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Split Huf steering lock - L. 719 010 - details
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eurodub
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:32 am    Post subject: Split Huf steering lock - L. 719 010 - details Reply with quote

Since most of the details regarding these are well spread on the pre53 section, but not in one thread, and since i started repairing stucked ones, i thought i'd open this. i will show you a completely opened up unit, telling anyone interested how to open up one without breaking anything.

first of all, today i got the second one and surprise... it's brown.
all i knew that most of them were black, or ivory. the nos one in the box is black, and the ivory one seems restored.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

now, the one i got is brown. aged, pitted, corroded, but the inside showing the internals is still brown, brown as well under the aluminum STOP/GARAGE/FAHRT bezel .

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

later this day i will post pics with an opened unit. any thoughts about this color?
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it possible that the brown one was a factory option, in which case they offered them in the matching color? I know a lot of later splits have the lock cage present on the steering wheel column from the factory.

I have only seen black ones so I don't know that ivory is correct.
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vw-vintage
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 6:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Idea ORIGINAL color Black Wink
see attached link

http://www.vw-vintage.com/accessoirestandard.php?page=2
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eurodub
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok then, so what's with the brown color? i can't find any trace of black on it. and seems like it was only painted once.

i will prepare a "restore your Huff" lesson in about some hours. i took the pics but have no time to elaborate now Smile
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not be so quick to say that they were all black.

All the ones I have seen have been black, but It would make sense to me that if one was ordered as a factory option, (assuming they were available as a factory option) that they would offer it it in the same color as the column.

It is possible that someone at some point took it completely apart, bead blasted it and painted it to match the car it was going into but I would want to do some more digging before I said that they were always black.

Only having it in black as an add on part makes sense. Only one part to stock. Black will go with any color scheme. If they had offered them in colors they would have had several different versions to stock.

I would feel confident in saying that they were all black if you bought it from the dealer as an add on part.

Whether or not they could be ordered from the factory color matched is the big question and I don't think can be answered either way at this point.

Do you have any history on the brown one?
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i remember that with semaphores it was the same:

replacements/spare parts were black
original in the car from factory =body color.

based on this assumption, i can only think that we can indeed have brown, ivory and black colored locks, as i know splits had ivory/brown steering tube..

by the way, the lock i have is also brown inside the lock cylinder area. the pin that held the lock in place was unharmed (see pics). i think these were painted somewhere outside factory, or at least assembled after being painted, thus all areas being painted ok.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If they were offered in the matching column colors they were probably painted at the supplier when they were manufactured. It would be easier to control the supply chain on the manufacturing side as to what colors they needed.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any evidence that the factory might have installed those as an option? I know they did some optional builds, but I have a hard time seeing them do that on the "line". Possible though.

The other question is did that lock 1) come with a whole new steering column rod with the slotted sleeve on it? or 2) come with just the sleeve and you have to take your rod out and install/weld the sleeve? or 3) did all rods of that era on it have that sleeve on them?

Curious as I have 2 of those locks, one is NOS. Both are black.
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splitvws
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had three of these over the years and they have all been black. I have seen afew in ivory but they were ones that had been restored so who knows what they started as. The brown one looks like it could have always been brown going from the pics showning the inside.
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
did all rods of that era on it have that sleeve on them?



the bin of steering columns in the center bottom of this picture seems to show all of them with the cage already attached.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

splitjunkie wrote:
johnshenry wrote:
did all rods of that era on it have that sleeve on them?



the bin of steering columns in the center bottom of this picture seems to show all of them with the cage already attached.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


No, I think that is the commutator brush for the horn circuit. The lock cage would be much closer to the splined end.

That pic is from the 40s too, don't think that lock went back that far....
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
splitjunkie wrote:
johnshenry wrote:
did all rods of that era on it have that sleeve on them?



the bin of steering columns in the center bottom of this picture seems to show all of them with the cage already attached.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


No, I think that is the commutator brush for the horn circuit. The lock cage would be much closer to the splined end.

That pic is from the 40s too, don't think that lock went back that far....

