Finally got a bus

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Sun Feb 19, 2012 7:09 pm Post subject:

so here's some pics, 37x32, ported, hd single springs, 12mm 3/4 plugs, CCd at 53cc
oil sump plate, external oil cooler and thermostat, urethane springplate bushings, kadrons, traction bar, gauge pod, s/s scat valve covers with the tabs inside, speaker pods, horsepower gauge, homemade headliners waitign to be covered in something nto sure yet, cleaned up sp manifolds.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Fri Feb 24, 2012 12:01 am Post subject:

so i got a call today from custom and commercial, they said the center of my stock 14x5 bus wheel was too small to use thier 14x6 hoop. not it'll cost 155 each wheel since he has to actually add a 1 inch thick band of steel to my rims, instead of 85 dollars to just cut out my center and put it in on of thier hoops.
just letting y'all know so you can tell them the size of yoru center before you send of the rims.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 7:32 pm Post subject:

here a pic of the AN6 fitting i put on my gas tank, all lines are 3/8ths the 5/16ths after the T fitting.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 12:40 am Post subject:

so i finally got the heads swapped and the engine back in.
first i want to say the kadron kit form kaddieshack is very nice, quality work, below are just my findings from the first time installing these.
i went to install the new Kadrons and came to the 1st problem:
the metal balance tube from the drivers singleport steel manifold requires the hose to be run under the doghouse, which may get in the way of the thermostat linkage. so i cut it about 2 inches shorter so i could route my breather hose above the doghouse. it this was a dual port aluminum manifold i could just use a 90deg fitting and it wouldnt be a problem.
2nd problem: i had to beat in the drivers side of my stock doghouse fanshroud about 2 inches so the carbs would open all the way.
3rd problem: the studs used to bolt the carbs to the manifolds seam about half and inch too short. i like to use locking washers if i'm not using the locking nuts, but the studs are too short for the washers. i bought actual bolts that work great on 3 of the spots, i will still have to use the short stud and 2 lock nuts on one.
last problem: barbed fittings suck so much, i bought the other kind so i could actually get my fuel line off without cutting it in the future.
this isnt meant to bad mouth kaddieshak, they did great work in a very timely manner. these are just my little nit-picky things.
i had to beat in my fan shroud for the weber ICTs also.
once its all in i'll take some pics. it should drive really nice with plenty of power with the heads and carbs upgrade.

i couldnt use the torsion bar covers, for a bug i guess since they are a little smaller, couldnt do the external cooler either because of no room, both are for sale now, my trans leak wasnt bad at a ll, still plenty of fluid, so i'll replace that seal when i mount my new widened stock wheels.

pics to come soon.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 10:23 pm Post subject:

here's a shot of the engine with the new heads and kadrons installed, runs so good. dual carbs may be a pain to set up, but once they are set its soooo worth it! runs so smooth, more power, the bigger intake valves and ported heads make a difference too. even changed how the exhaust sounds. love it.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

also installed a saftey star brake light, carpeted the rear shelf, installed the 14x6 inch wider rear wheels with 4in backspacing, no more spacers and they look great. custom and commercial charged me 155 each since the had to band them. the centers are too small for thier 14 inch hoops. gettign the front widened right now too, but with the stock back spacing.
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so with or without hubcaps?? i lost one...

Jeff Power · Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 8:18 am Post subject:

Gotta say I love this bus!

I really like how you've done all the work yourself and made this bus your own.

What kind of bikes are you riding? Ive been a long time roadie thats recently gotten into MTB'ing. Im not very good, but its fun. I get real sketched out on some the gnarlier stuff, but I'm learning to look past the obstacles and choose my line, commit and just roll through it. (good advice for life in general)

Love the Bus!!
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zuggbug · Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 1:08 pm Post subject:

Great job on the rear wheels.

can you explain the fuel line a little bit. I am tired of haveing to change fuel line every couple of years.
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kingodirtp3 · Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:09 pm Post subject:

i get the goodyear fuel injected stuff, lasts a long time. zuggbug

Jeff, i actually got a frame for 99 dollars from pricepoint, thier in house brand rakken. and one from performance bikes, there in house brand sette.
i had a 40lb beast hardtail that could handle anything when i was in japan riding those mountains, but riding here in monterey isnt what i built it for, so i sold it and built up a 28lb lightweight for riding here, its much nicer to ride. most bike frames are made in taiwan anyway, so the frame i got for 99 is just like some frames than go for 3 or 400, just doesnt have the big name on it. yea choosing a line is the key. i have a road bike too, steel surly frame with carbon FSA stuff on it.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 11:34 pm Post subject:

so the only place i found a rear swaybar for my bus is from addco, part number 952 for 120 dollars. i'm getting it because the camber compensator wont work with hd side plates which will be on my hp trans that i'm getting soon.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:25 pm Post subject:

so the family is away for a month, time to build a new engine. the 1776 i have now will be put aside for an extra.
i have a CB 76 craNK, Hbeam 5.5 rods,
AA 90.5b pistons
sp heads with 37x32 valves, ported and valve job by brothers, single hd springs, i need .50 deck height to get 8.5 CR, dont remember the CC of the heads right now.
webcam 163 on 105 lobe, thanks john@aircooled,
gene berg 26mm full flow oil pump,
kadrons from kaddieshak with 30 venturis.
the same kymco 1 3/8ths header/jtubes with custom 2inch exhaust and muffler.
mallory cdi box,
ngk d6ea plugs, maybe d8ea ( i have both sets, just not sure which to use and not sure about the hot/cold plug thing)
breather box,
2.3-3psi electric fuel pump,
Aircooled's SVDA distrubutor curved for the ICTs i had,
1.25 rockers,
aircooled's hd aluminum push rods,
windage pushrod tubes,
stock weight flywheel, i do have a l/w one too if needed,
kennedy stage 1 clutch.
taking all the rotating stufff to be sure it's balanced, i know most of it is supposed to be, i dont know where to get a scale i could use to just weight the pistons n rods myself.
scat doghouse 36hp fanshroud, getting a friend to put some extra welds on it,
hoover bit.

