Dashboard removal real time help

[randywebb]

smack each one with a hammer right on the end

put the vise-grips on sideways as tight as hell with the teeth biting into the cone heads, tearing them up, so the vise-grips close in the counter-clockwise removal rotation/direction

then smack the end of the plier with a steel hammer

"Impact is Your Friend."

if it still doesn't work, hose it down with Kroil & tap with a hammer - repeat every hour for 2 weeks -- you will win if you are more stubborn than the adhesive forces on the fastener
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1986 2.1L Westy 2wd Auto Trans.

[DAIZEE]

Nope, nothing worked but that's because I am week. Can't even get the vice grips closed. Also tried drilling out with a Torx, Drilling out with a bit, grinding with a file. I'm just plain not strong enough but I knew 2 years ago this was coming. One of the reasons I was emotional re old Scooby wasting my time. To take a lug nut off I'd have to stand on it and/or jump (to change a tire!). Nature of disorder.

I'll just have to find a strong man for the right reasons. It's hard for me to ask someone to do something but if I want to move forward, I'll just have to. THANKs all. You all will hear me screaming with JOY when those monsters come out.
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83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 97 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (for sale)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Mental Health issues affect us all. Ignorance is not bliss. It's up to each of us to educate ourselves.

[insyncro]

Use an EZ Out.....2 seconds each.

[ipclark]

Here's another approach. No strength required.
Get yourself a Dremel tool or similar with a cut off wheel. Cut off the cone and then cut a slot for a flathead screw driver in the shear bolt. Use a manual impact driver to loosen the bolt. You hit it forceably with a hammer to loosen it.

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8311615/Impact-Drivers/9-pc-Manual-Impact-Driver-Set
Canadian tire will have them also. Handy thing to have when working on motorcycles by the way and old vanagons.
Righty tighty, lefty loosey
You had said that you were hitting it with a hammer from the cockpit side and the rear. What did you mean by that? If it means what I think it means you may have damaged the threads, possibly that's why they are so hard to remove.
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1984 VW Westfalia Bostig Zetec Powered
Daily Driver 2010 VW Golf Wagon TDI, DSG

[DAIZEE]

ok spent a couple hours in Princess Auto with a really great tool guy and we went thru all my options. At this time I'm going with a pair of strong hands (someone else's ) and my vice grips that have good teeth on them. Scheduled help for Thursday am. I've got to get back at this job and make headway. Thanks for all your ideas and positive encouragement.

I feel very confident that before I put it all back together, well I'll for sure have the odd question or shout out for help. Mucho appreciated.
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83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 97 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (for sale)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Mental Health issues affect us all. Ignorance is not bliss. It's up to each of us to educate ourselves.

[dubbified]

mm, did that last summer....

I dont miss the dash work.. although it was easier than my MKII Gti..

Sentiments of friends and passersby were that I was insane, crazy, or out of my mind..

Yep.. Check I own a Vanagon!

[DAIZEE]

Yep, I get asked WHY are you doing this, it's good to have a list of reasons because otherwise one would have to be crazy to do it but besides my work list, I want to see and clean and prevent any future problems. It's like 29 years since it's been exposed. I also didn't take my seats out and they will need a cleaning when I'm finished for sure. Took carpet out tho.

Like I look at your pic and I'd feel sick if I didn't have one myself THAT gives me encouragment.
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83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 97 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (for sale)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Mental Health issues affect us all. Ignorance is not bliss. It's up to each of us to educate ourselves.

[epaddler]

I'm about to pull the dash to replace blower motor, heater core, control valve, etc. I currently have the radiator dropped to replace it and coolant lines. Is there any advantage to leaving radiator out when accessing/removing heater box? After reading all the posts about those maddening heater box fasteners, I thought I should check before finishing up the bottom work.
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1989 Syncro Westy
My build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=450246

[teej]

I have not yet pulled the dash, but it is a piece of cake to replace the heater control valve with the radiator out of the way.
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1986+ Wolfsburg Weekender Pop-Top 2.1 WBX

[epaddler]

[dhaavers]

epaddler: a non-issue, I'd say. Heater is all inside & radiator is all outside.
New heater hoses while you're there, perhaps?

