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Need help with drive flange replacement
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:56 pm    Post subject: Need help with drive flange replacement Reply with quote

Alright, so today I pulled off the stock type 1 drive flanges off my transmission. I have aftermarket flanges for 100mm cv joints that I want to put in.

Here is the problem. The type 1 flanges have a square lip machined into the back of them on which a thin wavy sheet metal disk was press fitted on that covers the inner transmission seal. I popped that metal disk off to see what was up.

My aftermarket flanges have a radius which obviously does not hold the sheet metal disk.

What do I do? Do I just insert the aftermarket flanges, pop on the retaining c-clip, and tap in the drive flange center cover seal? Or...do I have to do something with that metal disk?
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not sure if its ok for the rubber seal to be exposed...

Help me out guys, I would really appreciate it.
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 5:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You do not use the disk, and in an offroad car you also do not use the rubber coated disk(cap)
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you very much!

Quote:
in an offroad car you also do not use the rubber coated disk(cap)


Why not? What do you use instead?
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In an offroad car the axle will hit the cap, knocking a hole in it, leaking oil out. Seal the flange to the stub axle with silicone, then after snapring is in fill the cavity (where the cap used to go) with silicone, let it harden all the way.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hmm never heard that one,better clean it all real good with breakleen,but keep it off the seal.I do know th cr axles are "floating"to an extent.
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jsturtlebuggy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2012 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Yes replacing the stock flange cap with silicone works great with aftermarket axles that float.
Years ago when they came out with flange caps made of urethane I tried them. Taking the axles out to inspect CV's on the race car the caps were gone. Had been ground up inside the CV joints.
After that started using the silicone and have never had a problem with leaking.
Floating axle will hit the cups at times and you need to use a 3 corner file on axle splines to get CV's off.
SwayAway did start rounding the end of the axles which helps with less filing. Other axles that have square edge can be rounded off some.
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jsturtlebuggy wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Yes replacing the stock flange cap with silicone works great with aftermarket axles that float.
Years ago when they came out with flange caps made of urethane I tried them. Taking the axles out to inspect CV's on the race car the caps were gone. Had been ground up inside the CV joints.
After that started using the silicone and have never had a problem with leaking.
Floating axle will hit the cups at times and you need to use a 3 corner file on axle splines to get CV's off.
SwayAway did start rounding the end of the axles which helps with less filing. Other axles that have square edge can be rounded off some.

I fill that entire area up, that way when the axle hits it, it does not damage the end of the axle. Also I use ultra grey as it seems to be firmer when cured
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you guys for all the replies.

So, what if I am not using axles that float in the cv joints? can I still use the it, or will they still bang into the cap?
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

In a TRUE offroad situation, even stock axles will hit the caps. There is nothing wrong with sealing flanges with rtv, even in a stock application, other than appearence. And after the axle is on you can,t see it anyway.I build more class 11 trans than probably anyone and they are all like that.
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Vanapplebomb
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the help dude.
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Dougy Dee
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Permatex has a Gear Oil RTV out. It is a drier, more viscous compound that the gear oil doesn't attack like the regular, pick your colour, RTV's.

P/N 31872

My local FLAPS was able to locate it after I called Permatex direct to confirm it was available in Canada. I'm sure it's available in US as well...
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mcmscott
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2012 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I worked for Ford we used the grey on all diff covers with no gasket, if it's good enough for all the factories on gear oil apps then it's good enough for me. Also I have been doing it this way since 02 when I started my business with 0 problems on probably 500 to 1000 trans. However good tip to know
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