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Idle adjust on 34-PICT-3
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joshgold10
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like a great tool to have. I'll have to save for that one though.

So my research tells me that the H30/31 will not work well with the DVDA I have or any DVDA's it seems.

Maybe for now, I will put my new 009 in the 1600DP with the H30/31 and wait and buy a rebuilt German 34 pict 3.on

Can always keep the bocar for emergency road replacement.

Other option is thread lock the idle jet and retune carb using idle drop method to compensate for the idle jet being cracked?

The H30 009 combo seems best for now.
Would be nice to know how lean or rich it is actually running.
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ccpalmer Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 10, 2012 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any DVDA can become a SVDA by disconnecting the vacuum retard, leaving the retard nipple on the can unplugged and plugging the vacuum retard nipple on the carb.
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joshgold10
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 11, 2012 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well today I took the 009 and H30/31 carb (that was jetted for an 009) off my other 1600DP and put onto my 1600DP which now lives in my 72 Bus. I also swapped exhausts. Bus had an aftermarket exhaust and heater boxes.

I took Jtubes and bugpack exhaust of my other 1600DP and installed on bus.

It runs great! No flat spot, good power, no intermittent backfire on decel.

Timed the 009 to 30BTDC at 3000rpm and did not even touch the carb.

It's like a new bus. Eventually I will have to get a german 34 pict 3 and install that with my dvda and see how that goes. But for now it's a driver again!

Thanks for all the advice here. Really invaluable stuff.

Josh
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spicolibus
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How does the Air/Fuel Gauge work ? I was looking at the connections on that video but have no clue how you would power it on and use it... Embarassed
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 12, 2012 7:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spicolibus FYI,
http://cbperformance.com/pdf/PLX%20DM-6.pdf

1. you need to connect the O2 Sensor to the PLX unit(plug-in connector from O2 cable on one end and screw it in the other end(O2 sensor) in the bung you had welded into your exhaust pipe

2. then you connect the 4ft power wire with 2.1mm connector to the PLX (the other end you connect to any 12V ground and 12V+ source.

3. then you connect the gauge with 10' cable to PLX and gauge

then start it up and see what your carb is doing...
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ccpalmer Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 7:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionhart94010 wrote:
spicolibus FYI,
http://cbperformance.com/pdf/PLX%20DM-6.pdf

1. you need to connect the O2 Sensor to the PLX unit(plug-in connector from O2 cable on one end and screw it in the other end(O2 sensor) in the bung you had welded into your exhaust pipe

2. then you connect the 4ft power wire with 2.1mm connector to the PLX (the other end you connect to any 12V ground and 12V+ source.

3. then you connect the gauge with 10' cable to PLX and gauge

then start it up and see what your carb is doing...


Man I want one...
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For PLX installation I recommend double checking the cable lengths to make sure it will work for your application...

with a little digging I found the info below on the PLX forum, it would be wise to ask questions to make sure you can put the gauge where you want it ;0)

DM-6 Multi Gauge and Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Sensor Module Combo

PLX Direct Price: $199.99
http://www.plxdevices.com/wideband.php

Includes:

SM-AFR main unit
• Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband sensor
• O2 sensor harness 10ft
• 4ft power wire with 2.1mm connector
• 4ft Analog wires and connector with 4 terminals
• 1ft Serial Cable
• Termination jumper
• User Manual

DM-6 2 1/16" (52 mm) Gauge
• 4 Pin connector for SM-AFR connectivity
• 2 Terminals for 4 pin Connector
• 3 Wire 8 V. Power Converter
• 3.5 mm Y Splitter
• 6" M/F Extension Serial Cable
• User Manual

http://www.plxdevices.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11...gth#p10752

Daisy Chain Cable Length
The upper limit is around 14 feet for the TX-to-RX data cables. , the TX/Rx cable is a standard 3.5mm stereo audio cable.

O2 sensor harness 10ft

Yes you can extend the o2 sensor harness wire. That’s not a problem and it will not affect the readings. Make sure you use same gauge size or thicker wire if you're doing that.

Please verify all data for yourself ;0)
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spicolibus
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have to have the "bung" in the tailpipe or can you connect the oxygen sensor to the end of the tailpipe Question Shocked
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes the O2 sensor needs to have a bung welded in, you can get the weld in parts for about $8 then take your car down to a muffler shop and have them weld it in for $20-30…

On my stock T2 bus muffler with the one exhaust pipe I put the bung in the muffler on top about one inch back towards the front, right in front of where it goes out to the exhaust pipe.

On a header I would put the bung in where the 4 pipes merge…

The stock exhaust pipe is sufficiently long so that there shouldn't be any reversion (fresh air pulses being sucked in) that would cause inaccurate O2 sensor readings…


Welded in Bung
http://www.google.com/#q=O2+sensor+bung&hl=en&...mp;bih=753
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spicolibus
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The PO put a bug exhaust on my 71' bus (I think it would be from a bug - it has two pipes out the back)?
Where would you have it welded on something like that ?
thanks for the info by the way
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 11:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ccpalmer wrote:
A current theory about the idle jet issue is that the jets and/or port that the jets screw into get warped from over-tightening of the idle jet. Unscrewing the idle jet seems to solve this every time.

