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'56 Oval Baja Build with RGB's
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joescoolcustoms Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bossride wrote:
I also just dropped in today and read this thread from start to now... Really cool stuff. You are a multi-talented VW building machine and very inspirational...

I have a question... I like the front tires you had in the beginning... who makes those, and where did you get them?


The fronts are Nanco 7.00 X 15 LT. I bought them off of ebay, but that has been awhile back. I may have to change them due to age before I ever get to run them. If/when I replace them, I will go with the Yokohama.

http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires/detail/y742s
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bossride
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2011 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That Yokohama is a good looking tire, also...

For those who whine about making an Oval into a baja.... LOL.... I say that it's historically "correct" to do just that. It pays homage to the original version.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Hehehe.....
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 30, 2012 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been awhile, but I have gotten some things done on this '69 white baja.

I have done a lot of East Coast rust repair underneath to this body. The front lower pan head, rear cross member, rear rocker caps, rear package trey and re constructed the heat tubes that come from the heat exchangers into the interior. All PITA work that I do not enjoy.

So, now back to the actual build.

I pulled the front beam off the body to perform a classic 1/4 inch "cut-and-turn" to raise it up a little.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Next step is to clean the beam tubes and mark a straight line for reference to how much turn is put in the beam.

NOTE: I am doing this with the torsions and trailing arms attached to save time. I have already installed new ball joints, bearings, brakes and wheel cylinders, then decided to perform the cut and turn. This can be difficult because the beam torsions do have some pre-load on them and can make getting it back correctly difficult.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Next it is helpful to mark the place you intend to cut the beam. I use painters tape as a guide.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Then take a deep breath and cut the beam. If you do this without taking the beam apart, be careful not to cut deep into the beam tube and cut into the torsion leaves inside. I used a sawzall. Note that because the torsion leaves are pre loaded, the tube turned backwards as you can see from the lines that do not line up.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Now comes the challanging part, getting it back, straight and welded. I use a 3 foot pipe wrench to help me get it where I need it. A 3 foot wrench is not needed, but it does make it easier for me to twist, measure, line up the cut piece and weld by myself, all at once. A helper is nice for this.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So, the tube has to be turned at least back to the starting point and then an additional 1/4 inch and welded. You can now see the turn I put in the beam. I used the radiator clamp on one side straddled over the cut to get the tubes lined up while I am twisting with the pipe wrench, measuring and spot welding.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Next, just finish weld the cut and you are ready to go to the next tube.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The 1/4 inch turn is not set in stone. Some turn 3/8 inch, some 3/16 inch. But once you do it, it is done. Excluding pulling the beam from the car, the top tube took me about 45 minutes to cut, turn and weld back. This can be done on a Saturday with ease and get about 1 1/2 inch increase in height. Which allows for taller tires.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Process completed this evening for the lower tube. The reference marks show the 1/4 inch turn on both tubes.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great write up, makes it easy to understand. Do you grind down the weld after to keep it flush?
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 31, 2012 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thext94 wrote:
Great write up, makes it easy to understand. Do you grind down the weld after to keep it flush?


Thanks. I wrote it like that so in the future when someone asks what is a cut and turn, I can reference them to this.

I will grind it a little just to dress it up. The area that is welded does not touch the pan, so the weld does not have to be smooth.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 6:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i like the pipe wrench technique. getting the spindles back on after turning is a PITA. when you turn with the center piece does it stayed lined up pretty good with the rest of the beam? seems like the pressure would move the center down out of alingment.

did you remove the center grub bolt/nut before the process? i would not think you would but just not see it on the pictures.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
like the pipe wrench technique. getting the spindles back on after turning is a PITA. when you turn with the center piece does it stayed lined up pretty good with the rest of the beam? seems like the pressure would move the center down out of alingment.



Getting the spindles back on is a PITA after a cut and turn, that is one of the reasons I left them on. The other two reasons for leaving it together is I had not done it before and wanted to see if I could and the last reason is I am lazy.

Once cut, the tube stayed lined up fairly well just hanging there with no pressure. Lining it back up while twisting it does require a little finesse. Depending on how I used the pipe wrench, force applied wise, it would be close or way off. So how you pull/push on the pipe wrench makes a hugh difference. I added a radiator hose clamp on one side straddeling the cut and that made all the difference to get it lined up. I tacked one side, then removed the radiator clamp and tacked the other.

