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60 Single Cab Build-Pics
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OTO X58
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 29, 2011 8:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome work bringing one back from the dead!
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 11:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys. I've been spending about 4-12 hrs a week for a little over 2 years now and the end is now in sight. The amount of grunt work can be overwhelming and tedious. You have to be a very motivated and patient person to get this far all by yourself. I get myself pretty sore and always end up getting burned, cut and crap in my eyes no matter how careful I am. Confused

I have a new baby and full time job. It takes a lot of passion to get up early and make time for this. It's nice to see people appreciate that.
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ThreeSpeed
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks really great!

Keep going.. dove blue?

Trevor
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2011 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ThreeSpeed wrote:
Looks really great!

Keep going.. dove blue?

Trevor


I love dove blue, but I'm going with L345 light grey (OG color). A couple pics back you can see the apron and engine compartment are painted already. The gates came from a dove blue truck, though.
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 14, 2011 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been trying to button up the treasure chest so I can paint it and weld on the upper bed skins. Here, I did some measuring and welded on the latch peices that secure the t/c doors to the body. Much easier to do without the bed in the way.

I also test fitted the modified hinges for the doors, now they don't stick out at the top.

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austin haro
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 15, 2011 4:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congratulations, great work.
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 40hp crank start apron and engine tin.... They are supposed to exist but very hard to find. Most people say you should just modify them to fit. Here's my version of it.....
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I heated the panel and worked a nice dimple with the head of a ball peen hammer in a vise. Wink

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Last edited by roachdub58 on Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:14 am; edited 2 times in total
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just need to drill a hole in the tin and trim up the shape of the flap. I'm getting all my engine externals mocked up and ready to blast and paint satin black. Small hinge available at your local hardware store. Very Happy


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south_island_surf
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 08, 2012 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right on, keep 'em coming!
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, it looks like I got the right heater boxes.....

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BUT...it looks like they've been cut down to fit a 36hp? Mad
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crank start flap and hole are done

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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mocking up the fit of alternator parts and 40hp fan. Looks like I nailed it on the first try. Fan is really really straight and nothing rubs. Although it doesn''t look as vintage, I really need it for the extra goodies- fog light, seat warmers, stereo, trailer lights, etc. (I will be putting a nice hitch setup on!)

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and....I just noticed more holes to weld up. It never ends...

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south_island_surf
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

roachdub58 wrote:
It never ends...


Don't say that! I'd love to be where you are in your build!

Really like your thread, keep the updates coming!
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 7:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

roachdub58 wrote:
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BUT...it looks like they've been cut down to fit a 36hp? Mad


Are those interchangeable 36/40 horse? I know as the muffler end rotted you could cut back the pipe and buy various length extenders.
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BarryL wrote:
roachdub58 wrote:
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BUT...it looks like they've been cut down to fit a 36hp? Mad


Are those interchangeable 36/40 horse? I know as the muffler end rotted you could cut back the pipe and buy various length extenders.


Well, all my research here led me to believe all boxes with the oval tin connection, instead of circle are 40hp. Also, the preheat nipple on the left box. With a marker, someone wrote "59" on them and they probably were on a 36hp at one time. Pics in the gallery show 36hp mufflers with a much longer pipe on the muffler end of the connection. I'm just glad I am pre fitting all this before final assembly and paint. I understand the need for patience when making it right. The engine was originally fresh air, so all stale air bits are coming from random other engines.
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

To go with my vintage speed theme, I wanted something a little different from stock. I really just don't like the look of the stock tail pipe. It looks pretty wimpy and I didn't want the resonator. Not to mention all the bits and pieces to put it together properly. As a bonus, I saved money too.


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Last edited by roachdub58 on Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:22 pm; edited 3 times in total
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 21, 2012 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There is about 1/4" clearance between the pipe and muffler, but the pics don't show it. I'll put some heat reflective stuff on the back of the apron to fight blistered paint. I like that the muffler is solid, with no hardware to rattle loose and exhaust donuts that will eventually leak.

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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While waiting for more engine stuff to complete that paint project, I decided to spray the sunvisor I got at the swap meet. I used laquer thinner and a soft brush to carefully remove all the peeling and deteriorated original paint. Then, I mixed up the color and added flattening agent to acrylic urethane single stage. Before I do the satin paint on the engine tins, I wanted to find the right ratio for that factory looking sheen. In these pics you can see the nice contrast of grey colors the factory used, and the difference in gloss. The only bad thing is, that this is the only part on the truck that is this color, so a ton of paint and flattening additive gets wasted just to do it right.

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Last edited by roachdub58 on Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:37 am; edited 1 time in total
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EverettB Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 29, 2012 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice.

Next time I have a messed up one I will try the brush and lacquer thinner on it.
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roachdub58
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EverettB wrote:
Very nice.

Next time I have a messed up one I will try the brush and lacquer thinner on it.


Thanks, I should also mention that the "thinner" I used is pretty mild California compliant stuff
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