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New valve or new LP tank
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sDeLuca
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:24 pm    Post subject: New valve or new LP tank Reply with quote

My wife went to fill up the propane on out van today and the drove home only to have the fire department knock on our door 20 minutes later to inform her that the tank was leaking. Sounds a lot like the story posted on the GW site about the auto stop fill valve. This is in fact is the problem.

My question is should I replace the faulty value and bleeder with the one Terry provides http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=426729

or

should I replace the entire tank, thus replacing the service valve and regulator in the process, as suggested by the aforementioned GW article.

I just wanted people's experiences and suggestions.
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presslab
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 3:44 pm    Post subject: Re: New valve or new LP tank Reply with quote

sDeLuca wrote:
My wife went to fill up the propane on out van today and the drove home only to have the fire department knock on our door 20 minutes later to inform her that the tank was leaking. Sounds a lot like the story posted on the GW site about the auto stop fill valve. This is in fact is the problem.

My question is should I replace the faulty value and bleeder with the one Terry provides http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=426729

or

should I replace the entire tank, thus replacing the service valve and regulator in the process, as suggested by the aforementioned GW article.

I just wanted people's experiences and suggestions.


I guess your neighbors didn't want to tell you directly so they called the fire department instead?

First, where is it leaking on the tank? If the fill monkey overfilled the tank it will leak from the over-pressure valve, the one near the knob. It will reset after the excess is bled off. If it leaks out of where the filler hose goes, then your fill valve is bad.

Is your tank in disrepair? If it's not all rusty, I'd say replace the valves. I bought these two valves for less than $20 and they work great.

http://www.helmarparts.com/product_p/7647sc.htm
http://www.helmarparts.com/product_p/3165c.htm
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:45 pm    Post subject: Re: New valve or new LP tank Reply with quote

It is easy enough to just replace the valves. I have done it on several tanks to get rid of the 'autoleaker' valves. I bought my valves from RV suppliers and on Ebay.

Mark


sDeLuca wrote:
My wife went to fill up the propane on out van today and the drove home only to have the fire department knock on our door 20 minutes later to inform her that the tank was leaking. Sounds a lot like the story posted on the GW site about the auto stop fill valve. This is in fact is the problem.

My question is should I replace the faulty value and bleeder with the one Terry provides ......or......should I replace the entire tank, thus replacing the service valve and regulator in the process, as suggested by the aforementioned GW article.
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islandjeeper
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had the auto stop valve, filled up with 3 gallons or so of fresh propane, only to have the valve leak out one of the vent holes from a bad oring. They would not let me leave and it took hours for it to all bleed out.

I purchased the fill and bleed valves from TK and they work great. Since I have several campers I needed more. I am not sure where you live but I found a local propane service place here in CO and they had the fill valve, bleeder, and regulator, all for good prices. I have also found the same bits at RV dealers and service places.

I almost spent the $300 plus on a new tank and found that if my tank was in good shape and not rusty, the valves were all I needed to make it nice again.

For the record, I have not had a good stock regulator that did not leak. I have been replaceing them with the ones from the RV store that are just like the ones on the new tanks. I was told by these guys that the covers do more harm than good because they make a place for the wasps to build.

So with a non rusty tank, it costs me about $53 to put new valves and regulator on. You will need a tubing cutter and flare tool to put the new regulator on, it is a bit longer.
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madspaniard
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced all the hardware in my tank as well, tank was sandblasted and powdercoated, I also installed a second tank on passenger side with a change-over regulator conecting both tanks
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sDeLuca
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like new valves and regulator. Thanks everyone. I think I will use this opportunity to add in the extend a stay for external hookup, since I will be re-flaring anyway.
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