so whats everyones favorite break in oil, just cheap 30 weight?

also i was thinking of using 5w20 instead of the usual 10w30, what do y'all think?
i'll see what the oil pressure is on the new engine whith the dino oil. my current engien has almost 60psi at idle with 10w30.

so ...should i stick with the 8.5 CR?
i have 7.6-1 now and its running about 250-300 for temps using the same heads that i will be using on the new motor(yes when i got the heads back from brothers i couldn't wait, so i dropped the 1776 to switch heads, but my head temps went down 50-75 degrees)

and which plugs, hot or cold, d6ea or d8ea?

expected HP?

straight axle 4.12 67bus with 205/60/14 rear tires

thanks!!

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Wed May 02, 2012 11:20 am Post subject:

i have a bottle of the lucas oil break in additive that i was going to throw in with the 30w, should i get the non detergent 30w or the normal one?

the current engine is a 1776 with the new 37x32 singleport heads and kadrons with 30 venturis. i'll be building up the 1955 then take the 37x32 singleport heads and kadrons from the 1776 and putting them on the 1955.

i was thinking a 1 1/2in header would be better. i have 2in pipe to and from the 2in muffler. but with the exhaust valves being 32 would a 1 1/2 inch header be too much?

after break in i'll put 10w-30 in and see what the oil pressure is, if its still around 60 at idle i'll switch to 5w-20 and see hwo it feels. i tried 20w-50 once, engine felt sluggish.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 1:33 am Post subject:

here's the engine, 1955 singleport
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

163 webcam on 105 lobe center from aircooled,
1.25 rockers with lash caps from lowbugget
aluminum hd pushrods from aircooled set at .006
kadrons with 30mm venturis from kaddieshak, awesome
singleport haeds with 37x32 valves, valve job, ported from brothers vw
76 c/w crank from CB
5.5 h-beam rods from CB
90.5b AA pistons
.080 spacers
8.3 CR
full flow case with stock 8mm studs and case savers
SVDA from aircooled
1 3/8ths header from kymco
custom 2 in muffler (cherrybomb turbo oval for 20 dollars)
straight cut gears
racer spacer
scat linkage and fanshroud, fanshroud had some extra welds to keep things in place
hoover bit
3psi fuel pump from aircooled
mallory hyfire IV cdi with the right coil n rotor n wires
ngk d6ea 12mm 3/4 reach plugs
95amp alternator
breather box
jtubes

it isnt a screamer, but it has so much more torque than my 1776 wit hthe same heads n carbs.
it used to sound like a pissed off honda, now it sounds liek a pissed off subaru. no raspy sound, just a nice throaty rumble.
only had to clearance the cylinder hoels slightly for the rod bolts.

Jeff Power · Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:15 pm Post subject:

Sweet!!!
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Check out my basses here www.ellabasses.com

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Tue Jul 10, 2012 12:23 am Post subject:

i'll be installign a fuel pressure regulator and modifying my bump stops today.im running way too rich, excessive fuel pressure seems to be the problem.
i installed bigger tires in the back and went to raise the front to match and my upper torsion arm is hitting the bump stop when i have the car in the air, so gotta adjust the bump stop..
also looking for a job, just retired from the navy after 20 yrs, looking for mechanic, assistant, windows desktop support, hardware installer, contruction, assembler types of jobs.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 8:18 pm Post subject:

so i've been running 05w30 in my bus, royal purple. it seems to be too thin after 45 minutes ro so on the highway, got to 250 oil temp. heads were fine around 300. over the last couple weeks when i took a hard right hand turn at higher rpms the oil light would come on, never did it turning to the left.
i think my oil pressure sensor may be messed up, the light comes on when i turn the key like its suppossed to.
changed the oil today back to 10w30 rp, light came on then went off as the pressure rose. befroe it was around 20psi at idle and got up to 40 with throttle. the gauge is mechanical and located in the engine compartment.
now looks like it sits around 40 at idle and gets to 50 with rpms.
i'll drive it tomorrow and see if the light comes on again.
what do yall thuink?

RPGreg2600 · Posted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 9:59 pm Post subject:

I would run a thicker oil. 30wt, 15W40, 20W50.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 8:23 am Post subject:

10w30 is as thick as ill run, i tried 20w50 and the engine felt so sluggish, way too thick.

mandraks · Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:50 am Post subject:

why would a 20-50 oil be too thick? and why would the motor be sluggish?

I have been running 20-50 for decades, never felt like the motor was sluggish, even in hard german winters.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 10:22 pm Post subject:

20w-50 is for high power engines or for very hot climates. the oil was too thick, took too long to warm up, made the engine feel sluggish. when i put 10w30 back in it felt much better, got to operating temp quicker, my oil pressure went down to 20 at idle and 40 at higher rpms, much better that 60. it starts easier too with 10w30. i drove the bus today, oil light didnt come on, guess i fixed it, 5w30 is too thin.
if you've been running the same oil for decades then you havent tried a lighter oil, so you may just be used to the way yoru engine feels, if you tried 10w30 once you'll notice a difference, but if u live in a hot climate or go on long trips often then 20w50 might be perfect for you.
my mechanic used 20w50 too, but he goes over mountain passes and goes long distances often, he also goes to hot places, so its great for him.

kingodirtp3 · Posted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 11:58 pm Post subject:

bus has been great!
looking for stainless steel mirror clamps now, anyone know where to get them?

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Finally got a bus
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