"Git 'r done!"
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86 White Westy Weekender
"The WonderVan"

[epaddler]

Yeah. Im replacing all the heater hoses as we speak. Will have to order the two expensive hoses to the rear heater core. Thought i could use regular heater hose, but the ends widen to fit core. There goes another $140.
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1989 Syncro Westy
My build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=450246

[DAIZEE]

FINALLY, today got those 2 gull darn cone shaped shear bolts off the top of the steering wheel. 3 different mechanics plus myself couldn't budge them. Tried cutting a groove in them to use a flat head, NOTHING worked. It was like the rust was solid solid with the rear nut and threads and the rear nut and washer are welded in. Today I used a crompressed air hack saw and got the heads off. Tomorrow the 2 lower nuts and bolts should be easier. I was hoping I wouldn't have to undo them but I do so I will. THEN I hope I just have to navigate the dash out!

Quick question>> the two moveable heater/air vents on the front of each end of the dash. Do I need to undo them first? and how do I do that? This prolonged first speed bump sure has gotten me down so I'd sure like to just whip the dash off.
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83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 97 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (for sale)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Mental Health issues affect us all. Ignorance is not bliss. It's up to each of us to educate ourselves.

[IdahoDoug]

No, they stay in the dash. U wking w directions so u know what else to remove?
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Two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2013 Subaru Impreza boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V

[westfailed]

Have your 7mm wrench ready to undo the wire vent controls. It's not necessary but label each one with a masking tape tag for a sure thing reconnect. Take lots of deep breaths and no Grrrrrrrrrrrrs or when you get in there

[DAIZEE]

Thank you. I am working with Ben's instructions and pictures on my laptop on passenger seat. Bentley has pretty sparse info on this job. Ben's the Best.
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83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 97 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (for sale)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Mental Health issues affect us all. Ignorance is not bliss. It's up to each of us to educate ourselves.

[DAIZEE]

WHAT A DAY!!!! OK worked totally on my own today, figured out the right tools, etc... and you may have heard the YAHOO screams at about 0945 am. Easterm Time.

Think I got the dash off all by myself yesterday.

Today I removed the bottom 2 bolts on the steering column and then started on the heater/blower rig. With the ratchet I got 5 of 6 screws out. When I took the rig out found the 6th screw. The black plastic retainer had broken off (actually I think 3 were in pieces). I had to detangle some lines and undo one cable but did the lines one at a time and labelled them and voila out came the ENTIRE heater/blower rig! Was I ever impressed with me.

Took it inside the shop and took it all apart (myself as everyone was too busy to ask any questions) Thank goodness it was not glued together. Yes several nests in there and a seized motor , I decided to dedicate the day to working on the heater/blower rigs so that if I need to order parts I can go ahead.

Not only nests but actually 4/5 of one small hard shell nut that had been eaten (makes me think the same squirrels that ruined the rear foam etc... when it sat in WA state for years). So vacuumed and scraped entire shell, will address core later, took the motor out of its case, cleaned it up, lubricated the crap out of it and will do more on Friday and get Nelson to test it again for me but I think it is toast. heater core definitely dirty (I think it was on the bottom - almost identical to Ben's picture of a garbage one). Cleaned it up looks good but I asked for opinions. I don't know that it is leaking, all the fins look okay but ????

Is there any way I can test the core for leaks? I filled it with water and put it in a drain bowl but I realize it is a closed pressurized system. Do I just have to bite the bullet and get a new one?

Took the 4 (2 + 2) heater hoses and cleaned them inside and out as I did with the 2 pieces of the 'rig' and degreased the cables and cleaned them, then sprayed them with penetrating oil until I put new grease on them when reinstalled. I'm not putting anything dirty back in that van. Will also clean all the screws, etc...

So I read the thread on FRONT heater core (I removed the rear 2 years ago but have stored it) and I'm confused (perhaps the controversies confused me). Economics is an issue for me

1. Front heater core 1983.5: I see various prices posted and that they were NLA in 2009 but I'm thinking they are now available again as I did read in the Newspaper some months ago that VW is remanufacturing some OEMS as there is a demand. So FROM WHERE and what's a good price (I think I am correct in investing in a new one while I've got this all apart as Scooby is in good shape and no real rust and I might be driving it next winter (but not in eastern salt land)) and considering reselling a good van in the future. I want to make sure I get the absolute correct core. Do I need to replace the 'grills' or just clean them. There is some rust but I don't know if the moisture is coming from the windshield or the heater core. Sorry but I've never had a sense of smell so I can't tell.