Isn't it amazing to see how rudimentary the assembly line was right after (?) WWII...and how "populated" it was by workers? Idea
How's that for labor productivity vs today's mechanized/robot-driven automated off-shored methods of mass production? Question
[Those are nowhere near Foxconn iPad assy line conditions]...Are they even in the same galaxy?? Question Wink
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:

That pic is from the 40s too, don't think that lock went back that far....


I think it does.
I know it as an often seen option in late 40s CCG cars.
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splitjunkie
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 5:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

johnshenry wrote:
splitjunkie wrote:
johnshenry wrote:
did all rods of that era on it have that sleeve on them?



the bin of steering columns in the center bottom of this picture seems to show all of them with the cage already attached.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


No, I think that is the commutator brush for the horn circuit. The lock cage would be much closer to the splined end.



In the voice of Ed McMahon... You are Incorrect Sir... Wink

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The commutator is down at the same height as the top rail of the bin.
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, so here's the dismantling process.

1. undo the 2 slotted bolts. use a sharp screwdriver to avoid damaging the slot. sometimes these get stuck. i used a portable drill with a screwdriver bit, using the torque settings. after a few attempts they broke loose.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

2. this is the electric contact setup: the inside bakelite piece pivots on a pin, providing contacts from BATT. to INSTR and ZUND. so, it provides electricity to start button/ignition and instrument panel. hints: please check under the triangular brass piece. there are 3 small springs. mines were corroded. to test that the contact piece is still ok, put it inside and gently press the cover. you should feel some spring resistance there. also some contact cleaner/fine grit sandpaper takes out the corrosion on contacts.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

3. now here's what's under the cover: the spring that pushes against the pin is easy to take out. first pic shows the contact in the ignition position. now you can move the EIN/AUS lever. the second shows the contact in stop position. now the EIN/AUS lever can't be moved.
HINT: do NOT try to rotate the lever in the lock position. you will break it. ask me how i know that. Crying or Very sad

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

4. you can see here how the inside piece moves. from left to right, and does not rotate. in the locked position the EIN/AUS vever will not move so it prevents starting the car. (well, is not easy to make a short on the back of the electricity panel Razz ) also the steering is locked in position as the steel pin in the front is inserted in the oval slots of the lock device on steering shaft.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

5. now to attack the lock cylinder. the aluminum bezel with STOP/GARAGE/FAHRT is just pressed there. with a small flat screwdriver tap the edges lightly and it will pop out.
in the "finger" casting there will be an aluminum rivet. you have 2 options. one is to drill deep and then remove the cylinder. as i later found out, the aluminum rivet just protects the slotted head of a small pointed bolt. carefully remove the aluminum rivet and with a small screwdriver undo the pointed bolt.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

6. here's how the lock cylinder sits inside: has an eccentric area that moves the inside piece from left to right.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

7. the inside piece has a small metal piece that holds the steel pin inside. if you get that part out, the front steel piece must come out. mine is still a bit stuck, moves only a few mm. that steel piece is spring loaded so it should come out easy

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

8. various pics: the key is a F profile, made by HUF. i think Beetlekey has some new units for sale , but on his website he said he can't have a key cut by code number. i am sure that if you just take out the lock cylinder to a decent locksmith he can cut a key for you based on present configuration.
you can also see the EIN/AUS lever that i broke, not knowing it was in the locked position. i'll have to think creative and make a hole inside to fit a threaded bolt, then use some strong adhesive. the metal that is made of would surely not withstand welding techniques.
also you can see a checklist of all the parts you need to have a functional Huf steering lock.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

this lock that was opened up for resto/learn purposes will be sold, i'll just keep the brown one for my split.
Have fun!
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 10:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

splitjunkie wrote:


In the voice of Ed McMahon... You are Incorrect Sir... Wink

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The commutator is down at the same height as the top rail of the bin.


Right your are, corrected I am.... Very Happy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just added one of these to my (John H's old) 11G
It was used and was black. It's brown now to match the rest of the interior accessories.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Thanks for the info. I need the proper key for a spare, and I'd like to detail it a bit better but was afraid to pull it apart without know what was inside.
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