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NuschoolAircool
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Joined: December 15, 2011
Posts: 90
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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 Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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| What about 1970 models and up. Is this basically the same? |
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dragsters for life
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2011
Posts: 1092
Location: MELBOURNE, type 3 contingent
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| Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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| NuschoolAircool wrote: | | What about 1970 models and up. Is this basically the same? |
the car in the videos is a 69, same as a 70 and up running gear (irs rear end)
just go for it you will find its a dream
before
after
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NuschoolAircool
Samba Member
Joined: December 15, 2011
Posts: 90
Location: Los Angeles, CA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:36 pm Post subject: |
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| I really like those wheels.... I am still curious how BBS RS wheels haven't been seen on any of these cars... Soon... |
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rays-64
Samba Member
Joined: April 02, 2010
Posts: 224
Location: corona, CA
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| Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:38 pm Post subject: |
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| dragsters for life wrote: | | NuschoolAircool wrote: | | What about 1970 models and up. Is this basically the same? |
the car in the videos is a 69, same as a 70 and up running gear (irs rear end)
just go for it you will find its a dream
before
after
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dragsters, nice car and rims, how much lower is the front from the back. what size tires and rims are you running |
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sharkskinman
Lateral Lunatic
Joined: April 26, 2006
Posts: 3848
Location: Deep In My Own Psyche
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| Posted: Sat Dec 17, 2011 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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the rear of an IRS is a good bit different in the fact it has 2 spring plate
i usually have to take the cross bar (name?) bolt to do it properly.
and i have to say this
the front is not as hard as taking all that stuff off to raise or lower
take the wheel off
undo and push the bolts from the other side
and put a jack under it
Just mark it and pull it
then if you cant move it by hand then use the jack to lift it up or let it down
its that simple
and you dont need to take any ball joint off
Just my method and i can turn 2 splines Up or Down on the front in 20 minutes and that includes taking off the wheel
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4/71 ~311 "Bettie" (F.I./Auto)
| Supaninja wrote: | | BTW none of us are "buggin" here, we roll something far superior to a bug |
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rays-64
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Joined: April 02, 2010
Posts: 224
Location: corona, CA
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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| This maybe a stupid question, but better safe than sorry. When lowering either the front or back is it best to work on side at a time (driver side then passenger side). Basically finish one side completly and then move to the other side. |
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Bobnotch
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Joined: July 06, 2003
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Location: Kimball, Mi
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dragsters for life
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2011
Posts: 1092
Location: MELBOURNE, type 3 contingent
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| Posted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 11:49 pm Post subject: |
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| rays-64 wrote: | | dragsters for life wrote: | | NuschoolAircool wrote: | | What about 1970 models and up. Is this basically the same? |
the car in the videos is a 69, same as a 70 and up running gear (irs rear end)
just go for it you will find its a dream
before
after
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dragsters, nice car and rims, how much lower is the front from the back. what size tires and rims are you running |
got her lower to the ground in the rear today
the wheels are 5.5x15 with a 42 offset
rear is down 2 outers, rolled the guards and running nankang 165s
the front is also two down but may go another as its lower in the rear now
running nankang 135s
no rubbing at all cut down front bump stops and think the rears need to go
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asesapie
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 397
Location: Spokane, WA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:01 am Post subject: |
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Ok so i took on lowering the rear of my car yesterday and when I measured the stock position with my angle finder it came up at about 20* and I've seen other numbers for stock position on the spring plate. So my question is are all stock positions the same or do they differ from car to car like I would think they do?
And the second thing is I am planning on only lowering the car I notch in the back so as not to go too low in the rear. But at 1 notch low in the rear the spring plate doesn't clear the shelf so how would I get the plate back above the shelf? Would I put the plate on as far as it will go then jack it up and push it in the rest of the way? Or?? |
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asesapie
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Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 397
Location: Spokane, WA
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| Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:08 pm Post subject: |
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| Anyone? I need to get this back together tomorrow morning. |
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turbomicrowaves
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Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1079
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| Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:42 pm Post subject: |
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| asesapie wrote: | | Anyone? I need to get this back together tomorrow morning. |
Depending on how much car the car has sustained. The suspension will normally sag a little after 40 or so years so yes it can differ from car to car. At the factory they would have been set the same, fastback/notchback settings were slightly different from squareback settings based on the load squarebacks were able to carry.