2. Front Motor 1983.5: New or Used? FROM WHERE and what's a good price?

3. What is the difference between OE and OEM (I think I know)

4. Heater carrying hoses (not coolant hoses) I've cleaned them and will let them air dry for days or weeks. Do they need replacement? When I filled them with water there were no apparent leaks. The 2 smaller ones sorta feel like they may be cardboard? Tell me this is not so!

5. Flapper seals. What was left just disintegrated into dust when I touched them so I've scrubbed and cleaned all dirt from entire 'rig'. What do I need to buy and for what areas? I think I read someplace about felt or should it be fairly soft (pliable) foam?

6. 2 Dash windshield vents had 30 yr old what looked like webbed duct tape. It disintegrated so I removed it all. Do I need to replace it? What with?

7. If you think I have missed anything, please fill me in = GREAT

8. Stick on rubber around the motor housing? What to replace it with? I'm thinking one sided sticky narrow strip.

9. Passenger windshield wash hose. First it's never worked but today I see that it is attached behind a frame. Can I undo the wash jet from outside?. I don't seem to have access from the inside unless I remove the ENTIRE outside panel. Is that the motor on the upper right side of dash? I have new hose and Y connector but I can't figure out how to get at it. HELP (see I still need you all ) Can I replace the jets outside with OEM or would love to put double jets in?????

I had an AMAZING day and my hands are still somewhat black even tho I scrubbed them with mechanic cleaner and a brush. I did it ALL myself and made my own decisions. I definitely have to get one of those long ratchett extensions. So much easier than the shorter one.

I'm taking tomorrow off from the van to do my income tax and a trip to Princess Auto so I will look for your answers. I really appreciate your help. Once I get this 'rig' all taken care of then I will clean the dash and consider lining it for sound deadening, any issues with doing that that I should be aware of? Do wiring and fuse holder. I noticed that the round ground hook ups on the left front pillar are very rusted and very deteriorated. What should I do about that?

RE 1 and 2 above. It's an 83.5 WBX, is it the same equipment as an air cooled Vanagon? Should I contact Scott at German Air Supply?

EDIT: re heater motor, as its out and only about $59.00 + shipping, I think I'll put a new one in. I think that is that route to go. As for the core I'm still choking on that one. Is there any way to test it. ? plug one hole and pressure test thru other hole???
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83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 97 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (for sale)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Mental Health issues affect us all. Ignorance is not bliss. It's up to each of us to educate ourselves.

[SteelB12]

That PAX side washer nozzle was a PITA to deal with. I had to have my girlfriend help me replace it. Mine didn't work either and I figured it was a clogged nozzle so I removed it. Turns out the hose coming from the driver side, where it Ts off, had a little piece of metal stuck in it. No clue where it came from, but that is what was preventing fluid from getting to the nozzle. Maybe you can check first if the hose is blocked and that will save you the trouble of replacing the nozzle. I really don't think you can replace the nozzle alone unless you have REALLY long arms.
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1987 Westy

[DAIZEE]

So maybe I should check the hosing with a turkey baster or such.? mm I'll have to think of this. I suppose I should take off the ww motor, clean it up and lube it while I have it all apart, right?

and sorry I don't know what you mean by really long arms.
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83.5 Vanagon L Riviera Model with 97 1.9L TD AAZ 4 speed Daily Driver 3 out of 4 seasons (for sale)
84 Vanagon GL Wolfsburg Westy WBX 4 speed (sold)

Mental Health issues affect us all. Ignorance is not bliss. It's up to each of us to educate ourselves.

[westfailed]

D: #1-if the heater core never leaked and the veins look undamaged I'd re-use it
#4-those paper heater hoses are normal-but fragile.They only transfer air .If there is any damage just repair with aluminum foil tape (furnace tape)
#9- blow compressed air into the WWasher nozzle from outside. If there is a blockage this should dislodge it back toward the tank.
That rubber seal around the motor is for vibration-reuse what you can or substitute with thin foam leftover from the vents.