod needs to be shortened to better center it in the shift box. A result of mixing and match parts from the conversion.

I have an odd problem where reverse selects fine, but coming out of reverse, the shift lever won't "come off" the reverse lockout section of the shift box without depressing the shift lever to help it. It was doing this before the guides, so I was looking closer and the design is not much of a ramp for returning the shift linkage to neutral from reverse. In a way it makes sense if you need to push it down to select reverse, you would need to do the same coming out of reverse.

I was looking through Bentley and noticed the 5 speed appears to have a "spring" peice that I bet pushes the shifter off of the reverse, granny lockout. That must be one of the differences mentioned that I had never seen before. Chris thanks for supporting our habit and the quick reply yesterday. mark

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bosruten
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 1:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe it is the angles in the picture but, something doesn't look right. Unknown dimension D?
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rsxsr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see it now, to bad I did not see it at the time. At one point in this rods life, probably the plastic fell off on the reverse first side. Rather than fix it properly, someone must have bent the metal tang up to keep it from selecting reverse at some point in it's life. See red arrow.

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In hindsight, if I had really paid attention, the first reverse side should have been more like 90 degrees and then up. While it does work for 1 st and 2nd and reverse lockout is working, I think what is happening is it is too "tight" on the reverse catch as suggested measurement "D" is too short. Oh well, live and learn. That also explains why it was doing this before adding the bushings. I also have a Gene Berg short shift bushing added which probably extends the shift rod end down. And does not help.

I will keep my eye out for another rod. I have the orginal shift linkage from the 82, but it is not the same as the later ones. I will check it on shop night. I might be able to cut the end off of the original shift rod, since I wanted to shorten it about a half inch anyhow. Chris, I may be ordering another repair kit if you have one. Other than reverse, sure shifts nice. Oh well. Live and learn. mark
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trailnewt
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Van Cafe recently announced they have new shift rods in stock with bushings attached.
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_1613_332/selector_shaft_front_2wd.html
Brent
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rsxsr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brent, thanks for posting. I noticed they have the bucket as well. I am leaning towards getting both at this point and to be done with it. They list it for 84-85, but not for the 86 and on. ETKA shows the same part number for the later years. Might check with them before ordering.

The modifed shift rod end gouged the 1st reverse side pretty well and from running no ears, the 3rd 4th is also carved pretty good. Thanks again. Can't believe I missed it.
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BillM
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is the box and shift Ross aftermarket? With the price of parts
from the Classic Part Division I am assuming not. It's great these
parts are available again either way as long as the quality is
good. I'd like to hear from someone that has purchased them
how they look.
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Christopher Schimke Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Marc,

Man, sorry that you put the work into your tab and it didn't turn out right. It's probably a bit late for this, but hopefully it will help someone else in the future.

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bosruten
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Compare the wing from your 82 with the other. Good chance they match. Wash the old one off and fit the 82 wing in it's place. Be accurate with the fit. I used the hole in the wing and some simple math to off-center it on the rod. The aluminum bolt on part in the shift box is available through vanagain.com for $20 search for part number 251711176.
I had the same thing going on and and used this approach. I'm happy with the result. You should be able to reclaim the Holman tips if your gentle.

Good luck and sorry for being the bad guy. Embarassed

Tim
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rsxsr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Christopher, no problem. I usually learn more when things don't work out. I wondered why after upgrading to the 091/1 transmission that reverse acted odd compared to the original transmission. Of course, all the linkage came from the U pickum yard. I just never paid close enough attention and attributed it to the engine conversion, saab engine mounts etc. What is the expression? Hindsight is 20/20.

All of this is solvable and if someone is trying to do this, they may come across this thread. Thanks for posting the comparison. mark

edit. Tim, no worries. I feel better now that I see it. mark
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bosruten
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You should not have to shorten the rod, use the point where the two rods connect to adjust for length. If you do swap them, put the old rod in the vise and use the lower portion of the wing and level it. once it is level...then wash it off. Don't move the rod until the new wing is atleast tacked on before you weld.
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rsxsr
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The spline section of the rod is fully seated. I even cut off some from the splined end to get the maximum seating. The 091/1 transmission is longer than the earlier one. When I upgraded, rather than redo the engine mounting, I modified the transmission bracket to let the transmission sit further forward. The shift lever is just short of being centered. It is workable for now. I should also mention, in addition to the short shift peice, I am also using the diesel shifter support plate on top of the floor. It is angled towards the driver and I like it better than the flatter one that came on the later models. It puts the shifter closer to my leg.

I think if some one had not tried to "save" the original rod it would have all worked out fine. I could try and reuse the new ends, but between the epoxy and the "one use" aluminum rivets, probably would not be worth the headache at this point. I already wasted an afternoon and then to add insult to injury, posted my ignorance on the internet for all to see.

I was trying to keep the original linkage intact since I still have the original transmission and someone might want the linkage to work out a diesel conversion. Thanks again. At least I know how to solve it. I sent a message to Van Cafe asking about the fittment. It is nice to see the aluminum 3 / 4 bracket is available, but the steel 1/2/r side took the worse of it. So maybe a replacement box at this point is the way to go. At least the parts are available. Thanks again. mark

edit: Van Cafe replied back and the rod does fit 84 through the end of production 4 speeds. They thanked me for pointing it out and have updated the online catalog. Went to order and the box is not in stock. At this point, I really want to do it just one more time and be done.
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rsxsr
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, the early shift rod is different from the later shift rod. It only has a bushing on the 1st/Reverse side. The 3rd/4th side has no bushing, but has a plastic wear plate that snaps into the box itself. When I say early, I am talking about the 3 peice shift rod not the 2 peice. I uploaded pictures of my early end. Seems I can't catch a break with this. I post these only as information to someone considering installing these bushings on the early vanagons. I do think the replacement bushing would work on the 1st / Reverse or r/s. It has the correct shape and the required hole. mark

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Benjamin Gell
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2012 10:38 am    Post subject: T3 kit caution-Don't do what I did! Reply with quote

I recently got the T3 kit and have installed it on the shift rod using a little chrome hobby vise as recommended to compress the pin.

First one went fine but: I got a bit too anal on the 2nd one and overtightened the vise (even though its handle is only about 3 inches long!). At least I assume I over-expanded the pin because a hairline crack appeared below the pin on the inside face of the new ear. I've decided to install it anyway and see how it holds up, since the alternative is to spend $ on another kit from T3. Also I don't expect it'll leave me stranded even if it breaks or loosens.

Just hoping to help others avoid the same mistake.

In a related note, some previous mechanic had overtightened the pinch clamp on the shift rods, deforming the rods out-of-round. This may make doing the adjustment difficult, as there is supposed to be free movement there. I plan to use a pair of vise-grips, one on each rod, to make it easier to rotate the rods relative to each other. Anyone else found this condition?
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