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Pics on a transmission I got. Are these parts good to go?
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:37 pm    Post subject: Pics on a transmission I got. Are these parts good to go? Reply with quote

I bought a '74 IRS Transmission off a working beetle. The guy parted with it and now I hope to complete my auto to manual conversion. I prefer to not fix what isn't broken but I was hoping these parts can tell if they are good to go or if I should replace the parts just for arguement sake, since I am going to make an order.
1. The Throw out Bearing is labeled Mexico.
2. The nose cone bushing has these three triagle like indentions in it. Is this normal wear? Bit blurry pic.
3. Cross Shaft seems solid....
4. This one concerns me. Why are these areas plugged? Looks like old JB weld. What should I do to address this? Looks like stock holes that where filled in. I wonder why.....
I am a reluctant mechanic enjoying this DIY project so bear with my learning curve.

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wompninja
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd get a new throwout bearing. They are cheap and usually the main cause of tranny problems.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the fast reply. What do you think about the other parts? I hope I am not getting worked up about those fillings on the housing.
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the2ndcashboy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those holes in the side of the case would freak me out too. Do they look like something hit them or do they look like a clean cut?
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You see....... He talks in code and translation requires a priest, geologist, astronomer, biophysicist, and Indiana Jones.
modok wrote:
If anything comes out perfect it just means your measuring tools are substandard.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The two holes do not appear to be from some type of hit but they actually look clean and curve in smoothly as if they were put liked that from the factory. Two nice rounded shapes that is too perfectly placed to be a random hit. If it wasn't for the white filling, I would have thought nothing of it but for someone to put it in there, there has to be a reason. I guess I would need to see a pic of someone else's transaxle. I know someone here could adddress this.
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wompninja
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is what it should look like.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot to mention the holes are on the other side. The side facing the rear passenger tire. That side looks fine.
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turbo2go
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The holes you are talking about are cast in. The white filling APPEARS to be a mud dobbers nest.
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the2ndcashboy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

turbo2go wrote:
The holes you are talking about are cast in. The white filling APPEARS to be a mud dobbers nest.


Lol, yeah I forgot a couple of those ribs are different (they are a double narrow rib instead of one wide one). The holes don't go all the way into the trans right?
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SRP1 wrote:
You see....... He talks in code and translation requires a priest, geologist, astronomer, biophysicist, and Indiana Jones.
modok wrote:
If anything comes out perfect it just means your measuring tools are substandard.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure how far they go in.. I will check when I get back home.. I still hope someone will answer this.. Btw is the the nosecone intention normal and good to go?
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the2ndcashboy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, the nosecone bushing is fine. On the "holes" in the side, just scrape the white stuff off and see what you got. If there's no opening into the case, then your good to go.
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SRP1 wrote:
You see....... He talks in code and translation requires a priest, geologist, astronomer, biophysicist, and Indiana Jones.
modok wrote:
If anything comes out perfect it just means your measuring tools are substandard.
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turbo2go
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The stake marks on the nose cone bushing are to hold the seal in. Nothing to worry about. Add a new throwout bearing,change the gear oil and run it.
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rs58rag
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put a full weld where throwout bearing arms meet the cross shaft.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

turbo2go wrote:
The holes you are talking about are cast in. The white filling APPEARS to be a mud dobbers nest.


Man I feel like a real jack-ass. I got home and poke at it with my keys. It was two mud dobber nests and they did not enter the actual case. Just some cut out on the outside. Embarassed

I do not have access to a welder. You think the cross shaft should be changed/modified? How bout one of those heavy duty cross shafts?
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't ever buy the aftermarket HD cross shaft, they're junk.
If you are going to use a stock clutch, you're fine with leaving the cross shaft the way it is. If you're going with a stiffer clutch, you should weld the arms better.
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..... and like them better than Bosch.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproductdetail.php?keyword2=CFP0002&cartid=0222201221478601

I was considering ordering this one for the sake of argueement. All aftermarket HD cross shaft are junk, huh? I plan to leave it stock.

I think I will take my cross shaft and ask a local welder to tig weld it. Should it be welded on both sides of the arms?
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Bruce
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I refuse to install ill fitting aftermarket poorly made cross shafts in the gearboxes I build. They don't do anything better than the stock part that's fully welded.
gargamel wrote:
I think I will take my cross shaft and ask a local welder to tig weld it. Should it be welded on both sides of the arms?

You must remove it from the gearbox first.
Once you get it out, you need to sand off all the rust where the weld will go. Then get your buddy to TIG all around the joints. This makes it good enough for the strongest clutch you can find.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Bruce. The Bugmevideo really explains how to remove the shaft. I will just stick get mine welded.
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toddgsanford
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your doing an auto to manual conversion the shift rod for manual is slightly shorter/longer than the auto best to source one from a manual if you have not already. If your making an order get the shift rod bushings will make for a better feel to your shift.
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gargamel
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

toddgsanford wrote:
Your doing an auto to manual conversion the shift rod for manual is slightly shorter/longer than the auto best to source one from a manual if you have not already. If your making an order get the shift rod bushings will make for a better feel to your shift.


Really? well that sucks. another part to buy.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1492

Should also fit a '74 tranny? I can just buy it and call it a day....
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