VDO fuel guage

[Dave3d]

Hello everyone.

I had replaced all of my fuel guage components at one time.
The fuel guage (stock) worked for about 2 months, and then will only read full or empty, and now only reads full when I fill up, and will read empty 10-20 minutes later.

So, I want to bypass the wiggler (replaced 2x, and it just keeps going bad), and use a vdo fuel gauge.

I have been looking on cip1, and am a bit confused about which one to get.
There is the 0-90 ohm.
There is the 10-180 ohm.
There is the 33amp.
There is the 60amp.
Which one should I get for a stock setup?

Thanks.

[cletus_zuber]

Try these places before you get too crazy about throwing parts at it

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/fuel_ga.htm

http://www.midsouthvw.com/TechTips/tech_tip_FuelGauge.htm
_________________
72 Super

[Dave3d]

Thanks for the reply.
I actually do know about the senders and the vibrator (I call it wiggler, lol).

I am tired of having to constantly mess with the whole setup.
I already have a 3-hole gauge cluster setup.
And, I am going to be putting in a volt and ammeter anyway.
So, the third hole will be the fuel gauge.

I found this:
http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VDO-301-020

Which says it is fore the oem sender.
I just have to remember if it is an oem sender I bought way back when, or an aftermarket.
Sigh.

['69Custom]

Keep in mind that even if it is claims it is for an OEM sending unit, that doesn't mean it will read correctly unless the sending arm is able to pivot with the corresponding ohm range your new gauge requires to function properly.

I have a digital reproduction of the old Dehne gauge. It's nice and works well, despite the loss of the very convenient vibrator unit. However, even though they are allegedly compatible with stock sending units, it has never been possible with mine to adjust the arm in a way that gives the right swing action to meet the ohms range inside the tank. As a result, it isn't as accurate as it should be.

Have you checked for proper grounding on your current set up? I remember a thread here way back that broke down symptoms and cures for this. I believe yours was covered.
_________________
-Tim

1969 Frankenbug
1965 Ford Mustang
F-U-M-P!
~"I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken." ~The Boss
Please excuse any typos as my iPhone doesn't speak English very well. 

[Dave3d]

Well, I ordered the guage anyway, along with the ammeter and voltmeter.

I have to take the whole front end off the car (baja 1 piece) to even get to the wiring, so cant check the grounding or anything else until I get the front off.

I need to do all those gauges, plus the cig lighter, so will just wait to do them all at once.

I hope it works.
If it even goes between the empty and full, I will be able to get used to where its landing, and hopefully know when to fill up.
At least it wouldnt read empty 95% of the time.

[glutamodo]

['69Custom]

Here's the common test to narrow down your problem:

"to test your setup, ground your gauge wire to the metal fuel tank, if your gauge needle pegs full... then the gauge and wiring are working correct... its your sender that is bad and needs replacement."
_________________
-Tim

1969 Frankenbug
1965 Ford Mustang
F-U-M-P!
~"I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken." ~The Boss
Please excuse any typos as my iPhone doesn't speak English very well. 

[Dave3d]

Yeah, I think I jumped the gun on getting the vdo gas gauge.
I just took out the whole spedo assemble, and noticed that one of the screws on the wiggler was loose.

[cletus_zuber]

['69Custom]

These cars define learning experience, more than any other, it seems. We can do out homework, ask questions and feel as if we are walking into something educated and prepared, but it doesn't always work out that way.
_________________
-Tim

1969 Frankenbug
1965 Ford Mustang
F-U-M-P!
~"I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken." ~The Boss
Please excuse any typos as my iPhone doesn't speak English very well. 

[Dave3d]

Well, seems the gauge is only semi-working still.

Went from 7/8 full,when it was really probably 1/2, to empty (when it really was almost empty).
It fluctuated a LOT between empty and reserve when it got down to that actual (every 3 seconds the needle moved from empty to past reserve empty).

So, the gauge (or float) doesnt seem to work between Empty (with reserve left) and 7/8 full.


Grrrr

[glutamodo]

Yeah, sounds like the tank unit is getting flaky. Does the gauge "peg out" when you ground the wire to the sending unit, as mentioned before? If it's acting up with that wire grounded as well, the voltage stabilzer "vibrator" might be going bad.

-Andy

[Dave3d]

I dont know.
I havent had anybody around to be able to test that yet.

[Dave3d]

OK.
Just checked.
When grounded the gauge goes to 7/8 full.

[glutamodo]

Sounds like you may have more than one issue then - the guage itself can get "old and while they are adjustable internally, those are factory settings and it's not a good idea to mess with them. The "vibrator" might not be working as it should either. This link was posted before, and discusses those topics it in much more detail.

http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/fuel_ga.htm

It is possible that you might have to replace all three components, gauge, vibrator and sending unit, on this one. I've had to do that before.

[Dave3d]

Sigh.
The new vdo gauge is all over the place since last week.
Worked fine for 2 months.
It just keeps going from full to empty every 1/2 second.

So, the original doesnt work, and now the new vdo gauge doesnt work.
Is there ANY way to get a good working gas guage? Even if its from a chevy or whatever?

[dirtkeeper]

have you confirmed that the float is working.

there is a row of wires on the float that sends the signal and they often get broken or buggerd up and cause the symptoms your describe