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'68 Sunroof Squareback
"There are no pieces"
OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's |
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turbomicrowaves
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1079
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| Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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| asesapie wrote: | Ok so i took on lowering the rear of my car yesterday and when I measured the stock position with my angle finder it came up at about 20* and I've seen other numbers for stock position on the spring plate. So my question is are all stock positions the same or do they differ from car to car like I would think they do?
And the second thing is I am planning on only lowering the car I notch in the back so as not to go too low in the rear. But at 1 notch low in the rear the spring plate doesn't clear the shelf so how would I get the plate back above the shelf? Would I put the plate on as far as it will go then jack it up and push it in the rest of the way? Or?? |
I have found that it's easiest to set the spring plate and the desired degree and then use long bolts to tighten the spring plate cover. As you tighten the cover, use a jack to lift the arm until it is above the shelf. Once the torsion arm is above the shelf, tighten the torsion cover with the original bolts then lower the jack. The spring plate should rest on the shelf at that point.
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'68 Sunroof Squareback
"There are no pieces"
OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's |
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hoss
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Joined: May 01, 2003
Posts: 717
Location: San Jose, CA
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turbomicrowaves
Samba Member
Joined: February 25, 2007
Posts: 1079
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| Posted: Wed Feb 29, 2012 11:05 pm Post subject: |
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| hoss wrote: | | Added this thread to the Type 3 Wiki. |
Are you sure you want to do that? Tram may be upset.
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'68 Sunroof Squareback
"There are no pieces"
OCT3 - Orange County Type 3's |
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hoss
Samba Member
Joined: May 01, 2003
Posts: 717
Location: San Jose, CA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 1:06 am Post subject: |
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| turbomicrowaves wrote: | | hoss wrote: | | Added this thread to the Type 3 Wiki. |
Are you sure you want to do that? Tram may be upset. |
LOL. 
This is good info for the Type 3 community! Plus, Tram actually hasn't done anything for the wiki so far!
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Jacin
'60 Double Cab | '62 Notchback
Type 3 Registry - http://www.type3registry.com • Type 3 Wiki - http://www.type3wiki.com • The 1500 Club - http://www.vw1500.com |
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 12415
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:05 am Post subject: |
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| asesapie wrote: | Ok so i took on lowering the rear of my car yesterday and when I measured the stock position with my angle finder it came up at about 20* and I've seen other numbers for stock position on the spring plate. So my question is are all stock positions the same or do they differ from car to car like I would think they do?
And the second thing is I am planning on only lowering the car I notch in the back so as not to go too low in the rear. But at 1 notch low in the rear the spring plate doesn't clear the shelf so how would I get the plate back above the shelf? Would I put the plate on as far as it will go then jack it up and push it in the rest of the way? Or?? |
When I raised my '67 I had to double wrap a tow chain around my upper bump stop and floor jack to keep the body from lifting. Put the jack on a length of 2X6, so you can slide it in/out while it's under tension. Be careful! 
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http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,71,71,71 AT,72,72 AT Parts
56 & 57 oval ragtop $2,500 |
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asesapie
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 397
Location: Spokane, WA
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| Posted: Thu Mar 01, 2012 8:44 pm Post subject: |
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So I got the rear end taken care of. Lowered it just 1 notch so that it didn't go too low but just a slightly lower stance. I'm only at 1 notch in the front right now too so I think I'm going to take that down one more notch to make it a little more level and not look like the back is sagging more than the front.
Thanks for the help with the tips on the rear lowering guys |
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asesapie
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 397
Location: Spokane, WA
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| Posted: Mon Mar 05, 2012 8:48 pm Post subject: |
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here she is lowered 1 in the rear and 2 in the front. i think she looks pretty good now. excuse the poor pic
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Mike Fisher
Samba Member
Joined: January 30, 2006
Posts: 12415
Location: Eugene, OR
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| Posted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 9:14 am Post subject: |
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That looks good! You really shouldn't go down more splines. What size tires now? You could go shorter or staggered tires if you have the Urge.
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http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,71,71,71 AT,72,72 AT Parts
56 & 57 oval ragtop $2,500 |
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asesapie
Samba Member
Joined: March 07, 2005
Posts: 397
Location: Spokane, WA
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| Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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| I'm running 135's up front and 185/65's in the rear. Yeah I like the stance now. I think any lower and it won't be easy getting in and out of parking lots around here. |
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