Header to heat exchanger connection

[finatick]

Installing a new header and single quiet pack on a 1600 stock DP motor.

On the connection where the header slips into the heat exchanger, where does the doughnut clamp/seal locate? Does half go around the header and the other half around the exchanger? Also is it a good to use some high heat silcone on the connection.

[busdaddy]

The cone washer and donut go on the HE pipe first, then when the muff is in position slide the donut and cone up against the muff and clamp it with the clamp. The taper on the edge of the muffler pipe and the come washer squeeze inwards on the donut as you tighten the clamp, be careful to get everything in the clamp before tightening.

Yes, copper color high heat RTV is excellent for this connection.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

[volksterii]

Everything that busdaddy states, just make sure when you use the clamps, one side of the clamp is slightly larger than the other. The larger side should be on the muffler side as that diameter is bigger. Otherwise it will leak in short order.
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71 Westy Hardtop, 1915
2005 Touareg V8 air susp.

[finatick]

Thanks for the info. One more question. I noticed that the heat riser tubes are not drilled through on the header. Should I drill these out or just leave as is?

[busdaddy]

Depends, if you're running a single carb then yes, drill them and file them out as large as possible, you need to heat the manifold and the flow from those headers is weak. If you have dual carbs there's no risers to attach to them and you'll have a big exhaust leak.
Ream out the riser tube under the manifold with a length of clutch cable or similar braided steel cable from the hardware store (use a drill motor and wear gloves and eye protection), now's the time and you want it free of carbon and rust.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

[finatick]

[busdaddy]

Nope, just the muffler.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

[SGKent]

on a type 4, I found that red high temp RTV sealed up better. The copper stayed gooey and soft whereas the red was still flexible but firm.
_________________
Steve aka Merlin the Wrench

formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.

bdamico on GF wrote

[finatick]

Well got the header on and the quiet pack on . Is it common to have to re adjust the carb when changing from stock exhaust to a header and quiet pack? Seems as though it takes longer to warm up in the mornings now. I have to feather the gas to keep it running when coming to a stop or it will stall till its warm. After it"s warm it runs good. Possibly just a choke adjustment? Valves have been adjusted.

[busdaddy]

Possibly, did you drill out the preheat fittings in the new header? do the preheat tubes under the manifold get really hot after a minute or two?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Wanted, 68-73 westy OG plaid curtains, singles OK.

[finatick]

[Lionhart94010]

Just an FYI, even if you drill out the heat risers on the headers, your heat riser will still not work properly; in a stock design (Original VW OEM) one side of the heat riser is Hi Pressure = close to exhaust valve, and the other should be Low Pressure into muffler… otherwise not much hot gas pass through the tube as it just bounces back and forth if the two sides are connected next to the exhaust port on #2 & #4 (Thanks to Bob Hoover for that bit of common scene insight)

It’s a shame that no header MFG I know of has taken the time to build a properly working exhaust system for T2 with T1 Power & center mount carb…
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Current VWs 71 T2 Westy SO-72/6(Miami), 71 Crew Cab, 72 KG GT;0) 12 JSW TDI
Other owned VW’s 59, 68 1500s, 69 & 71 Bug’s; 72 & 73 S-Bug’s; 67 Westy, 67 Deluxe, Other 71 DC
VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm

[robjarman]

just picked up this thread as searching for advice on whether it matters to fit a LH heat riser hotspot exhaust or RH to a stock 1600 TP single carb - which way should the exhaust gas flow through the heat riser? from LH to RH or v.v.?

cheers
Rob

[SGKent]

actually on a header style system the pulses create high pressure on one side then the other so the flow is back and forth, albeit weaker than a stock system.
_________________
Steve aka Merlin the Wrench

formerly Steve's Racing and Engine Blueprinting. Wrenching since 1967.

bdamico on GF wrote

[Lionhart94010]

Re: " which way should the exhaust gas flow through the heat riser? from LH to RH or v.v.?"

It makes no difference, the key is one side needs to be high pressure the other low pressure... the ones that you find on most headers with both heat riser ports near the head on #2&4 do not work worth beans, due to the pulses rather than as with the stock setups which creates flow... which is what is needed for the stock system to work properly...

It 's simple to see if the heat riser is working properly, if it is; it buns off any paint you put on it ;0)
_________________
Current VWs 71 T2 Westy SO-72/6(Miami), 71 Crew Cab, 72 KG GT;0) 12 JSW TDI
Other owned VW’s 59, 68 1500s, 69 & 71 Bug’s; 72 & 73 S-Bug’s; 67 Westy, 67 Deluxe, Other 71 DC
VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm

[robjarman]

thanks for your help with that - all works fine - and went back to the original Bob Hoover blog on the subject following your tip-off - best read I've had for a long time
cheers
Rob