Quote:
did you remove the center grub bolt/nut before the process? i would not think you would but just not see it on the pictures.


Did not need to remove the center hub grub nut/screw. Since the beam is together, the only thing it does is to center the leaves in the beam side-to-side. It is not under pressure.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
[ I added a radiator hose clamp on one side straddeling the cut and that made all the difference to get it lined up. I tacked one side, then removed the radiator clamp and tacked the other.
.


do you think if a person put a piece of angle iron on the beam with a couple of hose clamps on the center section and then turned the center section and angle with the wrench then it would stayed lined up better?

example from my cut and turn but i did not have the spindles on and used clamps to hold then angle iron:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 01, 2012 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That is another good way pafree. I have used the angle technique before too.

It should also be noted to only cut one tube and weld it at a time. If both tubes are cut at the same time, it can be very difficult to line everything back up to keep the suspension beam straight.
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 22, 2012 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished off the front beam and it is ready to go back on. I welded the bumper on a litle better than the PO had done.

Before it goes back on, I will change out the Master Cylinder for a new TRW unit. That is the only old brake system part left. Now the complete brake system is new.

It is painted with rattle can Truck Bed Liner. Should last a little better than just paint.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I have set a goal date of March 17, 2012 to have this baja driving. That is the next get together of my VW club. I would like to drive it to the dinner.
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You can add me to the list of naysayers about building a baja out of an oval... Until I saw the amount of rust that you're dealing with. I have no doubt that would have ended up at the scrapper.

Awesome build with great period details. It's going to be "New, old school." the NOS Baja!
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 23, 2012 1:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are varied reactions to building a baja out of a Oval. Even with the fact that this body I started with was just days away from being cut up, I still get nasty PM's from people that cannot agree with the route I took with it. I am OK with it because once I am long gone, this body could still be returned back to a full body car in near stock condition, but not without me saving it from the sawsaw and scrap yard first.

Most every one I know in the VW community knows that I am building this '56 baja. One lady in our club has a beautiful, original paint '56 that is still 36 horse and 6 volt. The only thing changed is the tranny was updated to a tunnel type. We were at a show last summer in Columbus Ohio and she was having problems with the engine and had not driven it in 2 years (turned out to be dropping a valve). She was getting depressed about it. I have been know to hoard parts and VW's, and buy them on a whim. So I told her that if she was to ever decide to sell that oval, I would interested in it because it is so nice. Then I told her it would save me a lot of time in making a baja because I would not have to do any rust repair or paint.

She kicked me in the shin. And she knew I was joking.
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I meant it as a sincere compliment. You're a very talented fabricator and I'm really enjoying the build.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Joe, I'm just seeing your thread now and finished reading thru it. Awesome work!
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 25, 2012 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the props guys!

Just wish I was faster at it.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it back to roller status! It has been close to a year since it has been on jack stands.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Also put the engine in it for the first time. If memory serves correctly, it has not had a engine in it since Spring '10. The air cleaner hits the rear valance, so I will modify it to lower it down about 2 inches.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The engine in it is short lived though, it has to come back out. Something is not right with the tranny. Sucks. Just put in new tranny oil. I was trying to avoid building a tranny, but just may have to happen.

Anyway, now I can get a good feel for how it will set with some weight on the rear. I will pull the torsions and re-index them for a little more height.
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
Got it back to roller status! It has been close to a year since it has been on jack stands.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Also put the engine in it for the first time. If memory serves correctly, it has not had a engine in it since Spring '10. The air cleaner hits the rear valance, so I will modify it to lower it down about 2 inches.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The engine in it is short lived though, it has to come back out. Something is not right with the tranny. Sucks. Just put in new tranny oil. I was trying to avoid building a tranny, but just may have to happen.

Anyway, now I can get a good feel for how it will set with some weight on the rear. I will pull the torsions and re-index them for a little more height.


Looks good, but that aint an oval Laughing
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Looks good, but that aint an oval


Very observant Grasshopper.

It is in silent wait with a dust camouflage.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

joescoolcustoms wrote:
Thanks for the props guys!

Just wish I was faster at it.
lookin' good. Fast or right?, I'll take right everytime. Very Happy
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