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DocWible
Samba Member
Joined: November 30, 2006
Posts: 24
Location: Round Rock, Texas
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 Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 11:26 am Post subject: |
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Just a curiosity question, how much extra weight do you think the bed liner paint added to the car? It would seem to me that the bed liner would be heavier than regular paint, but mayben its not...  |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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The whole kit probably weighed about 25 lbs in kit form.
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If you blame others when you fail, give them credit when you succeed!
1973 Bugeye Baja
My current project with my teenage son, Ryan.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537929 |
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Copernicus
Samba Member
Joined: November 22, 2011
Posts: 255
Location: Sandy, Utah
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:38 pm Post subject: |
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I used herculiner. Probably weighed about the same. Most things you here about it adding a lot if weight is untrue
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1970 standard baja, roller.
1970 standard baja, 1915cc |
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DocWible
Samba Member
Joined: November 30, 2006
Posts: 24
Location: Round Rock, Texas
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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| Interesting, I guess in the ends its still just paint. Thanks for the info. |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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| Posted: Mon Feb 20, 2012 10:02 pm Post subject: |
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Its getting closer...
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If you blame others when you fail, give them credit when you succeed!
1973 Bugeye Baja
My current project with my teenage son, Ryan.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537929 |
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vwboat
Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2011
Posts: 69
Location: Phoenix,AZ
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:01 am Post subject: engine endplay |
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BTC,
I think you are going to have your engine back in before me. I have mine back togather and was checking endplay while getting ready to put in main seal and found that my endplay was way way off. Think I need to tear it back down and split case and do a total rebuild. Didn't check endplay before I did the heads and p@c, my bad.
case may need machine work or may be junk, I will know when I get it apart.
Dirtjunkie, know a good machine shop?
John |
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Dirt Junkie
Samba Member
Joined: July 12, 2005
Posts: 146
Location: Phoenix, AZ
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 9:37 am Post subject: |
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European Machine is the best in town.
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Club AZ Baja President!
or as my boys call me "El Presidente"
Now Celebrating my 27th year of being Addicted to VWs. |
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vwboat
Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2011
Posts: 69
Location: Phoenix,AZ
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| Posted: Tue Feb 21, 2012 8:00 pm Post subject: endplay |
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Thanks Dirt Junkie for the info. I will tear my engine down and see what's inside and go from there.
John |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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pafree
Samba Member
Joined: August 16, 2005
Posts: 2204
Location: dayton, the one in texas
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| Posted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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| that engine is going to look and sound good in your car. |
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auslander
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2003
Posts: 1748
Location: Heart Of Dixie
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| Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 8:50 am Post subject: |
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Coming along nicely 
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Wandering
66 POS Bus
69 Class 11 Beetle
!!! F**k Cancer !!!
Time's Tide will Smother You
"You can't throw a rock in Long Beach without hitting a tweaker" Steve Tucci |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:55 am Post subject: |
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There were a few set backs, but I hope it will be back on yhe road today. I picked up some KYB shocks for the front as my last outing blew the front shocks and ripped the ball joint boots. I'll need to do something aboit those later.
I have been contemplating how to seal the engine since I have a 3" body lift. I saw Earthquake cut his metal seal groove off and welded on a 3" extension. I wonder if I could find 3" of rubber and somehow affix it to the factory style seal? Maybe a roll of 3" flexible fender flare that I attach to the tin, upwards and run the engine seal from the body to meet it? I like this idea but wonder how they would withstand heat from the engine compartment. http://www.jcwhitney.com/rubber-fender-extensions-fender-flares/p2008750.jcwx?filterid=j1
Another thought I have is forgoing the seal and looking for another method of preventing heat from building in my engine. Perhaps keeping the decklid off? Using decklid standoffs? Modifying my stock decklid so that much of the sheet metal is replaced with expanded metal like my running boards?
_________________
If you blame others when you fail, give them credit when you succeed!
1973 Bugeye Baja
My current project with my teenage son, Ryan.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537929 |
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dirtkeeper
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2008
Posts: 1904
Location: Left of everywhere
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| Posted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 11:17 am Post subject: |
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| biblethumpncop wrote: |
There were a few set backs, but I hope it will be back on yhe road today. I picked up some KYB shocks for the front as my last outing blew the front shocks and ripped the ball joint boots. I'll need to do something aboit those later.