Here is as photo I took of a lot of idle jets I have; you can somewhat see that the upper parts of the jets are different sizes, thus they can't all be getting a good seal.

Going to a larger idle jet size never seems to cure the problem; only unscrewing the jet does.


The placement of the holes in all of those jets is irrelevant. The damage occurs at the beveled edge at the end of the jet, that edge gouges into the carb pot metal. The hole in the end of the jet is the only calibrated hole.

The "seal" aspect here is mostly important for the electromagnetic cut-off crowd, if you don't want to damage your pistons with dieseling, this contact area must shut off the gas at ignition-off.

Those others just open into a virtual plenum.

There is a seal aspect along the threads that can indeed cause leaning out of the mixture because atmospheric air can enter here. Some cut-off jets have a cup washer and rubber seal to prevent this.

Unscrewing the jet a little richens it because gas is now allowed to dump in. An effective quick 'n dirty trick that cures nothing but gets you home.
Colin
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david_594
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionhart94010 wrote:

On my stock T2 bus muffler with the one exhaust pipe I put the bung in the muffler on top about one inch back towards the front, right in front of where it goes out to the exhaust pipe.


Here is where I placed mine:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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spicolibus
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Unscrewing the jet a little richens it because gas is now allowed to dump in. An effective quick 'n dirty trick that cures nothing but gets you home.


Colin,
I agree with your logic. When I got my carb from Keith it ran fine with the pilot jet screwed all the way in. Took carb off, blew everything out, cleaned it up (this is only after about 30-50 miles), then backed out the pilot jet which helped a bit but didn't cure the problem; still dying on deceleration. Haven't found any vacuum leaks. My next step is to remove the fuel tank and have it reconditioned since no one sells new tanks for the year of my bus (that I can find). What is the Cure Question
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

david_594, IMHO, that is too close to the exit and you may have some reversion at low rpm? It may also affect exhaust gas flow as it may block part of the exhaust pipe?

spicolibus, RE: “The PO put a bug exhaust on my 71' bus (I think it would be from a bug - it has two pipes out the back)?”

The PO was not too smart, that setup has the potential of getting exhaust gases into the bus, and it won’t give you optimum low end torque as the long single one would…

if you have a stock engine, IMO you should get a T2 exhaust system for your bus.

You have to believe that when VW designed the exhaust system for the T2 bus they knew what they were doing, they would not have made the change if it weren’t for sound reasons as it cost them more to have/make/stock different parts, if the bug one worked for the T1 powered T2 buses they would have used it…

Also the stock Carb Jets in a T2 bus are setup for the T2 exhaust, OEM Engine are designed with optimized system(intake, Exhaust, ignition...): changing parts in one system may(almost always) affect how other systems work...
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You may be right about that Lionhart but I have bigger problems than exhaust at the moment; like a rusty gas tank.
Also, whether you believe John Muir or not, he states in his Idiot's book to put the bug exhaust on the bus because "you get more power". I don't have the book in front of me for actual quote but I remember reading that Dancing
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spicolibus; John Muir and his” Idiot's Guide” Was not that highly regarded by Bob Hoover etc., your comment confirms his opinion to me about John Muir ;0)

There is a lot of misinformation out there, and is one of the biggest hurdle in keeping T1 & T2 ACVW alive…
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionhart94010 wrote:
david_594, IMHO, that is too close to the exit and you may have some reversion at low rpm? It may also affect exhaust gas flow as it may block part of the exhaust pipe?


I wasn't too worried about reversion since I am after the muffler. The O2 sensor also minimally obstructs the exhaust path and mine plan was really only to use it for tuning purposes. So once I'm happy with how its running, I'll pull the setup, and just put the plug back in the bung.
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:39 pm    Post subject: 1967 BUG Reply with quote

i recently rebuild a 1776cc engine with a single 34 pic carb, when i take it to the street top speed is no more than 55mph. can some one help why this is going on?
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:52 pm    Post subject: Re: 1967 BUG Reply with quote

jose from salinas wrote:
i recently rebuild a 1776cc engine with a single 34 pic carb, when i take it to the street top speed is no more than 55mph. can some one help why this is going on?


You are know this is thread about idling issues. From your description your Bus is probably running too lean above 3000 rpm.

You'll need to inspect the main jet to see what size it is. If it is a 127.5, then try the a 130 main. If you need to go to a 132.5 main - then keep an eye on the condition of the spark plugs.

- Andrew in Austin, TX -
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:57 pm    Post subject: Re: 1967 BUG Reply with quote

jose from salinas wrote:
i recently rebuild a 1776cc engine with a single 34 pic carb, when i take it to the street top speed is no more than 55mph. can some one help why this is going on?

Welcome.
This is really more of a question for it's own thread in the engine/performance forum because it sounds like it idles fine but.......
How's your throttle cable adjusted? what compression ratio did you set?, where's the timing set?, what exhaust? What does it do when it reaches top speed?
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