I have been contemplating how to seal the engine since I have a 3" body lift. I saw Earthquake cut his metal seal groove off and welded on a 3" extension. I wonder if I could find 3" of rubber and somehow affix it to the factory style seal? Maybe a roll of 3" flexible fender flare that I attach to the tin, upwards and run the engine seal from the body to meet it? I like this idea but wonder how they would withstand heat from the engine compartment. http://www.jcwhitney.com/rubber-fender-extensions-fender-flares/p2008750.jcwx?filterid=j1
Another thought I have is forgoing the seal and looking for another method of preventing heat from building in my engine. Perhaps keeping the decklid off? Using decklid standoffs? Modifying my stock decklid so that much of the sheet metal is replaced with expanded metal like my running boards? |
currently on mine i did cut out the ledge and lip and lowered the stock seal. this is nice because it also helps in that the spark plug access isnt blocked by that sheet metal in the stock location with the 3 " lift. tedious little job but worth it. Originally what i had for many years was i attached a piece of metal on the edges of the tin at the outer edge on the sides that came up and met the engine rubber seal, around the front i had a piece of some 1/2 " by 2" or so rubber that stood vertical and flexed around the curved front of the compartment. Not sure where i got that rubber but it came off a tire ??maybe or something else i found lying around at the time. This set up sealed well but i am happy that i lowered the whole seal location for the spark plug access. Another method may be to use the stock seal on the compartment and then screw an additional stock seal onto the engine tin, but the seals do get dried out and deformed and may not seal permanently.
As far as cooling you should be ok . I have a larger engine and i have over heat issues only hot days because i need to get an engine lid that has the vent s in it or use standoffs. This would help with your cooling too if you need it. I have also considered doing screened hole behind the license plate. I really like the looks of the non vented hood. |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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| Posted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:46 am Post subject: |
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Thanks Earthquake.
She's alive! Smooth and 50% more power than the little 1385. What a difference in power. Imagine addind 15-20 hp on your engine. Thats what I did by switching engines. The Tri Mill muffler has a deep, throaty sound.
_________________
If you blame others when you fail, give them credit when you succeed!
1973 Bugeye Baja
My current project with my teenage son, Ryan.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537929 |
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AZ-BUG
Samba Member
Joined: January 27, 2008
Posts: 361
Location: AZ
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| Posted: Wed Mar 14, 2012 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Sweet! Sounds like someone is enjoying his "new" ride! |
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vwboat
Samba Member
Joined: July 21, 2011
Posts: 69
Location: Phoenix,AZ
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| Posted: Fri Mar 16, 2012 8:06 am Post subject: tight rod journal |
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BTC,
All parts back from shop. Starting to set up crank. all new bearings(rod and main and cam) everything is standard size. One of the rods doesn't seem right on the crank. The rod seems to tight on any journal, all other rods fit good on any journal.Checked rod bearings and they are standard size and the rod checks out ok as far as being round. put rod on journal and torked it to spec and it seems better but still really tight on journal. Have to think about this for awhile. Crank was polished while in the shop.
Good to hear your engine is running GREAT, hope mine will be OK.
John |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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| Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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I hooked up the fresh air hoses and heater tubes, then miunted the front KYB shocks. I filled up with 87 octane, which is cool because I had to run 91 octane with the 1385cc engine. I am trying to put some miles on it this weekend so I can break it in and drain oil/adjust valves.
The carb's choke isn't working right, so that will get worked on this week.
_________________
If you blame others when you fail, give them credit when you succeed!
1973 Bugeye Baja
My current project with my teenage son, Ryan.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537929 |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 10:21 am Post subject: |
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Changed the oil and adjusted valves. I'm fabricating an engine seal extension using a firehose. I have a 3" gap because of the body lift. I figure the firehose should withstand the engine compartment temps, and be flexible enough to allow some room to change the spark plugs.
_________________
If you blame others when you fail, give them credit when you succeed!
1973 Bugeye Baja
My current project with my teenage son, Ryan.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537929 |
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dirtkeeper
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2008
Posts: 1904
Location: Left of everywhere
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 11:10 am Post subject: |
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| biblethumpncop wrote: |
| Changed the oil and adjusted valves. I'm fabricating an engine seal extension using a firehose. I have a 3" gap because of the body lift. I figure the firehose should withstand the engine compartment temps, and be flexible enough to allow some room to change the spark plugs. |
good idea  |
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biblethumpncop
Samba Member
Joined: September 02, 2004
Posts: 435
Location: Surprise, AZ
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| Posted: Sun Mar 18, 2012 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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| dirtkeeper wrote: |
| biblethumpncop wrote: |
| Changed the oil and adjusted valves. I'm fabricating an engine seal extension using a firehose. I have a 3" gap because of the body lift. I figure the firehose should withstand the engine compartment temps, and be flexible enough to allow some room to change the spark plugs. |
good idea |
Yep, the firehose worked. I used a nut/bolt every 4" to hold the firehose to the rubber seal. Then I drilled holes in my tin and mounted the firehose to it. I may look for an adhesive/contact cement that will seal the two rubber items together in the spaces between each bolt.
_________________
If you blame others when you fail, give them credit when you succeed!
1973 Bugeye Baja
My current project with my teenage son, Ryan.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=537929 |
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